Typical Charmoula Marinade

2 teaspoons cumin seed, preferably Moroccan

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves (tender stems may be included)

3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons sweet paprika, or more to taste

¼ teaspoon whole white or black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon mildly hot red pepper or a pinch of cayenne pepper, or more to taste

Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon (about ¼ cup; may substitute the rinsed pulp from 1 preserved lemon)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste

Water, optional

Combine the cumin, garlic, salt, cilantro, parsley, paprika, the white or black peppercorns, red or cayenne pepper, lemon juice and oil in the bowl of a mortar and pestle (preferably a large one; or do this in batches). Grind until well incorporated and the herbs are finely chopped. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Use right away, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week. To use: Scrape the mixture into a small saucepan. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons of water and heat slowly over medium heat, stirring constantly until well incorporated and fragrant. Do not let it come to a boil. Cool to room temperature before serving.

Makes about cup (enough to marinate 3 pounds of fish or enough sauce for 4 to 6 servings).

Cook's note: You can use a blender or a mortar and pestle here, but the latter yields a better texture — and a bit of aromatherapy in the kitchen.

Nutrition values per tablespoon: 60 calories, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 3 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 0 protein, 0 cholesterol, 440 mg sodium.

Adapted from Paula Wolfert's “The Food of Morocco” (Ecco, 2011)