Table for three: Bistro 22
Businesses often complain about road construction at their entrances, but in one case, something good came from a season of watching backhoes and asphalt rollers.
That something is Bistro 22 in Lake Zurich.
A stretch of Route 22 through Lake County was torn up for what seems like forever, prompting the chef and manager to rename Bistro Kirkou, which sits at the corner of said route and Ela Road, for the new pavement.
The name change was also prompted by the departure of partner and namesake Kirk Pepper, who left the business because of a medical condition.
The name has been changed and the menu has been tweaked (more entree salads and options for lighter appetites, for example), but you'll still find chef Marc Montagna at the stove cooking up impeccable French-inspired cuisine and manager Kent Voss holding down the front of the house.
The restaurant buzzed with life on a recent Friday night (thankfully not from the vibration of earth-moving equipment), with diners even reserving the coveted corner spot at the bar at which to enjoy a light supper and glass from the well-managed wine list.
Let's find out what our crew thought of Bistro 22.
Sarah Mawhorr
Age: 40
Hometown: Schaumburg
What I ordered: Beef bourguignon encroute ($8); asparagus soup ($3); cedar-planked Atlantic salmon ($18), ambrosia chocolate cake ($7)
Taste and presentation: The beef bourguignon, mopping the sauce up with the puff pastry, that was my favorite. The salmon in the tomato-based sauce was very flavorful. The Chardonnay was the perfect complement. The cake was warm and yummy.
Atmosphere and service: It was a very relaxing atmosphere, you can take your time.
Good if you want … good food and wine at good prices. I was impressed with the level of service and the quality that you get for the price. The Spanish Tempranillo was an excellent wine for $6 a glass.
Karen Korteling
Age: 43
Hometown: Palatine
What I ordered: Prince Edward Island steamed mussels ($7), salade de cresson ($7), duo of bourbon-glazed wild striped sea bass and spicy tiger shrimp ($28); trio of crème brulee ($5.50)
Taste and presentation: I thought the mussels were wonderful -- tender, sweet and tasty. The sauce was so good sopped up with crusty bread. I could've eaten them as a meal.
The salad greens and dressing went well with the nuts and tangy blue cheese, and the raspberry vinaigrette was a nice twist. The meaty texture of the sea bass went well with the couscous, and the bourbon glaze had a sweetness that complemented the fish and the shrimp, but the saffron in the sauce was a little strong. The crème brulee was yummy, especially the vanilla; the flavor was not overpowering but just right.
Atmosphere and service: The service was fine; we were attended to and not rushed. I never felt like we were looking for them. … I was a bit overwhelmed with all the utensils.
Good if you want … French but not teeny tiny French. It's French food without the French portion size.
Michael Burdick
Age: 40
Hometown: Schaumburg
What I ordered: Warmed aged goat cheese appetizer ($7), lobster bisque ($3), bourbon-glazed pork tenderloin ($24).
Taste and presentation: I liked the contrast of flavors. The foie gras contrasted nicely with the goat cheese.
The bisque had a dense consistency; I like the mouthfeel, it was akin to good hot chocolate. I expected more from the pork. I was looking for something with a spicy-Creole kick, but the flavor was more mild.
Atmosphere and service: I liked that the seating was on different levels; it lent to the intimacy. You were only seated near maybe 15 other people. The service was really good. I think with a group of four or more it's kind of hard to time the interval when one course ends and another begins. I think they did a really good job.
Good if you want … a reasonable value and a semi-intimate evening.
Bistro 22
500 Ela Road, Lake Zurich, (847) 438-0200, bistro-22.com
Cuisine: Casual contemporary French
Hours: Dinner starting at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 4 p.m. Sunday
Also: Major credit cards accepted; reservations; full bar