Fish fry that started chef on road to Pappadeaux

When he was a kid, David Jarvis and his family traveled across the border from Amherst, N.Y. to Niagara Falls, Canada, to attend a fish fry. The memory is clear in his mind.

"You walked by the cook and he had this huge fryer, battering and frying cod. So simple but really good."

It shouldn't be surprising that today Jarvis, 51, works daily with fish in his position as research and development chef for Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen in Arlington Heights and Westmont.

After getting a culinary degree from Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island he worked at the venerable Le Francais in Wheeling under chef Jean Banchet. He also put in time at four-star kitchens in Dallas and Los Angeles before returning to the Midwest and opening up his own restaurant, Melange in Wilmette, then Northfield. Before joining Pappadeaux in 2008, he worked at Tramonto's Steak and Seafood in Wheeling.

What was your first restaurant job? I was a dishwasher at a mob-owned dinner club - oh the stories - I only did that for three months, then worked at a restaurant owned by an Italian/American family. I was there for three years, in high school. I started as a dishwasher, then worked my way up to become a cook helper.

Who do you consider your mentors? My most powerful influences are Jean Banchet and Wolfgang Puck. They were so different; Banchet brought perfection through repetition, and through meticulous examination of detail. Puck worked in a free-form style, with more tweaking, and more of a focus on the natural ingredient. That style is symbolic of L.A. cuisine today.

The list of respected chefs could go on forever: Charlie Trotter, Rick Bayless, Rick Tramonto and that's just my age bracket locally. I wouldn't want to disrespect all the great talent out there.

Can you recall any memorable meals, either that you've served or that you've eaten? My 40th birthday at Charlie Trotter's was a special, memorable dinner. Obviously that was one that I ate, rather than served. I also had a dinner at Mosimann's in London, and he treated me so well at his private dinner club in the 1990s. I also had dinner at Moto (Chicago) shortly after it opened.

What is your culinary philosophy? I believe in using seasonal, fresh ingredients, and showcasing them through perfect detail, proper seasoning and clean presentation. When using seasonal ingredients, it's also important to look locally - you will find the freshest, best-tasting ingredients in your own backyard.

What are your favorite ingredients and how do you use them? I don't have one favorite item. It really depends on my mood and the time of the year. For me, summer, obviously, means more grilling, and really bringing out the best qualities of seasonal ingredients.

Fall/winter means heartier, comfort food - more roasts, stews and confits.

Then spring comes around, and it's a rebirth. You get to use fresh ingredients that you may not have been able to enjoy all winter. Spring brings a shift back toward grilling.

What is your favorite piece of kitchen equipment? I have lots of favorites. The tops are a vita-prep mixer, immersion blender and vacuum machine. You can use all three for lots of different cuisines, and they can really be utilized on a variety of dishes.

What three items are staples in your home kitchen? I always have mustard, sherry vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. All three have endless uses, no matter what cuisine or dish you cook. Simple flavors from those ingredients can drastically improve the taste and quality of a dish.

Any favorite cookbooks or TV cooking shows? Thomas Keller's books are detailed and inspirational, so I always keep those around. Of course, books from Michel Bras and Alain Ducasse are favorites. I'm not really into reality shows, but "Top Chef" (on Bravo) is entertaining. I appreciate that it brings competition into cooking, and sheds a light on how intense it can be. It's nice to see another side of cooking on television, rather than the same old traditional demos all day long.

What do you do in your free time? My house is a constant project that I love working on. I spend as much time as I can with my family. Lastly, I dream about food - I dream up new creations that I can make, and use ingredients in new, innovative ways.

Tell us about this recipe: Halibut Picatta With Zucchini Ribbons. Halibut is a warm weather, seasonal fish, and it's fished under well-controlled circumstances to allow for sustainability and renewal. At-home cooks can make this with their own adjustments, such as grilling and roasting. Also, as the season changes, you can rotate the vegetables served with the dish.

As we move into fresh corn season, I'd recommend serving it with fresh ears grown right here in Illinois. Also, the butter sauce can be replaced with a fruit vinaigrette, fruit vinegar or extra virgin olive oil. It can also be served with my personal favorite, corn puree and summer truffles.

Try it at home or at Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen, 798 W. Algonquin Road, Arlington Heights,(847) 228-9551 or 921 Pasquinelli Drive, Westmont, (630) 455-9846.

• If you have a favorite chef you'd like to see profiled, send the chef's name, restaurant and contact information to food@dailyherald.com.

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