Gnocchi mac and cheese shows what American cheese can really do

In the past year or so, there has been a trend on social media of creators in the beauty and wellness space listing all the “unsexy” products they use that produce great results. These are not the trendy items you curate and proudly display on your bathroom counter or makeup vanity, the jewel-toned perfume bottles and half-your-rent face serums. They are the tried-and-true workhorses that, although not glamorous, get the job done. Think thick hand creams, dry shampoo and teeth-whitening strips.

The food world equivalent to these “unsexy” products that actually work? American cheese.

A lot of people love to hate American cheese, turning their noses up at the processed product. But, as food writer J. Kenji López-Alt points out at Serious Eats, all cheeses are processed in one way or another, and the ingredients used in American cheese make it ideal for melting and emulsifying. No, it’s not all-purpose, and I don’t recommend it for your next cheese board. But when you need a melty slice on a burger or a batch of queso that stays smooth and clump-free? American cheese is the one you should pick up every time.

It’s also the key to this Gnocchi Mac and Cheese, a playful and innovative twist on a classic from food writer Ben Weiner. In this one-pan recipe, the combination of the starch from shelf-stable or refrigerated gnocchi and the emulsifying powers of American cheese allows you to skip the roux (and multiple dirty pots and pans) but keep the luscious, creamy sauce that is the hallmark of a great macaroni and cheese.

The process begins with a bit of grating, but rest assured that this is the most labor-intensive step of the 30-minute recipe. The medley of cheeses is carefully chosen to achieve richness and depth. Sharp cheddar cheese provides the comforting mac-and-cheese flavor that we know and love, Parmesan adds nutty dimension, and low-moisture mozzarella creates “almost absurd” cheese pulls, Weiner says.

Although the cheeses in this blend are delicious, Liz Bomze from America’s Test Kitchen says they’re “poor melters.” What American cheese contributes to the bunch is sodium citrate, an emulsifying salt that helps cheese melt smoothly. According to Bomze, it’s the secret to the creamiest mac and cheese, and it’s especially useful in one-pot dishes like this one.

Once the prep work is done, the dish comes together quickly, so it’s helpful to use a mise-en-place approach and set out your prepped ingredients before you start cooking. In a 10-inch skillet, the foundation of the sauce is created by simmering whole milk with salt, paprika, mustard powder, chili powder, nutmeg and garlic powder for extra-flavorful oomph. After a couple of minutes, the gnocchi are tossed in and stirred until heated through.

The magic happens when the skillet is taken off the heat and the American cheese is added. The potato starch joins forces with the emulsifying qualities of the cheese, and the sauce transforms, thickening into a lush, velvety dream that coats and clings to the gnocchi. From there, heavy cream and the first half of the grated cheese are stirred into the mixture, seamlessly melting in the residual heat.

Once everything is well incorporated, you should resist the inevitable urge to immediately dig in. The final touches are added by scattering the other half of the grated cheese over the skillet, letting it get bubbly and brown under the broiler, and serving with parsley or chives. If you’ve been an American cheese skeptic until now, I think one bite of this decadent dinner will make you a believer.

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Gnocchi Mac and Cheese

4¼ ounces sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated (1½ cups)

4 ounces low-moisture whole or part-skim mozzarella cheese, shredded (1 cup)

½ cup (2 ounces) finely grated parmesan cheese

1¼ cups whole milk

½ teaspoon fine salt

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon mustard powder

¼ teaspoon chili powder

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

1 (16- to 18-ounce) package shelf-stable or refrigerated potato gnocchi

3½ ounces (1 cup) shredded American cheese*

¼ cup heavy cream

Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves or chives, for serving

Position a rack to 5 or 6 inches from the broiling element, and preheat the broiler to HIGH.

In a medium bowl, stir together the cheddar, mozzarella and Parmesan until well combined.

In a 10-inch broiler-safe skillet over medium-high heat, bring the milk to a simmer. Add the salt, paprika, mustard powder, chili powder, nutmeg and garlic powder, and cook, whisking constantly, until well incorporated, about 2 minutes.

Gently drop in the gnocchi, distributing them evenly throughout the milk mixture. (Some overlap is okay.) Stir to coat and cook, stirring frequently, until the gnocchi are heated through, about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, but leave the skillet on the burner.

Add the American cheese, stirring until it melts and slightly thickens the sauce, followed by the heavy cream and half of the cheddar mixture. Stir, letting the cheese gradually incorporate as it melts in the residual heat.

Scatter the remaining cheddar mixture over the top, and place the skillet under the broiler for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese is golden brown and bubbling. Let cool for 1 to 2 minutes, garnish with parsley or chives, and serve.

4 to 6 servings (makes about 4 cups).

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 2 days. To reheat, bring a small amount of milk to a simmer in a broiler-safe skillet and gently add the leftover gnocchi, stirring to incorporate. Transfer to the broiler, and broil on HIGH until hot and bubbly, 2 to 4 minutes.

*Notes: The American cheese is critical here to help emulsify the sauce. Where to buy: Unsliced blocks of American cheese can be found at the supermarket deli counter; ask the attendant to slice you off about a 4-ounce chunk.

Substitutions: For cheddar cheese, use Swiss or Gruyère. For Parmesan, use Manchego, queso fresco or pecorino Romano. For mozzarella, use provolone or Chihuahua cheese.

Nutrition | Per serving (⅔ cup, using part-skim mozzarella), based on 6: 451 calories, 38g carbohydrates, 85mg cholesterol, 23g fat, 3g fiber, 22g protein, 13g saturated fat, 1227mg sodium, 6g sugar

— Ben Weiner