Zak's Place remains a Hinsdale favorite

I first visited Zak's Place a few years back, shortly after it opened. I recall good, non-risky food for the country club set. And although I've heard raves about the place since, nothing drew me back.

Then word came that owners Matthew Van Valkenburgh and Yamandu Perez plan to open Two in the former Black Sheep space downtown, with Landmark vet Tom Van Lente in the kitchen.

So, it seemed like a good time for a return visit.

Is it still wood-paneled? Yep. Feel like dining in a parlor? Uh-huh. And there are rules, too, like you can't order sandwiches in the back of the restaurant. Only at the bar in the front.

The menu hadn't strayed much either. That said, I was glad its grilled romaine salad - topped with smoky, spicy chipotle ranch - remained. The salad was every bit as enjoyable as I remembered, thanks to a pleasant char.

From there it was on to the substantial pork belly hash, presented in thimble fashion and topped with an egg. It was tasty and comforting, in a breakfast-y way. We also ordered Zak's potato wedges, which arrived stacked - in balance-defying fashion - beneath a shower of truffle oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. They were pleasing and, like the food overall, safe.

Other starters include escargot; filet carpaccio topped with arugula, ricotta salata and citrus vinaigrette; seared foie gras; and white wine-steamed mussels.

And there's an exhaustive, if slightly pricey, wine list to match.

Generally, entrees are meat-minded and have a level of familiarity. I settled on the veal skirt steak churrasco. Arriving pink, as requested, on a bed of sliced, grilled sweet potatoes and roasted sweet corn, it was slathered with "grandma's" chimichurri. While I prefer a chunkier take on the condiment, the flavor definitely delivered.

The roast chicken, made with a Granny Smith apple pan sauce, was as comforting as a chicken dish can be. On the downside, though, the skin could have been crisper, and the fried polenta cake accompaniment was both dry and too rosemary-rich.

Had we gone another route, it may have been toward the chocolate-braised short ribs and venison-pork belly Bolognese-topped tagliatelle.

Desserts are no less crowd-pleasing, with choices that include chocolate blackout cake with hot fudge as well as blueberry cheesecake. We settled on the classic creme brulee, its requisite, glassy top scattered with berries. Even more memorable, however, was the warm, gooey bread pudding, which was finished with creamy burnt caramel gelato.

Throughout the meal, portions were large and service was friendly. There's no question about why Zak's is a suburban hit.

I just wonder how its offshoot will translate - or differ - downtown.