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Beer-mapping the 'burbs

Seven brewpubs, 10 hours: Not a bad run for a day's worth of pub-crawl bliss. In the end, though, we only hit about half of all suburban pubs that make their own beer on-site. Less than half if we look beyond Chicago's immediate 'burbs. Wow. We had no idea local brewing was this popular.

Our mission was simple: create a comprehensive map of suburban microbrews that provides a snapshot of the area's craft beer culture. We assembled a trio of beer lovers, affectionately labeled them the Brew Crew and monitored their journey as they visited as many local microbrews and brewpubs in suburban Chicago as could reasonably be reached in a day. Oh, and they tasted the beer, too.

As director of such shenanigans, I took the designator driver's seat for the day and chauffeured our crew between brewpubs. (Needless to say that as a craft-beer fan myself, it was a rough 10 hours.) We only visited "local brewpubs," which means all pubs had to be founded in the 'burbs and most importantly, they needed to make their own beer.

By 11 that night, we were overwhelmed by the hospitality and creativity of our own suburban brewpubs. Here's the course of action the Brew Crew took on its way to enlightenment.

Two Brothers Brewery and Tap House

30W315 Calumet Ave., Warrenville, (630) 393-BEER, www.twobrosbrew.com

Recently relocated into an old gymnastics studio in Warrenville's industrial district after 12 years in business, owners Jason and Jim Ebel significantly expanded their brewery and opened a much requested (by fans, home brewers and staffers alike) tap house and grill. Their months-old brewpub butts right up to the brewery, so no one gets left out come tour time. Be warned, though: The Tap House is stealthily hidden in an industrial-sized building behind minimal signage. Follow the Two Brothers trucks to find the entrance. It'll be the one packed with beer groupies.

Microbrews: Year-round: Domaine DuPage, The Bitter End, Prairie Path Ale, Ebel's Weiss ($4); Seasonal: Cane & Ebel, Monarch Wit Beer, Live Ale ($5)

Brewery tour: 1 p.m. every Saturday. Get there early; the tour fills up quickly.

Where's the brewery? In a separate room behind the Tap House.

Designated driver's tip: Try the homemade root beer! Besides its alcoholic creations, Two Brothers serves up creamy cinnamon root beer that smells shockingly like the spawn of Big Red and A&W. Rumor has it they're devising plans for cream soda as well.

Food: An array of burger variations, sandwiches and scrumptious sweet-potato fries accompany a whole list of other brewery's bottled craft beers on the menu.

Wouldn't have guessed it! Did you know that all of Two Brothers' beers are technically vegan? It's true! And here's a tip for all of you self-starting home brewers out there: Tour guru Gabe Nanni says that, in the name of good will among brewers, Two Brothers will hand over recipes for any beer they currently produce. Of course new beer recipes for brews still being worked on by the Ebel brothers are so hush-hush that not even Nanni knows about them.

Brew Crew comment card: "I've had Two Brothers beer at other bars, but it was much different at the brewery. The Live Ale beer, that's the cast-conditioned one, it's … something that gets down to the roots of microbrew. It seems like they have their roots in the right place for beer." -- Chris Frye

Walter Payton's Roundhouse: America's Brewing Company

205 N. Broadway, Aurora, (630) 892-0034, www.walterpaytonsroundhouse.com

"Sweetness" stats and Bears chants aside, Walter Payton's literally round entertainment complex boasts the kind of award-winning microbrew chops that rank among the Midwest's slickest craft breweries. Housed in an old train depot that Walter Payton scooped up in 1995 with a 10-spot, newbies to Payton culture should expect the beer to be omnipresent throughout the Roundhouse's multifaceted restaurant/rock-venue/comedy-club/cognac-bar empire.

Microbrews: Year-round: Walter Payton Pilsner, Walter Payton Pilsner Light, Amber Ale, Honey Wheat, Chocolate Beer, Coffee Stout; Seasonal: Hair of the Monks Brown Ale

Brewery tour: Available upon request. Call to set up an appointment.

Where's the brewery? Just inside the brewpub's doors, next to the Walter Payton gift shop/museum and down the hall from the bathrooms.

Designated driver's tip: More homemade root beer for soda pop fans! Payton's makes Roundhouse Root Beer right on-site.

Food: On par with Payton's microbrew accolades, America's Brewpub dishes up a fine selection of lobster, jambalaya, double-cut pork chops, burgers on rye, and a slew of creative slaws and salads.

Wouldn't have guessed it! The famed "pizza beer" that Payton's tested out on tap last year survives as a bottled "thin-crust" version served at the bar. P.S. All microbrews are available in half-gallon growlers, kegs and pony kegs.

