Irish chef brings his love of Cajun cuisine to Gumbo A Go-Go

There's an old Irish saying, "If you're lucky enough to be Irish, you're lucky enough!"

Patrick Reardon, 46, chef/owner of Gumbo A Go-Go in downtown Palatine, hails from Ballyneety Pallasgreen County Limerick and is channeling his "lucky charm" into creating authentic Cajun and Creole cuisine for the community.

Reardon, a gifted horseman, emigrated to New York in 1983 to pursue a career in horse training. When the race horses were sent to New Orleans for the winter, Reardon went with them. It was there that Reardon's two worlds collided; both Ireland and the Bayou region are big into stews!

"I've always enjoyed food," Reardon says, "and I've always wanted to know what's in it -- how it was made."

In 1989, when Arlington Park reopened, Reardon followed the horses up here where he was approached about a job in Singapore training horses. "Living in Singapore gave me an even greater appreciation for food," says Reardon, who trained more than 150 horses while there. Upon returning to the United States, Reardon met Susanne, his wife and business partner, in Philadelphia. They moved back to Palatine and, in August 2007, opened the restaurant featuring Cajun classics and Crescent City favorites.

What was it like growing up in Ireland? I grew up on a farm; we were self-sufficient. It was hard work, but it was an incredible life. We had 60 cows that we milked by hand, horses and a garden. My grandmother made her own butter and ice cream. Our meat was sent to the butcher to be cut up for us. I dug up potatoes in the garden and helped with the cooking. I also worked with the horses and could ride anything, eventually competing in steeplechase horse racing.

What led you to become a chef? My mom was the biggest influence; she is a classic cook and has attended many cookery colleges in Europe. Every morning she bakes bread and she makes incredible seafood bisque. I also loved watching cooking shows.

How did you become interested in Cajun/Creole cuisine? In New Orleans we only raced five days a week. On our days off, we would get together at someone's house, play cards and take turns cooking and learning from one another. Everyone down there can cook. The food is cooked in batches and is very hearty. Red beans and rice, for example, is a standard Monday dish eaten to cleanse the system after a wild weekend in the city. Many Cajun classics are slowly simmered like Irish stews.

What spices are essential to Cajun cooking? Garlic, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, crushed red pepper, and black and white pepper. I never use salt. We get our spices in Louisville, Ky.

What did you enjoy about the food in Singapore? In Singapore, dinner consisted of nine courses served off of a lazy Susan; there was great variety with Asian, French and Western influences. Ordered a day before and marinated overnight, the Peking Duck is the most exquisite dish in the whole world. Even the street food is incredible.

Name one thing in your kitchen that you could not live without? My 40-gallon kettle. It holds 200 pounds of chicken. Gumbo and etouffee are roux-based, and slow cooking in the kettle allows the spices to marry.

Do you cook at home? What do you like to make? Susanne and I take turns cooking for each other because the restaurant takes a lot of time. We often make things that taste better on the second day like shepherd's pie. Veal chops are also delicious.

Where do you eat when you dine out? Retro Bistro in Mount Prospect and Sagano's Japanese Restaurant in Barrington are favorites. When we are in New Orleans, we like Emeril Lagasse's place.

Do you have a favorite cooking memory? One cold day, four girls came into the restaurant after missing their train to Cary. They ordered one Coke to share. I thought that they didn't have much money, so I brought them out a few dishes to taste. They left a generous tip and a beautiful note written on a napkin that said, "People like you make this world great." They took menus with them and said they were going to spread the word. We have since met some of their friends and relatives from Cary.

What do you like most about being in the restaurant business? The people that you meet; people are really nice. I also like being able to introduce people to this cuisine, to good Southern comfort food served in a bistro environment. We even offer Wi-Fi connection.

What do you like to do in your spare time? I like to go to the racetrack, ride horses, swim and go for long walks in the country. Being born and raised in the country, I enjoy being outside.

Tell us about this recipe: I like Bourbon Street Chicken for its simplicity. There are only four ingredients, it's tender, tasty, kid-friendly and easy to make.

Enjoy this at home or at Gumbo A Go-Go, 45 N. Bothwell St., Palatine, (847) 934-4646 or www.GumboGoGo.com.

Bourbon Street Chicken

½ pound unsalted butter

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into strips

1 bottle (about 11 ounces) hoisin sauce, more or less or to taste

1 cup chicken base

2-4 tablespoons water

Melt butter in a large skillet and sauté chicken.

In a medium bowl, mix together chicken base with the water; add the hoisin sauce and stir to combine. Pour mixture into skillet. and stir to combine. Simmer about 45 minutes; chicken should be tender and pull apart with a fork. Serve over cooked rice.

Serves six.

Chef's note: This dish can be flavored-up with hot sauce if desired.

Chef Patrick Reardon, Gumbo A Go-Go, Palatine