My love affair with brownies
Before my sons came along, before I married my husband, even before the string of boyfriends through the years, I had another great love of my life: brownies.
It started in third grade with a Valentine's Day card from Kyle O'Dowd. Besides the sing-songy wishes, the card held a recipe for brownies. I couldn't wait to get into the kitchen to bake a batch, to smell the cocoa aroma wafting from the oven, to bite into the chewy center and work my way to the coveted corner pieces. I don't know where Kyle is today, but I know that card is still tucked between the pages of my "Betty Crocker Cookbook for Boys and Girls."
Over the years I've dabbled with pound cakes, chocolate mousse and fruit tarts, but I always come back to my first love. They have comforted me in tough times and helped me celebrate the good. I've made them from scratch, from boxed mixes, added peppermint chips, toffee bits and coffee liqueur. I'm not crazy about brownies with nuts; still, I've rarely come across one that doesn't satisfy me deep down.
I've learned through the years that this affair needn't be a secret one - brownie lovers are everywhere. We cross ethnic, socio-economic, religious and, yes, even gender boundaries.
"Almost everyone loves brownies," says Nancy Siler, vice president of corporate affairs for Darien-based Wilton Industries. "They're a decadent comfort food," Siler says. "If you're an adult, you have great memories; they bring out the kid in you."
We brownie lovers owe a debt of gratitude to Fannie Farmer, the iconic American cook, who one day messed around with a chocolate cookie recipe and invented the treat that has survived the centuries.
"She cut the flour in half and created a fudgier creation, which eventually became known as the brownie," explains Shirley Corriher, a noted food scientist and author of "BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking" (2008 Scribner, $40). It's the higher proportion of fat to flour in a brownie that separates it from its cookie or cake cousins, Corriher explains.
One of Farmer's associates, Maria Willett Howard, who was working with Boston chocolate manufacturer Wilbur M. Lowney, added another egg to Farmer's recipe and in the first decade of the 1900s the two-egg Lowney Brownie became the most reprinted recipe on the Northeast Coast.
"The fascinating thing is that many popular brownies today are essentially this recipe," Corriher says.
"Brownies are chocolaty; they're not dried out. Chocolate cakes are dry; cocoa powder acts like flour. Brownies don't suffer from this. They just have chocolate, fat, sugar - all the good stuff."
Adds Siler, "They're very easy to prepare. People can be rushed for time, but you can still prepare a brownie mix and get something you like."
With those good things lined up, pastry chefs and home cooks have added their own flourishes. Peanut butter, apricots, raspberries, macadamia nuts, even chili powder find their way into brownies.
"You try different chocolates, try different candies," suggests Siler. Try stirring white chocolate chips or chopped-up peanut butter cups into your favorite brownie batter.
Wilton's new book "Brownie Fun!" contains recipes for coconut, rocky road and minty grasshopper variations. It even shows how to turn brownies into spectacular desserts using cookie cutters, fondant, chocolate dip and sprinkles. Use brownies to sandwich scoops of your favorite ice cream or as a base for a raspberry swirl cheesecake.
"You can dress brownies up a lot," Siler says. "They're not just for kids after school."
Fudgy with a shiny top
A poll of the Daily Herald Food fans group on Facebook.com showed people overwhelmingly prefer fudgy brownies to cakey brownies.
But what makes them fudgy? And what gives brownies that upper crust? I posed those questions to Shirley Corriher, who, by the way, favors the fudgy variety.
"The difference in cakey brownies and fudgy brownies is the ratio of flour to fat; the more fat, the more fudgy they are."
Keep in mind that butter isn't the only ingredient that contributes fat to a recipe. The fat in bar chocolate (versus cocoa powder) contributes to the ratio as well.
If you want the fudgy taste without the fat, "a little bit of molasses makes anything chocolate taste fudgier."
As for that pale crust that forms on top of some brownie batches, the credit goes to the cook and the eggs.
"That crust is really a meringue, created when you beat the batter after you beat in the eggs," Corriher says. "You can beat like a fool before you add the eggs and you won't get a crust."
I've included her Fudgy Brownie recipe here. If you're in the cakey minority, pick up a copy of "BakeWise" for her cakey version. Wilton's "Brownie Fun!" book also includes recipes for both varieties.
- Deborah Pankey
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Chocolate Carmelitas
1 box (19.5-19.8 ounces) brownie mix
21/4 cups quick-cooking oats
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup miniature semisweet chocolate chips
1 bag (14 ounces) caramels, unwrapped
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
Heat oven to 350 degrees (325 if using a dark-coated metal pan). Position rack in the lower third of the oven. Spray the bottom only of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with nonstick spray or line with foil.
In a medium mixing bowl, stir the brownie mix, oats and melted butter with a wooden spoon until just blended and all dry ingredients are moistened. Press half the mixture evenly into prepared pan. Stir chocolate chips into remaining mixture; set aside.
In a medium saucepan over low heat, combine the caramels and sweetened condensed milk. stirring until melted and smooth. Pour caramel mixture over prepared crust and sprinkle with reserved crumb mixture. Bake 28-30 minutes or until topping is firm to the touch.
Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. Cut into bars.
Serves 24 or 36.
"Brownie Mix Bliss" by Camilla V. Saulsbury (2005 Cumberland House)
Shriley's Fudgie Brownies
11/2 cups pecans
11/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in 1-tablespoon pieces, divided
Nonstick cooking spray, optional
12 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 ounce German's Sweet Chocolate
4 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
11/2 cups dark brown sugar, packed
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups spooned and leveled bleached all-purpose flour
Arrange a shelf in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 300 degrees.
Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. While the nuts are hot, stir in 2 tablespoons of the butter. When cool, coarsely chop and set aside.
Line a 9-by-13-inch pan with parchment sprayed with nonstick cooking spray or Release foil (nonstick side up), allowing overhang on both long sides to make removal easier.
Place the remaining 11/2 cups butter around the edge of a microwave-safe glass bowl. Place the semisweet and sweet chocolate in the center. Melt the butter and chocolate in the microwave on 100 percent power for 1 minute, stirring at least 2 times, and then 15 seconds more, stirring 1 time. Or, place the chocolates and butter together in a stainless-steel bowl. In a large skillet, bring water to a simmer. Set aside until the water is no longer steaming. Place the bowl of chocolate and butter in the hot water, being careful not to get water or steam into the chocolate. Stir the chocolate every few minutes until melted.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a fork just to blend whites and yolks. With a minimum of hand stirring, stir together the eggs, egg yolks, brown sugar, confectioners' sugar, granulated sugar, corn syrup, vanilla and salt. By hand, with a minimum of stirring, stir together the egg mixture and the chocolate mixture. Stir in the flour.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth out. Soak cake strips in water and wrap around the outside edge of the pan as directed. Place the pan on the arranged shelf and bake until brownies just begin to pull away from the edge of the pan, about 1 hour. Err on the side of undercooking rather than risk drying out the brownies. A toothpick inserted should come out wet with gooey chocolate.
Cool completely in the pan on a rack. Remove the brownies from the pan, using the parchment or foil overhang to help lift out the brownies. When completely cool, wrap the brownies well with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Place the brownies on a cutting board and remove the parchment or foil. Place another cutting board on top and turn over so that the brownies are right side up. Trim the edges and cut into 2-inch squares. Wrap individually in plastic wrap and store refrigerated.
Serve 24.
"BakeWise" by Shirley Corriher (2008 Scribner, $40)
Rasberry Swirl Cheescake
Crust
1 package (about 16 ounces) brownie mix (8-inch square size)
Eggs, water and oil to prepare mix
Filling
3 packages (8 ounces each) cream cheese, softened
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup sour cream
6 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 cup raspberry preserves
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9-inch springform pan with vegetable pan spray. In large bowl, prepare brownie mix following package instructions. Spread into bottom of prepared pan. Bake 30-35 minutes; set aside to cool. Turn oven down to 325 degrees.
In large bowl, beat cream cheese and sugar with electric mixer at medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 5 minutes. Beat in sour cream and eggs, one a time. Add vanilla and almond extract; beat until smooth. Pour over cooled crust.
In small, microwave-safe bowl, heat the raspberry preserves on high heat for 30 seconds or until pouring consistency. Swirl into cheesecake batter.
Place cheesecake in middle of oven. Fill a large deep pan with hot water and place on rack underneath cheesecake. Bake 1 hour, 25 minutes or until cheesecake is firm when gently shaken. Turn off oven; leave cheesecake in closed oven for 30 minutes to cool down slowly. Remove cheesecake from oven and cool 1 hour. Refrigerate covered at least 4 hours or overnight.
Serves 12.
"Wilton Brownie Fun!" (2009, $14.99)
Rocky Road Brownies
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter or margarine
11/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, divided
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
11/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 cup coarsely chopped peanuts, divided
2 cups mini marshmallows
1/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips, melted
Heat oven 350 degrees. Spray an 8-by-9-inch square pan with vegetable pan spray.
In small bowl, combine flour, baking soda and salt.
In large microwave safe bowl, melt butter with 1 cup chocolate chips. Stir in sugar, eggs and vanilla. Add flour mixture; stir until just combined. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup chocolate chips and 1/4 cup peanuts. Spread batter into prepared pan. Bake 20-25 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out almost clean.
Sprinkle with marshmallows. Broil until marshmallows are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup peanuts; drizzle with melted chocolate.
Serves 16.
"Wilton Brownie Fun (2009, $14.99)
Cupid's Favorite Cherry Brownie Clouds
1 box (about 19.5 ounces) double fudge brownie mix, prepared
1 can (16 ounces) vanilla frosting
2-4 drops red food coloring
8 ounces frozen nondairy whipped topping, thawed
2 tablespoons maraschino cherries, chopped
1 teaspoon maraschino cherry juice
Prepare brownies according to package and bake in a 9-by-13-inch pan. Allow to cool completely.
Using a 3-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter, press 8 hearts out of the brownies. Carefully remove from pan.
In a medium bowl, beat frosting with food coloring.
In a separate bowl, combine 2 tablespoons colored frosting with 1/2 cup whipped topping, cherries and cherry juice to make a fluffy filling. Spread 2 tablespoons on four brownies. Top each with a remaining brownie to create a sandwich.
Ice top of each sandwich with colored frosting; garnish with whipped topping and additional cherries or colored sprinkles, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serves four.
Duncan Hines
<center><table width="250"><tr><td><b><p class="News">Learn secrets to baking better brownies and tips for dressing up these all-American treats.</p> <p class="News">9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 19</p> <p class="News">Wilton School of Cake Decorating and Confectionery Arts</p> <p class="News">7511 Lemont Road, Darien</p> <p class="News">(630) 985-6077 or <a href="http://school.wilton.com" target="new">school.wilton.com</a></p></b></td></tr></table></center>