The canned chickpeas in your pantry belong in these Trinidadian flatbreads
I tasted Trinidadian doubles for the first time a few months ago, and I was so taken by the dish that I can now divide my life into before and after the experience. (Don’t ask how it took me so long as a lifelong resident of New York City, where doubles can be found in many neighborhoods, especially in Brooklyn and Queens.) The popular street food — an irresistibly fragrant simmer of curried chickpeas wrapped in two lightly fried flatbreads called bara — reflects the culinary influence of the many Trinidadians with Indian ancestry.
It’s called doubles because it’s served with two bara, but the version I tried at Bar Manje, a Caribbean restaurant in New York from chef Kingsley John, was presented taco-style, with the alluring filling cradled in a single flaky flatbread. They’re an appetizer on the menu there, but I would happily have made a meal of them, which is why I came up with this shortcut version and have been making them for dinner at home ever since.
To create a doubles-ish experience in a weeknight-friendly way, I use a couple of handy shortcuts: canned chickpeas and store-bought flatbreads.
Simply simmer the chickpeas with sautéed onion, garlic, hot chile pepper (as much or as little as you like), curry powder, cumin and cilantro for about 20 minutes, mashing the chickpeas a bit, until you get a sumptuously saucy stew. Then warm some mini naan or pita (ideally whole-wheat) in an oiled skillet until they are soft and lightly browned. Pile the chickpea mixture on top of each piece of bread, then add a cooling garnish of shredded cucumber and fresh cilantro. You’ll wind up with a bold, tasty and healthy meal that’s as fun to eat as it is easy to prepare. If you are anything like me, once you try it, you’ll be making it again and again.
• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian nutritionist and cookbook author who hosts public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good Food.” Learn more at elliekrieger.com.
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Chickpea Curry Flatbreads (Shortcut Trinidadian Doubles)
One (12-ounce) cucumber
¼ cup neutral oil, such as avocado or canola, divided
1 large yellow onion (10 ounces), diced (2 cups)
4 large garlic cloves, minced
½ Scotch bonnet or habanero chile pepper, finely diced
2 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
Two (15-ounce) cans no-salt-added chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves, divided
1½ cups water
8 mini naan or mini pitas, preferably whole-wheat
On the large holes of a box grater, grate about half (6 ounces) of the cucumber into a small bowl to yield about ½ cup. (Reserve the remaining cucumber for another use.)
In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and chile pepper, and cook for 30 seconds more. Stir in the curry powder, cumin, salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds more.
Add the chickpeas, 1 tablespoon of the cilantro, and the water, and bring to boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally and mashing the chickpeas a bit with the back of a spoon, until the chickpeas are very soft and the mixture is saucy, about 20 minutes. Taste and season with additional salt and black pepper, if desired. Transfer the chickpeas to a medium bowl, and wipe the skillet clean.
Return the clean skillet to medium-high heat, and heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Place 4 pieces of the naan into the pan and cook until golden brown and warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and the remaining bread.
Place 2 pieces of bread on each plate. Scoop about ½ cup of the chickpea mixture onto each piece of bread, then top each with 1 tablespoon of the grated cucumber and a scant 1 teaspoon of cilantro, and serve.
Servings: 4 (makes 8 flatbreads)
Total time: 1 hour
Storage: Refrigerate the chickpea curry for up to 4 days.
Substitutions: Don’t like heat? Reduce or omit the chile pepper. Gluten-free? Use gluten-free pita or naan, or serve over rice. For cilantro, use parsley. For canned chickpeas, use home-cooked chickpeas. For yellow onion, use white or red onion.
Nutritional facts per serving (2 flatbreads and about 1 cup curry), using whole-wheat mini pitas: Calories: 603, Fat: 19 g, Saturated Fat: 2 g, Carbohydrates: 89 g, Sodium: 957 mg, Cholesterol: 0 mg, Protein: 22 g, Fiber: 14 g, Sugar: 11 g.
— Ellie Krieger