Covering asbestos ceiling with drywall
Q: My home has "popcorn" ceilings, the kind with asbestos. The cost of asbestos removal is so high, I've decided to overlay the ceilings with drywall. The person I've hired to do the work suggested quarter-inch thick drywall. I've read that half-inch material is better, but I'm afraid this will make the 8-feet high ceilings appear too low. What do you recommend?
A: The height difference after adding a layer of drywall to your ceilings will be totally imperceptible. In fact, you could probably add multiple layers and not notice the difference.
The only practical use for quarter-inch drywall is it bends easily when constructing curved walls. The problem with quarter-inch drywall on a ceiling is it will eventually sag between the rows of nails because it lacks sufficient rigidity. What's more, the initial application would probably be uneven, rather than flat, because the soft, textured surface of an acoustic ceiling can be as convoluted as a relief map. With half-inch drywall, these irregularities would not affect the overall flatness of the material.
Because you are dealing with asbestos-containing building material (ACBM), there are two additional concerns. First is that adding drywall involves some rubbing, scraping and penetrating of the acoustic ceiling surfaces. This could cause asbestos fibers to be released into the air. Proper breathing protection and room ventilation are therefore recommended during the entire process. It would also be wise to have the work done by a licensed asbestos abatement contractor.
Of further concern is the matter of disclosure when you eventually sell the home. The next owner might decide to embark on a major remodel, involving demolition of ceilings. To prevent possible air contamination at that time, future owners would need to know that ACBM had been encapsulated beneath the drywall.
Q: When I purchased my home, it was the middle of a very hot summer, so my home inspector did not test the heater. Months later, when the cold weather arrived, the heater turned out to be inoperative, and the contractor I called said the system is unsafe. The repair costs are more than I can afford. Should I go after the inspector for negligence, the sellers for nondisclosure, or both?
A: Heating systems should be inspected and operated by a home inspector, regardless of weather. The fact that the inspection took place during summer is irrelevant. Heaters can be tested during any season. It might get uncomfortably hot in the house if tested during summer, but that's not nearly as sweat-inducing as expensive repairs after the close of escrow.
If your inspector had reasons not to operate a heating system, the report should have advised further evaluation by a licensed heating contractor, prior to purchase. If he did neither, then he was negligent and could be liable for the costs of repairs. You should contact him to determine whether he has errors and omissions insurance.
If the heating problems predate the sale of the property, the sellers may also be liable for nondisclosure of a significant defect.
Q: My home is about two years old and the property has a well for the water supply. Last week, the well shut down because of an electrical problem. Our electrician says the wiring to the pump is No. 14 gauge, which is undersized. He advised a minimum wire size of No. 12 gauge. The people who sold us the property said they would share the repair costs with us. Because this was the well contractor's error, shouldn't he pay for repairs?
A: This is definitely the well contractor's responsibility. You and the sellers shouldn't have to pay for repairs. The 14-gauge wiring is definitely undersized for a well pump. The contractor who installed the well and wired the equipment should have known this. If he debates the point, ask him to provide a copy of the pump manufacturer's installation manual. Those instructions should specify the proper wire size for the system. Hopefully, the contractor will accept responsibility for all necessary repairs. If not, you can file a complaint with the state agency that licenses that profession. If that doesn't work, you can take the matter to small claims court.
• Email Barry Stone, certified building inspector, at barry@housedetective.com.
Distributed by Action Coast Publishing