Two Brothers Tap House doubles pleasure of pub patrons

When a restaurant experiments with different types of fish to make sure the fish and chips work well with its beers, you know where its priorities lie.

And could there be any doubt at Two Brothers Tap House in Warrenville, which looks like it was carved from the company's popular brewery?

The staff selected Holland sole for the showy specialty dish after rejecting tilapia, ocean perch and cod, said Gabe Nanni, general manager. They also tried three or four different beers before settling on one for the batter.

The result? Well, beer-battered fried fish no doubt set our diets back a day or two, but - what a way to splurge.

The large fried fish fillets arrived hot and fluffy, and the tartar sauce garnered praise. While we found the fish a tad greasy as fried foods tend to be, this version was much less so than traditional fish and chips in England. The fries are made from real potatoes and not as crisp as fast-food eaters are accustomed to.

All the food we tried from chef Tom Michel and his staff was rich and flavorful, though - again - not inclined toward the light.

The appetizer that disappeared quickly at our table was crab and artichoke dip - spicy, tasty and heavy with its Parmesan and bleu cheese.

On the sandwich side, the muffuletta with salami and olives is very spicy and rich, warmed to melt the cheese. The saltiness is a hit with beer.

Ironically the hamburger seemed to need salt. Added bacon brought on a smokey flavor, one we could have lived without. The sweet potato fries, however - long and slender - were perfect just the way they were.

Brewery meals, of course, are incomplete without the beer, which will probably interest at least one member of your party if you're dining here.

During our meal we only tried beers brewed by Two Brothers, but there's also a wide selection of bottled American and European beers

We appreciate the local names like Domaine DuPage and Prairie Path Golden Ale and liked all of them except the stout - because, well, you're either a stout fan or you're not. And I'm not.

Domaine DuPage French Country Ale offers a slight taste of hops. Ebel's Weiss, a traditional weiss, is heavier, and we picked up the touches of banana and cloves. Prairie Path Golden Ale should appeal to those who like light beer. Note the citrus in The Bitter End, Two Brothers' classic American pale ale.

Two of the beers we tasted are seasonal. Heavy Handed India Pale Ale is made by adding just-picked, still-wet hops.

And then there's Northwind Imperial Stout - syrupy with malt and chocolate and appropriately served in a brandy glass. Like I said, only stout lovers will appreciate this.

The whole Two Brothers endeavor started when Jim and Jason Ebel, who sold equipment and ingredients to home brewers from the Brewer's Coop in Naperville, founded Two Brothers Brewing Company in 1996.

In true American entrepreneurial style, the passionate microbrewers converted dairy tanks donated by their grandfather, a retired farmer.

Today it's a shiny state-of-the art brewery you see through a large window in the pub. While the Ebels originally brewed draft-only beers, now you can take home bottles, too, and the beers are sold in eight states. The Coop operates from the same Warrenville complex.

The tap house is hidden in an industrial or warehouse district, but the directions on the Web site are easy to follow, and the night we were there it was obvious many families had made the effort.

Our server was busy, but he didn't bring water when asked and perhaps most unforgivably did not check back to see if we wanted more beer. He would have sold his otherwise happy customers a few more glasses.

Two Brothers Tap House

Location: 30W315 Calumet Ave., Warrenville,

Contact: (630) 393-2337, www.twobrotherstaphouse.com

Cuisine: Tasty and interesting bar food.

Setting: Like someone put a bar and tables in a large corner of a brewery.

Hours: Carryout lunch only from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; dinner served 3 to 9 p.m. weekdays Tuesday through Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday; noon to 10 p.m. Saturday; and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. Bar open one hour later each day. Closed Monday.

Price range: Appetizers about $8; salads and sandwiches $8 to $11; entrees $7 to $11; desserts $3 to $4; beers $4 to $6 per glass.

Also: There is a children's menu. Free, no-reservation, 45-minute brewery tours are at 1 and 2:30 p.m. Saturdays.