Roasted Cardamom, Oregano and Garlic Chicken Thighs

¼ cup whole green cardamom pods or 1-2 tablespoons whole black cardamom seeds out of the pods

2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon kosher salt

¼ cup fresh or dry oregano

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

4-6 large skin-on, bone-in pastured chicken thighs

Freshly ground black pepper

Select a shallow pan that will hold the thighs closely in one layer, such as a quarter sheet pan, cast-iron lasagna pan or frying pan, or gratin dish.

Using a mortar and pestle, or a heavy resealable plastic bag and the back of a cast-iron frying pan, pound the cardamom pods until they split. Discard the husks, and bruise the tiny black seeds by pounding them a little to release their oils. Add the garlic, salt and oregano, and bash away a bit more to make a rough paste. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, then stir in the olive oil to thin the paste.

Arrange the thighs, flesh side up, in the pan, and massage half the paste onto the flesh; turn them over and do the same on the skin side with the remaining paste. Allow the meat to marinate, covered and refrigerated, for at least 4 hours or overnight before bringing it back to room temperature. Grind black pepper over the thighs.

Heat the oven to 450 degrees, and set a rack at the top of the oven, just under the heating element (although you are not broiling, this exposes the skin to more heat for crispness). When the oven is good and hot, roast the chicken for 45 minutes, turning the meat over halfway through the cooking.

When done, the skin should be beautifully crisp and the flesh completely cooked through. Pour off the fat in the pan, and arrange the pieces on a serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature with rice.

Serves four.

“Good Meat” by Deborah Krasner (2010 Stewart, Tabori & Chang)