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Poppy seed dressing an instant time machine

My family, and all four of my grandparents lived in Evanston. Nana, my maternal grandmother, loved a fancy little tearoom on Davis Street in downtown Evanston called The Dominion Room.

Some internet research turned up a 1960 article in a publication called The Sentinel where they wrote: “The DOMINION ROOM, an exclusive, provincial dining room and a landmark of Evanston for the past thirty years, has been operated by Mr. Alfred K. Collins since 1943. This charming colonial-style tearoom features Audubon prints and Williamsburg colors and decor. Special attention is given to luncheons which require fancy linens, tables and unique centerpieces. The menu is planned to give guests food such as that prepared in our finest homes. Pastries and bread from their own bakery are a special attraction. Homemade salad dressing is served and also offered for sale ...”

Nana, for a v-e-r-y special occasion, would take her first grandson, Donny, all dressed up, to lunch at The Dominion Room.

That article made me want to step into a time machine and go there right now.

Since I clearly remember their poppy seed dressing, I decided to build a time machine. There are several poppy seed salad dressing recipes on the internet, and I found that many differ significantly from what I remember. One recipe seemed similar enough and, making some changes to it (using honey instead of sugar or artificial sweetener), I made my own dressing.

I used organic, extra virgin olive oil instead of vegetable oil. The honey I had in my pantry was a unique, rain forest version that had a floral scent and flavor. I had to buy the poppy seeds. Since I use them infrequently, I don’t stock them in my pantry. Poppy seeds are high in oil content and can go rancid (spoiled and inedible) if left too long at room temperature. Finally, I used no-added-sugar avocado oil mayonnaise.

My dressing came together quickly and was not quite sweet enough, so I added a packet of stevia. Then, since a fruit salad is the classic use for poppy seed dressing, I tossed together 2 cups of cantaloupe, 1 cup each of organic raspberries and blueberries and 1½ cups of cored and sliced organic strawberries. Except for the cantaloupe, all were local and in season.

I drizzled some of my new dressing on the fruit and dug in. It was so good that it was hard to stop adding fruit and dressing to my bowl.

My dressing was the perfect Dominion Room time machine.

Give it a try.

• Don Mauer welcomes questions, comments and recipe makeover requests. Write to him at 1leanwizard@gmail.com.

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Don’s Poppy Seed Dressing

½ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar*

2 tablespoons honey

1½ tablespoons poppy seeds*

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon Kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil*

Add mayonnaise, vinegar, and honey to a medium mixing bowl, whisking together until combined. Add poppy seeds, mustard, salt, and pepper, and whisk together until combined. While whisking, slowly drizzle olive oil into the mixture until completely combined. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a glass jar and refrigerate for at least one hour. Makes about one cup

Nutrition values per tablespoon: 94 calories (90% from fat), 9.4 g fat (1.3 g saturated fat), 2.5 g carbohydrates, 2.2 g sugars, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, 0 mg cholesterol, 50 mg sodium.

*Note: Organic preferred.

Substitutions: To make sugar free, substitute 3 packets of organic stevia for the honey, or to taste.

To make a classic fruit salad, toss poppy seed dressing with cantaloupe, raspberries, blueberries and strawberries. Courtesy of Don Mauer
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