Brew Crew comment card: "It's a real lively place in the summer. There's just so much to do there. The Chocolate Beer was like (football's) gadget play. It looked like he poured a Miller Light, but when you smelled it, it had very strong chocolate notes." -- Kristin Kittoe

Brass Restaurant & Brewery

105 Hollywood Blvd., South Barrington, (847) 765-1200, www.brassrestaurantandbrewery.com

As one of the suburbs' quintessential brewpubs that values its beer as much as its food, Brass Brewery manages to keep its upscale restaurant and classy bar separate but equal. Nearly five years on the Barrington brewing scene, the fancy-dining side of Brass doesn't conflict with the dark-walled pub, where its handcrafted brews reign supreme. Beer groupies won't want to miss out on the microbrew flight, which includes "tastes" of both standard and diverse seasonal beer options. No wonder Brass describes its selection as "fine fresh beer."

Microbrews: Year-round: Full Throttle Amber Ale, Anticipation Pale Ale, Weissguy Hefewiezen, Blowhard Light; Seasonal: Nut Brown Ale, Marzen-Amber Lager

Brewery tour: Though no regular tours are scheduled, head brewer Anthony Carollo says he's happy to show people around if requested.

Where's the brewery? Contrary to other local brewpubs that showcase their shiny beer tanks in open view, Brass tucks away its beer equipment in an area outside of its pub. We spied evidence of the brewery, though: Several large bags of ingredients were stored in the hall just outside of the pub.

Designated driver's tip: The next time you see a movie (AMC South Barrington, anyone?), bring in your stub and Brass promises to give you a free appetizer.

Food: The delicious smells wafting over from the restaurant are also available in the bar. Go ahead and order up ahi tuna, tomato caprese, sliders, chicken paninis and sea scallops.

Wouldn't have guessed it! It's actually more accurate to call Brass a brewpub than a microbrew. Unlike traditional microbrews like Two Brothers, which distribute their beer to local pubs and beer sellers, Brass only serves its beer on-site and in growlers to go.

Brew Crew comment card: "The pale ale had a very unique flavor. I can't even identify what it was. It had a unique background flavor." -- Chris Frye

The Wild Onion Pub & Brewery

22221 Pepper Road, Lake Barrington, (847) 381-7308, www.onionpub.com

The calming effect of this heavily wood-laden brewpub sucked us in right away. Not only was The Wild Onion's wood-rafter decor distinctly reminiscent of the North Woods, but its beer matched the rusticity of a family-owned pub that strives to connect with the local community and the community's history. The fact that one of the staffers was holding his wedding reception there when we stopped by only added to the friendly, homegrown vibe of the place.

Microbrews: Year-round: Paddy Pale Ale, Amber Ale, Golden Lager, Jack Stout

Brewery tour: By request, though don't hesitate about asking at the bar.

Where's the brewery? Out of sight, but not out of mind. The brewery is kept in an uber-clean room separate from the bar.

Designated driver's tip: Try the root beer. By far one of the creamiest this designated driver has tasted, The Wild Onion's homemade suds made beer almost seem second-rate.

Food: Creative caprese and walnut salads, as well as open-faced meatloaf sammies, vegetable paninis and "onion cheesecake" reflected The Onion's down-to-earth roots. And, of course, the pub's own craft beer was only part of their full-on beer selection.

Wouldn't have guessed it! The name Onion Pub is actually the owners' tribute to a regional Potawatomi tribe called "Che-Cau-Gua," meaning "stinking onion" or "wild onion." Coincidentally, that's also how Chicago reportedly got its name. All together now: Che-Cau-Gua!

Brew Crew comment card: "It's like a big log cabin (with) a big fireplace; everything's wood. I love the environment; it's old-school. It makes me want to drink. … I accidentally finished mine." -- Greg Walker

M.T. Barrels Restaurant & Brewery

98 W. Main St., West Dundee, (847) 426-4030, www.mtbarrels.com

Per its prohibition theme (or anti-prohibition, as it may be), M.T. Barrels' craft beer lives at the forefront of this brand-new pub's master plan. Located in the heart of downtown West Dundee just a block from Emmett's Tavern & Brewing Company, M.T. Barrel's glistening beer tanks greet newbie patrons immediately, leading them into a fairly sparse but well-patronized pub area that's closely watched by Al Capone's ominous portrait across from the bar. Stay for dinner or throw back a brew and split; M.T. Barrels feels laid-back and open for anything.

Microbrews: Year-round: American Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, German Style Hefeweizen, Czech Style Pilsner; Seasonal: Irish Red, house Porter

Brewery tour: Call ahead. Ask for brewmasters Mike or Frank.

Where's the brewery? Downstairs; watch your step.

Designated driver's tip: M.T. Barrels hosts its first annual music fest this weekend, featuring a lineup that's sure to successfully kick off summer -- even if you don't have a beer in your hand. P.S. M.T. Barrels offers a "bread pudding of the day" and Giant Cookie Sundae for those craving dessert.

Food: Chic American fare takes precedence here and features such culinary delights as oysters Rockefeller, pancetta-wrapped shrimp, parmesan-crusted chicken breast and Alaskan halibut.

Wouldn't have guessed it! This tidbit is truly prohibition-esque during Illinois' own anti-smoking era: M.T. Barrels' third floor boasts a 180-square-foot humidor and cigar bar where stogie connoisseurs can light up after dinner or with a drink.

