Hinsdale's new Fuller House will leave you satisfied
Newly minted Fuller House, in a space carved out in downtown Hinsdale, is proving itself an inviting venue for dining and imbibing.
The fetching bar and grill, opened in June by restaurateur siblings Sam Vlahos and Patricia Vlahos-Segretto, occupies remodeled territory previously the domain of Fuller's Home & Hardware. The rustic space, which accommodates 130 patrons in banquettes and high-top tables plus 22 at the U-shaped bar, has plenty of exposed brick, oak salvaged from a barn that once housed a Kentucky Derby winner and massive suspended beams from a decommissioned Chicago church. Twelve TVs keep fans current on their favorite sports teams.
On the second floor, reachable only via a curved stairway, are traditional tables and two banquettes positioned under a distressed, wooden American flag art installation. If you prefer eating al fresco, a small sidewalk patio seats 20.
And now, the food: For the record, Fuller House offers a limited selection of entree-size meals, among them barbecue ribs, steak frites, grilled salmon, and fish and chips.
But the true focus of the menu is on small plates, burgers, sandwiches, salads and wood-fired pizza. Diners have an open invitation to graze on familiar fare that's carefully prepared and often given a creative twist.
Our exploratory meal started with grilled buffalo shrimp, seven large beauties prepared in a zippy sauce (assertive but not overpowering) and served with crumbled blue cheese. The tasty dish was plated with celery and carrot sticks and a ranch dipping sauce.
Among other small-plate choices were calamari with spicy cherry peppers and horseradish cocktail sauce; a hummus platter with baked pita, olives and dipping vegetables; fried pickles; and nachos with a pimiento cheese sauce, pepper jack, white beans, red onions, guacamole and pico de gallo (optional upgrades include pulled chicken, brisket, pulled pork or steak).
A dining companion joined me in sharing a 10-inch sausage and caramelized onion pizza baked to perfection in Fuller House's hardwood-fired oven. The crisp Neapolitan-style crust, garnished with mozzarella, provolone and tomato sauce, brought back memories of a similar dish once consumed in Italy. It's everything one could ask of a pizza.
Burger fans will want to consider the half-pound chuck-brisket blend sandwich that comes with hand-cut fries, orzo salad or Napa cabbage coleslaw. A variety of burger toppings are available, from various cheeses to bacon to an over-easy egg.
Still other dishes include fish tacos, grilled chicken, shrimp po'boy and caprese.
To end dinner with something sweet, look no further than the Whiskey Banana Pudding. This memorable confection was a comforting amalgamation of French vanilla pudding, caramelized bananas, vanilla wafers (which should have been given a chance to soften), whiskey caramel and vanilla-bean whipped cream.
Another strong facet of the Fuller House operation is its well-stocked full-service bar. Hallmarks include more than 20 bourbons and ryes, classic cocktails, a rotating beer program and nearly 30 by the bottle, plus a tidy global wine list.
The Dale Manhattan, similar to a Rob Roy, proved itself a smooth, easy-to-drink cocktail made with Koval Rye, sweet vermouth, Angostura Bitters and a Luxardo maraschino cherry.
The waitstaff is mostly on its toes, keeping water glasses topped off and supplying extra napkins. The one downfall was they neglected to bring fresh plates between courses.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Fuller House
35 E. First St., Hinsdale, (630) 670-8955, <a href="http://fullerhousebar.com">fullerhousebar.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> American pub fare
<b>Setting:</b> Contemporary, casual; street parking
<b>Prices:</b> Small plates/sandwiches/salads: $6-$13; entrees: $16-$19
<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays