Try a dry brine for a flavorful, moist turkey this Thanksgiving

About 20 years ago, my Thanksgiving Day roasted turkey breast turned out tender and juicy, nearly magical. Why?

I'd learned about brining (soaking in a saltwater solution) and tried it on that turkey breast to keep it from being dry.

Here's my story:

Back in the late '90s, when fat was a diet demon, I needed to make a Thanksgiving dinner that would fit into the then dietary dictum: low or, even better, no fat.

Having roasted my share of turkeys previously, resulting in dry (nearly arid) breast meat, I was genuinely concerned that a dried-out turkey breast could be a problem.

That's when I discovered wet brining, which works by denaturing the meat's proteins - tenderizing them. In addition, any protein soaked in a brine emerges weighing about 10% more than when it went in. That's a bonus since a brined turkey breast would not only be tender, but also, if roasted to the proper temperature (USDA recommends 165 degrees), should be moist.

The first time I brined a turkey breast for 24 hours and roasted it, it turned out exactly as I'd hoped - moist and delicious.

As the dietary world shifted over the years, it meant that I could roast brined whole turkeys.

Wet brining a whole turkey has issues, though. A "self-basting" turkey (it's been injected with a salty solution) or a Kosher turkey (salting is part of the Kosher process) cannot be brined since neither can absorb a brine.

Plus, wet brining a large turkey requires locating and using a large, clean container (such as a cooler) that can be kept cold for 24 hours.

The folks over at seriouseats.com, who know far more than me, recently convinced me that a dry brine (sprinkling a fresh turkey with a salt and baking powder mixture) was the best lower-hassle path to a crisp skinned, tender and moist roast turkey.

Today, although it doesn't make for a Norman Rockwell moment, I spatchcock (butterfly) my turkey before I dry brine it. Removing the turkey's backbone, tucking in the wings and flattening out the turkey significantly shortens the roasting time.

A dry brine works as well as a wet brine and is less of a hassle. I always start with a naturally raised, organic turkey (it's worth the extra expense). Naturally raised turkey has a deeper turkey flavor - great for dinner and for making soup later.

But what about the stuffing?

I haven't stuffed a turkey in many years because to ensure that stuffing reaches a safe temperature, the turkey breast usually gets overcooked. This results in dry breast meat, whether brined or not. That's why I bake my stuffing in a casserole dish and use turkey broth (chicken broth works, too) to keep the stuffing moist and flavorful.

If you haven't dry-brined a turkey, this may be the year to give it a try. Don't have a recipe for roasting the turkey? A quick internet search will yield some.

• Don Mauer welcomes questions, comments and recipe makeover requests. Write to him at 1leanwizard@gmail.com.

Dry Brine Mixture

½ cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or 6 tablespoons Morton's kosher salt)

2 tablespoons baking powder

Add the kosher salt and baking powder to a medium mixing bowl and whisk together until combined.

Place a wire rack in a half-sheet baking pan and place a spatchcocked turkey on the rack.

Using your fingers, pick up some of the salt mixture and sprinkle over the turkey on both sides until well distributed. Using up the entire mixture is not necessary.

Place the pan in the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 24 hours. If longer, cover with plastic wrap.

It is not necessary to rinse the salt mixture off the turkey before roasting.

Turkey roasting notes: Use a digital thermometer with a leave-in probe inserted into the thickest part of the turkey's breast to monitor the temperature while roasting.

Let the roasted turkey rest, covered, for 15 minutes.

Cut the turkey into serving pieces and place it on a warm platter for serving.

Don Mauer