Brew Crew comment card: "The porter has a very heavy smoked flavor to it. It's very good. The smoked flavor is much stronger than any other flavor." -- Chris Frye

Emmett's Tavern & Brewing Company

128 W. Main St., West Dundee, (847) 428-4500, www.emmettstavern.com

Want a meal to impress your friends with, plus a microbrew on the side? Emmett's should be on your short list of upscale brewpubs for future double-date dilemmas. Upscale enough for your choosiest foodie friends but down-to-earth enough to satisfy the group's beer snob, Emmett's takes as much pride in its food and beer as it does in its constant interaction with Dundee residents (hit up Emmett's keg-tapping events when St. Paddy's Day rolls around again next year).

Microbrews: Year-round: Seventh Inning American Wheat, 1 A.M. Ale, Victory Pale Ale, Mccarthy Red Ale, Irish Stout; Seasonal: Munich Light.

Brewery tour: Emmett's offers quarterly beer tastings and subsequent brew tours, detailing Emmett's signature beer-making process. Call to make reservations for the next tasting.

Designated driver's tip: At this point of the night, when everyone's too tipsy to hold a conversation, Emmett's saves the day with a colorful array of board games. Reach for the classics, dear sober soldiers: Monopoly, Scattergories, Clue, Sorry and Balderdash. We chose Candy Land.

Food: Signature appetizers like Wisconsin cheese curds, baked pretzel twists, and Brewmaster Platter grapes and cheeses perfectly filled the void when mid-pub-crawl munchies kicked in.

Wouldn't have guessed it! Want beer with a kick? Emmett's has officially released its Brewmaster Reserve, beer with 10 percent alcohol content that's only sold in bottles. This stuff is so potent it can last for two years.

Brew Crew comment card: "It's almost like the restaurant is first and the microbrew is second. I'd think of coming here for the food before the beer. All the appetizers were really good." -- Kristin Kittoe

Lunar Brewing Company

54 St. Charles Road, Villa Park, (630) 530-2077, www.lunarbrewingcompany.com

Judging by the "Real women don't drink light beer" sign on the ladies room door, Lunar Pub's objective became clear three minutes in: drink, sleep and make beer. Offering some of the most creative brews of the day (can't go wrong with raspberry cream), Lunar is steeped in beer culture -- not to mention a dive-bar mentality that rivals some of Chicago's most hipster-bred establishments. Where the suburbs' other brewpubs featured food menus and flat-screen TVs, Lunar gave us guest-tap options from other craft breweries such as Victory, Surly and New Holland brewing companies and a cover band spewing off-kilter versions of Foo Fighters' "Colour and the Shape" songs. We loved every minute of it.

Microbrews: Currently on tap: Moondance IPA, Raspberry Cream, Moonbeam Steam, Total Eclipse Stout, Martian Maerzen, McRed Irish Ale.

Brewery tour: If by tour you mean lean over the bar to glance into the sterilized confines of one heck of an indie-rock brewery, then Lunar offers tours every time you sit down.

Where's the brewery? That's it, behind the bar.

Designated driver's tip: Music, baby. Music. Lunar is a big proponent of local rock -- cover music, though it may be. This, coupled with a nightly raucous crowd, provides plenty to see when you're sober.

Food: No way. Not that we could tell, anyway. Drinks only, my beer friends.

Wouldn't have guessed it! Lunar is the only brewpub we could find with a MySpace page. The brewery's top friends include: RateBeer.com, Beer Advocate, beermappring.com and DRAFT Magazine. OK, maybe we would have guessed that.

Brew Crew comment card: "This is a microbrew dive bar!" -- Kristin Kittoe

"How many neighborhood bars brew their own beer? And really, really good beer at that? Not to mention the other beers available, live music and great atmosphere. If I ever lived within walking distance to a bar, I would want it to be just like Lunar." -- Greg Walker

More brewpubs for your own suburban pub crawl:

Prairie Rock Brewing

127 S. Grove Ave., Elgin, (847) 622-8888, www.prairierockbrewingcompany.com

Mickey Finn's Brewery

412 N. Milwaukee Ave., Libertyville, (847) 362-6688, www.mickeyfinnsbrewery.com

Flatlander's Brewery

200 Village Green, Lincolnshire, (847) 821-1234, www.flatlanders.com

Taylor Brewing

717 E. Butterfield Road, Lombard, (630) 990-8700, www.taylorbrewing.com

Govnor's Public House

220 N. Randall Road, Lake in the Hills, (847) 658-4700, www.govnors.com

Millrose Brewing

45 S. Barrington Road, South Barrington, (847) 382-7673, www.millroserestaurant.com

Our Brew Crew, Greg Walker, left, Kristin Kittoe and Chris Frye, raise a glass at Brass.
Gabe Nanni leads the tour group at Two Brothers Brewery and Tap House in Warrenville. The tour departs every Saturday at 1 p.m. Ed Lee | Staff Photographer
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