Equation for great food simple, straightforward for Southern chef

On-the-job training has definite benefits, especially when you train with the best like Geoff Rhyne did.

Without any formal culinary schooling Rhyne, 30, worked alongside acclaimed Lowcountry chefs Jimmy Sneed and Mike Lata, learning how to take the Southern food he grew up with to the nth degree.

"I literally spent my days at the beach on the docks catching blue crabs," Rhyne recalls. "I would catch so many throughout the day that my mom eventually made the rule: you catch 'em, you clean 'em!"

Late in 2009 Rhyne took over daily operations at SugarToad's Naperville kitchen from founding chef Sneed. A Charleston, S.C. native, this southern gentleman has settled into Naperville with his finance, Kelly Bentfeld, and their two dogs.

What prompted you to become a chef? I started working in restaurants at 20 when I transferred to College of Charleston to play baseball. I never went out for the team, and began working in a restaurant as a dishwasher. As far as becoming an actual chef, a gentleman, the late Bill Stacks, inspired me at the local community college, but it really all began to take shape after a conversation with Jimmy Sneed who sent me to Mike Lata at FIG in Charleston. I owe most of where I am today to Lata. He gave me a chance, and through working hard, the rest just fell into place.

Do you have any culinary mentors? What have you learned from them? Obviously Lata. Drive, passion, precision, focus - he had it and I gravitated toward that. We dealt with farmers all the time, and it was the best. The seafood was amazing.

Jimmy Sneed taught me a lot of the big picture. He has a great line. He asked me once (paraphrasing), "Do you sit down at the end of the night and want to order everything on the menu? If not, it doesn't belong."

Also, my peers - two of my best friends in the world work at a restaurant in Greenville, S.C. called Devereaux's. Spencer Thompson and Josh Hughes. It's all about hard work and passion for us.

What is your culinary philosophy? How do you apply that at SugarToad? Product-driven, technique-focused.

It all starts with having great product. Great product is absolutely about sustainability and respect for the ingredient. Technique is about being fundamentally sound and focused. Seriously, it's not a difficult equation. Look at the food, inside of the food, and let it tell you what should be done. Great Product+Great Technique=Great Food

Do you notice any fundamental differences between Southern diners and Midwest diners? Seafood is huge down South, so is the bounty of produce; it is what's at our back door though. That thinking is developing here in terms of produce, and in some regard, seafood.

The farmers markets here are pretty awesome. Also, LouisJohn Slagel could be the best livestock farmer I have met.

Finally, we take our time a bit more down South. Eating is a celebration.

What is your favorite part about being a chef? The vibe of the restaurant, when it's right, is intoxicating. I just love food, eating and I enjoy sharing it with others.

... the least favorite aspect about your job? The time it takes me away from my fiance and family.

And, every once in awhile, the folks who come in that don't treat our staff right. We are here to serve folks as if they are in our home. Sometimes, customers, for whatever reason, are just demeaning to what we do. That's not how I was raised, and it blows me away sometimes how folks can act. It's all about respect.

What was the most memorable meal you've eaten? Most memorable - easy. On the first anniversary of my G-Mama's passing, I went down to spend it with my G-Daddy. I'll never forget it: seared salmon with succotash and herb butter. It was because of the whole experience. He was so grateful, and was adamant I give him the recipe.

I tell our staff that the restaurant I want us to be is the place where my G-Daddy could come in and feel totally comfortable and get a great meal.

What is your favorite ingredient and how do you like to use it? Really? Favorite? I love a perfectly cooked scallop. Not over complicated, just with some fresh veggies and a light sauce.

Heirloom tomatoes are heavenly - seriously, is there a better sandwich than a BLT?

Eggs - how? Fried, poached, crispy poached, brulee. I could be like Bubba talking about shrimp here!

What three ingredients should no home kitchen be without? Salt, it brings out flavor; citrus, it brightens flavors (great for spring/summer dishes) and fresh herbs. I love what parsley, chives, chervil, basil can do when paired with other ingredients.

What do you do in your spare time? Spend time with my fiance/friends/family. I garden, read, play with my two dogs, and I love sports.

Tell us about this recipe: Sweet Corn Bisque. This is perfect for summer. Just a big bowl with smoked chicken and potatoes - de-lic-ious! I'm a big fan of craft beers, so I'd go with Founder's Dirty Bastard, a Scottish style ale. Can you print that name?

Try this at home or at SugarToad at the Hotel Arista, 2139 City Gate Lane, Naperville. (630) 778-8623.

• To recommend a chef to be profiled, write to food@dailyherald.com.

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<li><a href="/story/?id=379604" class="mediaItem">SugarToad's Sweet Corn Bisque with Pulled Smoked Chicken </a></li>

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