Duke's eclectic palate a win-win option for diners, local growers

The linen-topped tables, covered with butcher paper from recycled material, say a lot about the philosophy at Duke's Alehouse & Kitchen in Crystal Lake.

Formerly Duke O'Brien's, the new concept debuted in August following a makeover of food and interior.

The fresh vibe is smart and refined but casual, with a green conscience and a chef/general manager putting his culinary degree and upscale experience to good use.

Original brick walls and vintage pine floors, refinished to a mirror-like gleam, are recycled features. They bring aged warmth to this cozy, early 20th-century building.

The tin ceiling in the lounge has been restored and the bar replaced with solid oak. In the dining room contemporary pendulum lights are suspended along a banquette; a small stage features live music and comedy nights Thursdays through Saturdays.

An outdoor patio and private dining rooms are available.

The beer menu has expanded from 30 to 50 craft brews, most made locally. The list is well organized and descriptive, so you can pair your brew with your food.

Chef and general manager is Zak Dolezal, 27, son of owner Mark Dolezal, who also owns Durty Nellie's in Palatine.

The younger Dolezal brings French and Asian influences to an eclectic, American comfort food menu. Trained at Kendall College in Chicago, he has worked with highly regarded chefs such as Michael Maddox at Le Titi de Paris in Arlington Heights and Shawn McLain at seafood-centric Spring in Wicker Park.

Reflecting the community's affection for farmers markets, Dolezal buys locally grown and raised ingredients as much as possible, some organic, others certified naturally grown.

"Most of our products don't travel as far, so it is better for the environment, the economy and your palate," says Dolezal.

I venture to add that the menu might surprise you.

Among the nine appetizers are organic tempura green beans, fried in beer batter and served with teriyaki-ginger dipping sauce. Bar-classic chicken wings are from all-natural birds, battered, fried and tossed in Thai chile dipping sauce.

We took a chance on risotto fritters and found a multi-ethnic winner. Properly cooked risotto with wild mushrooms and parmesan is rolled into large balls, coated with rye bread crumbs and fried dark brown. The crunchy crust crackles into the creamy, chewy rice.

Cucumber yogurt sauce with a whisper of wasabi adds a Greek-Asian accent to an Italian dish that works.

Grilled flatbread pizzas can be shared as a starter or coveted as an entrée. The house-made dough is kneaded with fresh herbs, and, for the margherita option, topped with fresh mozzarella, feta, garlic and seasonal tomatoes. We loved the crisp edges and the play of mild and sharp between the cheeses.

Entrees and sandwiches come with sides, but the beet salad is worth adding to the table.

This one is more complex than most. Aside from roasted, local beets there are apples, blue cheese, candied pecans, chewy bacon bits and endive, all drizzled with house-made bacon vinaigrette.

Sandwiches outnumber entrees and include unusual options such as roast lamb with red onion marmalade, Gouda and cucumber wasabi yogurt.

I tried the Tamworth, barbecued pulled-pork sandwich with melted Wisconsin cheddar on a pretzel roll. Tamworths are a heritage breed originally from Scotland. Dolezal buys his from a farm in Walworth, Wis.

The pork is slow-cooked to fall-apart tenderness and doused with a house-made barbecue sauce that needs more zing.

Entrees cover the field from a seasonal vegetarian option to roasted chicken, meatloaf, shortribs, baked mac and cheese, and salmon platter.

The latter is basic but well-prepared. Norwegian salmon is seared in a cast-iron skillet, served with tender roasted potatoes, fennel and beets tossed with lemon and herb vinaigrette.

All three desserts are made in-house. Two warm, chocolate chunk cookies are made for dunking in a small vanilla milkshake; bitter stout and bitter-sweet dark chocolate make a complex pair in crème brulee capped with a fragile crust of caramelized sugar.

We left the build-a-cupcake option for younger diners. They come with choice of frosting and toppings.

Service is small-town friendly and efficient. Owner Mark Dolezal visited all the tables when we were there, chatting and looking for feedback about the new approach.

So far, so good.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Duke's Alehouse & Kitchen

Facts: 110 N. Main St., Crystal Lake; (815) 356-9980; thedukeabides.com

Cuisine: American comfort

Setting: Upscale casual

Price range: Appetizers and flatbread pizzas $7 to $12; soups and salads $6 to $13; sandwiches and entrees $8 to $16; desserts $6.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday (kitchen open until 9 p.m.); 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday (kitchen open until 10 p.m.).

Accepts: All major credit cards