Ambitious Fresh 1800 not your usual hotel restaurant
For a long time, hotel restaurants existed to serve tourists, suits and the occasional passerby, but they weren't destinations in their own right.
Thanks to chefs. who stepped into these kitchens citywide, that's all changed. Among the latest spots to jump aboard is Fresh 1800, a new, seasonally minded eatery off the lobby of the revamped Hyatt Regency near Woodfield Mall.
The space is eye-catching with an angular green bar that walks the line between mod and Zen. Just beyond is the nature-chic atrium, filled with obelisk-like topiaries and groups of modern seating.
The otherwise neutral dining room - a mix of booths and wood tables - has a sunken center and overlooks a small courtyard that helps lend a natural feel. It all makes sense once the menu, printed on edible rice paper, arrives. It's replete with seasonal ingredients, many local. Upping the ante, the restaurant will feature an on-site garden when the weather turns warm.
That's pretty ambitious for a corporate spot, which has American-born Armenian executive chef Hagop Hagopian at the helm. Hagopian plans to change the menu every few weeks, working with nearby purveyors to create his tasty eats.
Our meal started with an earthy, crisp-crusted mushroom flatbread that's hard to find fault with. The grilled asparagus salad - flush with organic greens, red grapes, super-fresh feta and prosciutto in white balsamic vinaigrette - offered a diversion from the temps outdoors.
Other choices, which are no less desirable, include Snake River Farms strip steak carpaccio with capers, onions, arugula and Parmesan; scallops atop cauliflower-saffron puree with crisp sweet potatoes and beet syrup; and a seared sashimi tuna and jicama wrap with spicy mustard emulsion.
Love foie gras? You'll find that, too, paired here with blueberry compote, Braeburn apples and orange blossom honey. Of course, there are more basic things as well, such as French onion soup, a steak salad and tuna Niçoise. Artfully plated entrees push the envelope further. Perfectly prepared grilled beef tenderloin arrives resting on a pool of arugula pesto with chewy flageolet beans.
Plump shrimp and scallop bouillabaisse veers in another direction, its saffron-scented broth teeming with potatoes and vibrant veggies. But there are other dishes to consider, including a Niman Ranch pork chop with sweet potatoes and apple-fennel puree; Bell and Evans farms chicken plated with baby butter beans, corn and asparagus in white wine butter sauce; and orecchiette with goat cheese, capers, tomatoes and basil.
Among sandwiches, the grilled Angus burger on a pretzel roll and chicken panini with Provolone, roasted red peppers and pesto mayo sound especially appealing. We opted to try a side of the garlicky, panko-crumb-topped macaroni and cheese. Studded with ham and swathed in extra-creamy sauce, it didn't disappoint.
There's a variation that swaps pasta for potatoes, as well as a twice-baked potato, side of roasted mushrooms and daily risotto. It's not surprising that desserts go beyond what's typical. The chocolate mousse cake contains a surprise nugget of chai tea ganache inside, while a spiced, poached pear financier appears in an All-Clad skillet with vanilla bean ice cream.
The restaurant's wine list is California-centric and pretty affordable with a few far-flung bottles thrown into the mix. A handful of wine flights are offered, too. Meanwhile, service is pleasant and enthusiastic about both the food and the kitchen's mission, making this an equally great place to stop for an after-work cocktail or intimate dinner - whether you're a foodie or not.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Fresh 1800
Hyatt Regency Woodfield, 1800 E. Golf Road, Schaumburg; (847) 605-1234; woodfield.hyatt.com Cuisine: Seasonal American Setting: Zen, off-lobby eatery Hours: Daily breakfast 6:30 to 10 a.m., lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Price range: Appetizers $9 to $12; soups and salads $7 to $16; entrees $11 to $27; desserts $3 to $7 Accepts: Major credit cards