Are fat-free cooking sprays really fat free?

Do you believe the label on your "fat-free" cooking spray means it's free of fat?

You do?

Read the ingredient list on the back and you'll discover that the first ingredient on every one of those cooking sprays is oil. Is it possible for oil to be free of fat?

Of course not.

Cooking spray manufacturers cleverly turned a food labeling loophole to its favor.

You see, a product's nutrition information (including calories and fat) is determined by serving size. Cooking spray manufacturers consider a one-third second spray a single serving.

Locate the "servings per container" section on your favorite spray's nutrition label and you'll find it (and most similar sprays) contain 400 to 500 (or more) servings per can or bottle.

That one-third second spray equals less than a half gram (0.27 grams). According to labeling regulations, if a serving contains less than half a gram of fat (which of course it does because the entire serving is smaller that than), zero can be listed on the label. And, if that serving contains fewer than 5 calories, zero can be plugged in to the calorie line as well.

The final ingredient on cooking spray's ingredient lists: propellant, generally a combination of nitrous oxide and carbon dioxide.

Many cooking sprays use canola oil, but others contain soybean or olive oil. I've decided that rather than settle for a manufacturer's decision on the quality of oil, I want to select my own, especially when it comes to olive oil, for cooking. I prefer high quality California or Italian olive oils for their distinctive flavors. Plus, I didn't have to accept cooking spray's other ingredients (including grain alcohol).

To keep the addition of fat and calories low, I originally used a brush to spread oil on a pan, baking sheet or cut vegetables. A brush distributes oil well and is certainly easy to use, but clean up was a hassle.

When a friend gave me a nonaerosol sprayer I enthusiastically filled it with my favorite olive oil, pumped up the pressure and sprayed some on a sautȩ pan. I expected a fine, even mist but got blobs and dribbles instead. I tossed the bottle and went back to the brush.

A recent magazine article about oil sprayers caught my attention. That article highly recommended two sprayers: Cuisipro ($13.95) and Misto ($9.95). I bought two Misto sprayers: filled one with California olive oil, the other with hazelnut oil (lowest in saturated fat; highest in monounsaturated fat). I pumped each one up (no propellants required) and used them to spray a pan. A nice mist of oil coated my pan's surface. Great.

Then I began thinking about using my new sprays to lightly coat a waffle iron or pancake griddle, spritz meat or fish before sautȩing or grilling, add a hint of flavor to salad greens, bread for bruschetta or grilled cheese sandwiches, or to baste a roasting turkey breast.

Finally, a simple way to use controlled amounts of good-tasting oil with no added ingredients and no difficult cleanup.

Try this recipe: Since we're into grilling season, here's one way I use my new oil sprayer.

Don Mauer appears Wednesdays in Food. He welcomes questions, shared recipes and makeover requests for your favorite dishes. Write him at Don Mauer, Daily Herald Food section, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006 or don@theleanwizard.com.

Grilled Basil-flavored Zucchini

4 medium zucchinis or yellow summer squash (about 2 pounds)

Olive oil spray

Salt

Pepper

Dried basil, crumbled

Balsamic vinegar

For charcoal: Open bottom vents. Ignite 6-quarts (about 2½ pounds charcoal briquettes or hardwood charcoal). Once coals are hot, set up for single-level medium heat fire (you can hold your hand 1 to 2 inches above cooking rack for only 3 to 4 seconds.

For gas grill: Turn each burner to "High" and ignite. Cover grill; heat until hot. Reduce heat to medium/medium-high.

While grill heats: Place two layers of foil on a small metal baking pan. Set aside.

Trim stem ends of zucchini or summer squash and cut each squash in half lengthwise. Lay squash cut-side down in prepared pan; spray lightly with olive oil. Turn squash over; spray lightly with olive oil. Dust each piece with salt, pepper and crumbled basil.

When grill's hot: using tongs, place squash on grill rack cut-sides up (discard top foil sheet from pan), and grill 3 to 4 minutes or until a light golden brown. Using tongs, turn zucchini or summer squash slices over (cut-side down) and grill 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from grill to foil-lined pan, drizzle with balsamic vinegar; serve immediately.

Serves four.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving (without added salt): 40 calories (29.6 percent from fat), 1.3 g fat (trace amount saturated), 6.8 g carbohydrate, 2.2 g fiber, 2.3 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 7 mg sodium.