Romance on a plate

Woodfield Shopping Center poses an ever-expanding weave around several constants: expensive services, expansive parking and age amnesia (for better or for worse). But forgetting about Valentine's Day is definitely not one of the forgivable "amnesias," so now's the time to embrace the mall area's charm. For this is where Woodfield-based Entourage Restaurant and its quite imposing two-level, asymmetrically deconstructed building aptly fills your 3-in-1 (food/drink/entertainment) romantic repertoire.

The scene

With a space as big as this, decor mistakes typically outweigh the room's size. Luckily for all, this has been expertly avoided at Entourage. Even better, you'll notice inviting - and Valentine's Day-approved - fireplaces, as well as wall waterfalls, plush leather couches and an enormous (yet always filled) bar. These, not to mention the main dining room, are diminished in enormity by quite clever sectioning that's both cozy and romantic. And it's all very easy on the eye. Maybe not so much on the wallet, but seeing as it's Valentine's Day, and Entourage's high-end mission is accentuated by the decor's obvious monetary overtones, you'll see that in the end your lover is very much worth it.

Good news for special-occasion fancy diners: The white cloth-clad tables are covered in white paper, toning down the feeling of having to act unnaturally uptight. The whole place tends to feel comfortable, actually, behind the obviously expensive sheen. The bar evokes those '80s camera-trail tricks with its bottles arranged in a sort of cascade, and the kitchen is, it seems, sequestered behind bulletproof glass, so diners get all of the reality-cooking entertainment, and none of the swearing.

The food

Bread arrives at the table in the shape of oversized pretzel rolls, flat breads and sourdough. This means it's time for a cocktail. Cue in the Margarita Verano (tequila, vodka, sour and lime), a blue-ish creation that features what looks like tiny silver flakes floating on top. (It's actually the salt and pepper garnish, but glance at the luxury cocktail section of the menu, and you can have your own precious metal flakes for real.)

The menu is helpfully starred to indicate house specials, and following this logic we ordered the smoked chicken, Andouille and spinach crispy roll, together with a cup of the lobster bisque. The roll actually consisted of three rolls propped straight up against each other on a sea of smoked red pepper emulsion. Though it seemed overwhelmed by the gooey melted cheese and altogether quite heavy for an appetizer, the lobster bisque was deliciously made by the book, infused with a touch of ginger that tasted sweet and yet a bit spicy.

Since you are very much dining in a seafood-and-steak type place at Entourage, it's only natural to order filet-and-crab cake medallions with citrus butter and sage veal sauce, as well as pancetta-wrapped shrimp scampi with asparagus risotto and roasted garlic basil beurre blanc. The steak's presentation was minimalist but effective: crispy, light crab cakes stacked atop the filet and fresh, crispy arugula gently arranged atop the crab cakes. A sprig of rosemary conquered the tiny hill of caramelized onions, thus completing the ensemble.

Shrimp scampi boasted six jumbo shrimp on two skewers over a bed of risotto with marinated tomato, and it was as guilty as they come. Simultaneously crispy because of the pancetta, yet juxtaposed with the softness of grilled shrimp and resulting in an excellent balance of flavor, it made for perfect bite after perfect bite. It's not about reinventing the wheel here; it's about successfully rolling it to the table. The risotto ended up the lesser of its parts, with slightly watery and sticky consistency.

The dessert -- the Baked Alaska -- was a very nice surprise. Beaten egg whites covered the mint chocolate chip gelato and chocolate cake, resembling a large snow mound. It was all flambéed right there at your table, and as anyone will tell you, flambéing is worth it every time, on pretty much anything.

The experience

The service was nothing short of fine dining - completely flawless. For this reason alone it is the perfect Valentine's Day restaurant. Add the dim lights, big comfortable booths and candles as well as DJ's spinning across the way in the lounge, and suddenly you realize that although the façade may be big, shiny and loud, Entourage has got real feeling underneath.

Address: 1301 American Lane

Town: Schaumburg

Phone: (847) 995-9400

Web: www.entourageventures.com

Hours: 11:15 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11:15 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Friday; 4 to 11:30 p.m. Saturday; 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Contemporary American

Meals served: Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch

Alcohol/bar: Full bar

Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Discover, Visa

Carryout: Yes

Children's menu: No

Entertainment: Yes

Outdoor seating: No

Reservations: Yes

Dress: Casual elegant

Parking: Valet and lot

Average entree price: $13-30