Joy of cooking in the genes of Pinstripes chef

During his career chef Mark Grimes has served all sorts of royalty - Prince Charles and Lady Diana; former Presidents Ronald Reagan and Gerald Ford and culinary icons Julia Child and Robert Mondavi.

His clientele at Pinstripes is not as highbrow yet his food remains high-class.

Grimes, 45, oversees menu development and the kitchens crews at the South Barrington and Northbrook locations of this unique bistro, bowling and bocce venue.

He lives in Lincolnshire with his wife, Sandra, and daughters Claudia, 13, and Isabelle, 10.

What is your earliest food memory?

When I was a kid in Detroit I remember going to two great restaurants: The Sheik was a Middle Eastern restaurant that had great lamb and The Roma Café was a traditional Italian restaurant. I remember the maitre d' would recognize us; the food was great with amazing bread as well.

And as far as cooking I had a school project and it was on American Indians and my part was about what they eat. I decided to make some of their cuisine, Navajo bread. It was actually pretty good.

Who or what inspired you to become a chef?

Both my parents were good cooks and I grew up at a time when you actually sat down and the meal was not just about eating, but slowing down and cooking a meal to enjoy, and talking about the days happenings. That feeling when either of my parents made an awesome dinner or when we went to a great restaurant kind of lit a fire in me that I might like do the same some day. When I got older and started in the restaurant business, I liked it and found I was good at it as well, so I decided to make it my career.

What was your first restaurant job?

Simon House Restaurant in Milwaukee. I was a cooks' helper for minimum wage and loved the energy and camaraderie of the kitchen.

Any mentors along the way?

Many of my instructors at culinary school and Kevin Graham, executive chef at The Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans, gave me great advice and skills to be a better chef. The Windsor Court was a Five-Diamond Hotel; the intensity level and the drive for perfection along with chef Graham's knowledge and creativity set a high bar for me. We would change the menu twice a week for lunch and dinner; in the 3-plus years I was there that equates to over 500 menus and we never wrote down recipes unless we needed it for a cookbook.

What's the best part of your job at Pinstripes?

Creating great food, memorable events and new friendships. The restaurant business is a small and tight world; we all help each other out.

Did you know what bocce was before you started there?

Sure, I have always had Italian friends and worked for a lot Italians as well, but I usually played in somebody's backyard, nothing as nice as Pinstripes courts. I had a chance to play with our owner, Dale, with a couple of kids on Saturday night; it's amazing how much younger kids enjoy bocce too!

In your 25-plus years in the business, can you recount a memorable meal?

One disaster avoided was for a very high-end dinner at The Windsor Court Hotel, it was for about 80 people. Robert Mondavi, Julia Child and many other peers were attending; chef Kevin Graham was out of the county and I put together the menu in his absence. On the day of the event Kevin Graham returned and was checking on how the event was going. He knew - but did not tell me - that some red-legged grouse from Scotland was not going to make it on time for the event. He was testing me as to how I would handle it. Not knowing this I got the team together came up with a substitution for the dish and paired wine, had the marketing people ready to reprint the new menus and I set a time when a switch had to be made. We pulled it off and everybody loved every course.

Kevin Graham congratulated us also mentioned he knew the day before the grouse were not going to make it and was testing me. At first I was a little ticked but soon came understand his motives.

Do you cook on Thanksgiving or is it your day to kick back?

Lately a little of both, but I usually at least bring a dish or two and I do the carving.

Any tips for preparing holiday meals?

Pick a majority of items that can be prepped the day before. Also dishes that are great at room temperature that can be plated up ahead of time. Braise items that can also be done the day before can help and are always flavorful.

Write out a prep list by day and time of day so you stay on track. Also a detailed grocery list so you are not wasting time. Call a favorite restaurant and ask them for items that are too complicated or to timing consuming or use them to get ingredients that are hard too find. People do this with our restaurant all the time with doughs, dressings or sauces.

Remember, less is more. Make six great dishes rather than 10 that you cannot get done in time or right.

How do you add pizazz to Thanksgiving side dishes?

Use unique items like roasted fingerling potatoes, balsamic roasted cippollini onions or wild arugula. Try a different flavor bread for your stuffing; add olives or asiago. There are a lot of options.

What's your secret to moist turkey?

I like to brine turkey, it makes much moister, just don't overbrine or meat gets a little mealy. We start the turkey breast-side down and use a tin foil tent for the first three-quarters of the cooking, then flip it over to get a nice color and look to the skin. Always baste with butter and the drippings, it helps create a nice to seal in the juices. Make sure you let the turkey rest at least 20 minutes so the juices go back into the bird, then carve it.

Who, dead or alive, would you invite to the holiday table?

If we could play round of golf and I could get some pointers before dinner Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods. And my father who passed away when I was 25; he did not get a chance see or visit some of the great places I've worked; I'd love to get his opinion on some of the dishes I done over the years.

Tell us about this recipe. Butternut Squash Risotto.

This is a great Thanksgiving dish. You can cook the Arborio rice the day before. Make sure your stock is hot when making the risotto as well, it will speed up the time and get you a better finished product.

• To recommend a chef to be profiled, write to food@dailyherald.com.

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