Bloomingdale's Shiraz on the Water makes a splash
Sometimes bad things happen to good people.
Case in point, a waitress on a recent Saturday night at Shiraz on the Water in Bloomingdale.
Our waitress had been friendly, attentive and helpful and, then, crash! She stumbled from the smooth stone floor of the lounge to the plush midnight carpet, and Corona bottles headed for a couple seated by the window smashed to the ground splattering beer and glass on three women diners.
I was one of those women.
After realizing that no one got hurt, only wet, my next thought was "Why?" Not "why" as in "why me?" But why, in a restaurant that has more than 1,000 different types of wine from around the globe, would someone order a Corona?
That's something sommelier Eoin O'Donnell stumbles over himself as he attempts to educate West suburban diners. Formerly sommelier at the tony NoMi on Chicago's Mag Mile, O'Donnell has assembled an impressive collection of wines which can be ordered by the glass, by the bottle or in flights (tastings of three labels). He says suburban diners are becoming more adventurous and willing to try new wines when they're priced well. His selection entices budding eoniphiles, with most by-the-glass wines priced between $7 to $10.
You certainly don't want to be drinking Corona as you sink your teeth into chef Chad Brodkin's filet mignon. Broiled to perfection, this top-quality, grass-fed beef was hands-down the most tender, well-seasoned, well-cooked steak I've enjoyed in ages, especially when paired with a 2003 Tufo Blu Barbera. The 8-ounce size was more than enough for me, though I could see those with bigger appetites wanting a larger portion. All of the steaks, from sirloin to porterhouse, come with your choice of toppings: blue cheese or horseradish crust, Bordelaise or béarnaise sauce or sauteed mushrooms.
Besides steaks, Brodkin's menu includes a roasted organic chicken breast sitting atop creamy, cheddary polenta and shrimp swimming in a lemony butter sauce with tomatoes, artichokes and asparagus. The chicken breast was on the small side (I guess that's to be expected when you don't get meat from a feed-controlled bird), but the shrimp portion was quite ample.
Rewinding to the appetizers, Tallgrass beef also is available as mini burgers (quite the dining rage these days) with red onion marmalade. We succumbed to the temptation of the chicken fondue, but were befuddled by what arrived. No skewers, no flames. Shredded chicken and cheeses mingled in a warm pot with various fresh breads for dipping. While it was filling, the flavors fell flat.
The duck confit flautas, on the other hand, delivered intense flavor with the mesquite-smoked meat, roasted corn and piquant tomatillo salsa.
Duck shows up again on the salad menu, served with smoked cheddar and pickled cactus dressing, but we tried the house salad, a fine pile of greens, veggies and dressing, and the tomato and mozzarella plate, perked up with fresh basil and aged balsamic vinegar. The Gruyere-topped onion soup satisfied for certain, but would have been more welcome if the chicken fondue hadn't come first.
Our desserts came gratis - manager Bryan Blinstrup's offer after the service misstep (pun intended) - and didn't disappoint. Smooth passion fruit crème brûlée and hearty warm banana and raisin-studded bread pudding didn't dry my dinner companion's shirt, but certainly pleased our palates.
The restaurant has its own entrance at Indian Lakes Resort, a longtime destination for golfers that has been made over by Hilton. A scaled-down Shiraz menu is available at the hotel's nightclub.
Shiraz on the Water
Facts: 250 W. Schick Road, Bloomingdale at Indian Lakes Resort, (630) 671-5013
Cuisine: Globally influenced American
Setting: Modern, neon-brushed room overlooking the lakes
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Saturday; brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday
Price range: Appetizers: $7 to $14; entrees $18 to $38; desserts $4 to $6; wines by the glass $6 to $14
Accepts: Major credit cards, reservations