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Illinois Holocaust Museum's new exhibit explores impact of Jewish delis in America

A new exhibit at the Illinois Holocaust Museum & Education Center explores how inextricably linked Jewish food and culture are in American society.

“‘I'll Have What She's Having': The Jewish Deli” opens Sunday, Oct. 22, at the museum in Skokie.

The exhibit highlights how Jewish delis became a cornerstone of American food culture, evolving from specialty food stores catering to immigrants into mainstay institutions.

“Delis became cultural centers for many survivors, giving them a space to meet, find comfort and create a sense of community,” Arielle Weininger, Chief Curator of Collections & Exhibitions, said in a news release. “The exhibition reminds us of the lives that came before and after the Holocaust, and is a testament to the resiliency of survivors.”

The exhibit, organized into thematic sections, explores how Jewish immigrants from Central and Eastern Europe created a new American cuisine while also tracing the larger arc of the Jewish experience in the U.S. during the 20th century. Delis became a lifeline for many of the 400,000 Holocaust survivors and refugees who rebuilt their lives in the U.S. and became owners, waiters, cooks and customers.

Sunday's opening will include food from suburban deli Once Upon A Bagel and a chance to see a Vienna Beef delivery truck from 1929. The exhibit runs through April 14, 2024.

Stories of local Holocaust survivors and Chicagoland delis are featured throughout the exhibit.

Highlights include:

• Items belonging to the late Danny Wolf, who owned The Bagel and was born in the Czech concentration camp Terezin. Items include a portrait drawing of Danny at 2 years old in Terezin and his family's ID cards.

• A meat slicer and jacket from Kaufman's Bagel & Delicatessen. Kaufman's was started by survivor Maury Kaufman and served as a hub for the survivor community for years.

• Several items from Hungarian Kosher Foods will be on display, including cookbooks, advertisements and business cards. The store was opened by Margit and Sandor Kirsche, both Hungarian survivors of Auschwitz.

• Nate's Delicatessen is represented with a Nate's Delicatessen “Hot” Corned Beef sign. A local landmark on Maxwell Street, Aretha Franklin can be seen singing “Think” in the deli in a scene from the 1980 movie “The Blues Brothers.” The deli closed in 1994.

• S. Rosen's will be represented through photos and an original sign. The bakery was founded in Chicago by Sam Rosen in 1909 and is known for its famous rye bread and as the creator of the poppy seed bun, a Chicago hot dog staple.

The exhibit also features a film created by the museum sharing the history and impact of Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen, Kaufman's Delicatessen and The Bagel. Past and present Chicagoland delis will be featured and merchandise from several local delis will be available in the museum's gift shop.

More details about the exhibit and tickets are available at ihm.ec/deli.

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“‘I'll Have What She's Having': The Jewish Deli”

When: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday, Oct. 22, through April 14, 2024; closed on Tuesdays

Where: Illinois Holocaust Museum & Education Center, 9603 Woods Drive, Skokie, (847) 967-4800, ihm.ec/deli.

Tickets: $18 adults; $12 seniors; $8 students; $6 kids 5-11; free for kids younger than 5 and members

A photo of Katz's Delicatessen in New York City is part of a new exhibit, "'I'll Have What She's Having': The Jewish Deli," which opens Sunday, Oct. 22, at the Illinois Holocaust Museum & Education Center. Courtesy of Arielle Weininger
Holocaust survivors Fela and Leon Lesorgen at Leon's Deli in Skokie. Courtesy of Regina Corush, Sheila Domash and Seymour Lesorgen
A butcher prepares an order at Romanian Kosher Sausage Co. in Chicago in 2022. Courtesy of Max Abrams
Sausages are inspected at the Vienna Beef Factory in Chicago in the 1950s. Courtesy of the Vienna Beef Museum
Kaufman's Deli in Skokie. Courtesy of Kathleen Hinkel
The Lawrence and Kedzie corned beef and pastrami on rye with a side of slaw, a latke and a housemade pickle at The Bagel Restaurant in Chicago. Courtesy of Max Abrams
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