advertisement

There's a trick to cooking beneficial broccoli

A recent trip to my local farmers market yielded two bunches of beautiful, bright green broccoli.

Did I just hear you say "Yuck?"

OK, I know some folks just don't like broccoli and turn their noses up at the flavor and aroma.

Broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, Brussels sprouts and cabbage all belong to the brassica family. They also contain sulfurous compounds that, if overcooked, can stink up a kitchen, generating unappetizing aromas and flavors. Few vegetables benefit from being overcooked, but this gang is particularly sensitive.

Other people don't care for the tough, fibrous stems. Those are definitely disliked, even by broccoli lovers. Those tough fibers in the stem take so long to soften during cooking that the florets get way overcooked.

Years ago, I discovered a neat trick, trim the stems with a vegetable peeler or knife. First, cut the floret end off the stem, as close as reasonably possible. Next, trim off the other end of the stem.

Starting with the stem's end toward yourself, use a sharp vegetable peeler to peel away the stem's fibrous skin from the pale green inner stem. Work your way around the entire stem. When finished, you'll be left with a clean, inner stem that can easily be cut into half-inch slices.

That peeled stem now will cook at the same rate as the flowering end. If you like broccoli and have never eaten that part, you're going to be pleasantly surprised at how delicious it is; almost melting in your mouth.

Thanks to an article in a 12-year-old Cook's Illustrated, I learned that there's a virtual internal clock running when cooking broccoli. Seven or more minutes of cooking time turn broccoli into a smelly, dark gray-green unpleasant mess. Cook less than seven minutes and broccoli looks bright green, and will taste great.

I cook broccoli in boiling water. It's important to get the water boiling before adding the broccoli, too. Dumping broccoli into cold water and then bringing that water to a boil reduces any possibility of timing the cooking accurately. I start my minute timer as soon as the broccoli hits boiling water. While the broccoli spends six minutes cooking, I regularly stir it to get as much of the broccoli's surface beneath the pan's water line.

At six minutes, I drain and serve it. It's a nice bright green and tender. Perfect.

No hollandaise on this plate; I enjoy a dollop of fat-free mayonnaise on my broccoli. Sure hollandaise tastes terrific, but it's essentially a warm emulsion that starts with egg yolks into which butter is blended. Likewise mayonnaise is an emulsion that starts with egg yolks and some seasoning into which oil is slowly blended. They're close relatives. Try it once before you turn you nose up at that idea, too.

Try this recipe: In this delightful pasta salad you use the same water to blanch the broccoli and cook the pasta, a real time-saver. This colorful and delicious salad also delivers more than 6 fiber grams.

Bowtie, Broccoli and Black Olive Salad

3 pounds broccoli, stems peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds, florets cut into bite-size pieces (about 7 cups)

¼ cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice from 2 lemons

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper

1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press

½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

¾ cup slightly thickened chicken broth (see recipe)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound bow tie-shaped (farfalle) pasta

1 large carrot, peeled and grated (large hole grater)

20 large black olives (I prefer Greek kalamata) pits removed and chopped

15 large fresh basil leaves, rinsed under cold water and patted dry between paper towels, shredded

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil over high heat; stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Add broccoli and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon remove broccoli to a colander to drain and cool to room temperature.

Add another 2 teaspoons salt to pot, return to a boil; stir-in bowtie pasta and cook according to package directions. Drain well.

While pasta cooks: In a large mixing bowl whisk lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic and red pepper flakes together until combined. Add olive oil in a steady stream whisking until combined. Continue whisking while you add slightly-thickened chicken broth in a steady stream. Set aside.

Add pasta, broccoli, carrots, olives, and basil; toss to mix thoroughly. Give dressing a quick whisk and pour over salad, toss again to blend, Cool to room temperature, taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately.

Serves eight.

Nutrition values per serving: 315 calories (18.5 percent from fat), 6.5 g fat(0.8 g saturated), 54.5 g carbohydrates, 6.6 g fiber, 11 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 460 mg sodium.

Slightly Thickened Chicken Broth

1 cup fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Bring all but 2 tablespoons of broth to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Meanwhile, whisk together the 2 tablespoons of broth and cornstarch. Gradually whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling broth. Boil until the broth is slightly thickened, about 30 seconds. Let cool before using. Makes about 1 cup.

Nutrition values per tablespoon: 4 calories, trace amount fat, 0.1 g protein, 0.9 g carbohydrate, 0 fiber, 0 cholesterol, 25 mg sodium.

Article Comments
Guidelines: Keep it civil and on topic; no profanity, vulgarity, slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about tragedies will be blocked. If a comment violates these standards or our terms of service, click the "flag" link in the lower-right corner of the comment box. To find our more, read our FAQ.