Split-pea soup rescues dinner
Back when I was just a cub reporter in Raleigh, N.C., the city had an array of perfect lunchtime dives — restaurants that had been around forever with the scars to prove it. At least once a week, a group of us would climb the creaky stairs to a place appropriately called “The Upstairs,” where Nell Styron and the ladies served a serious split-pea soup, thick and flavored with ham. But the thing that set this split-pea soup apart was the barley. Barley is a true secret weapon if you're trying to make a soup that's velvety and thick without being gloppy, and finally, comforting and homey. (I also use barley instead of potatoes in my vegetable-beef soup.)
Sadly, The Upstairs closed in 2000, and I really miss that soup! No doubt it was an heirloom recipe, but nonetheless Alicia and I set out to see if we could create a suitable substitute. We realized quickly that the best way to get the signature texture was to cook the soup in a slow cooker. And that's fortunate because it means the soup is practically effortless to make.
Just think how great it's going to be when you walk in the door from work to the smells of simmering Split-Pea Soup with Barley and Ham. I envy you already! For another easy legume-based soup — this one is a 20-minute, top-of-the-stove recipe — check out our Speedy Black-Bean Soup at KitchenScoop.com.
Suggested menu: Slow-cooked Split-Pea Soup with Barley and Ham with hearty wheat rolls and grape clusters.
• Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross are co-authors of “Desperation Dinners!” Write them at Desperation Dinners, c/o United Media, 200 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016, tellus@kitchenscoop.com. More at the Desperation Dinners website, kitchenscoop.com.