Raspberries are in season - here are three ways to prepare them
Raspberry season is upon us. Although you can buy raspberries year-round, out-of-season fruit is typically grown in Mexico or Chile. Even in-season raspberries in the grocery store will likely be grown in California. The nutrient and flavor loss are notable during the time it takes to go from field to shelf. Savor the sweet, tangy and juicy little flavor bombs now, when you will be more likely to find locally grown raspberries, especially if you visit a farmers market. Some area farms even offer a U-pick option, which makes for a fun family outing and provides you with enough berries for freezing.
Besides eating fresh, my favorite way to enjoy raspberries is to turn them into a compote. It is one of those things that takes very little time and effort yet yields delectable, crowd-pleasing results. A humble bowl of vanilla ice cream becomes a sensational dessert. It's also good swirled into Greek yogurt or poured over pancakes at breakfast. It went onto their Christmas wish list when I served it to my nephews.
A similar (easy!) preparation is used to make jam, which is smoother and thicker than a compote, making it spreadable. Or you could go the other way and make a coulis, which is just a compote that's been pureed and pressed through a sieve to remove the seeds. Technically, a coulis isn't cooked - just raspberries, sugar and a little lemon juice that gets blended and strained. I find that the gentle heat intensifies the flavor.
Some recipes (for jam, compote or coulis) include orange zest, vanilla extract or liqueur. It will yield a more complex flavor if you are feeling fancy and have some Cointreau, Grand Marnier or even Aperol on hand. St. Germain, made from elderflowers, would be interesting, too. The compote and coulis may be used to top an array of desserts like brownies, merengues and cheesecake. The coulis can be put into a squeeze bottle and used to do some fancy plating with dots and swirls for a professional-looking presentation. If you are making any of these out of season, frozen berries work as well as fresh.
Jam has a higher proportion of sugar to fruit and more lemon juice than compote or coulis. I tend to use less sugar than is called for in most recipes since my homegrown berries are so naturally sweet. When making jam, I also omit pectin, the soluble fruit fiber used as a thickening agent. The result is a little thinner than it would be otherwise, but I prefer it that way and like saving an extra ingredient and extra step. The lemon juice helps activate the naturally occurring pectin, and the resulting jam is perfectly spreadable. If you plan on storing your jam in the refrigerator for more than a few weeks, you will need to freeze the jars or use a hot-water canning bath to make the jam shelf-stable. In either case, use canning jars (the thicker walls can withstand temperature extremes) and leave ¼ inch of space at the top to expand.
• Leslie Meredith is the winner of the 2019 Cook of the Week Challenge and teaches people how to grow and cook "real" food. She runs Farmhouse School on a historic homestead in Campton Hills. See the school's Facebook or Instagram pages @FarmhouseSchool or contact Leslie at food@dailyherald.com.
Raspberry Compote
16 ounces fresh or frozen raspberries
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until berries soften and begin to break down, about 10 minutes. Serve once cooled slightly or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Makes 10 servings
Leslie Meredith
Raspberry Coulis
16 ounces fresh or frozen raspberries
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until berries soften and begin to break down. Let cool slightly before pureeing with an immersion blender. (If using a regular blender, only fill 1/3 and remove the feeder cap from the lid. Put a towel over the lid, and use a low speed. This allows the steam to escape safely). Pour through a fine meshed sieve, pressing with the back of a wooden spoon to extract liquid. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Makes 10 servings
Leslie Meredith
Raspberry Refrigerator Jam
2 pints (4 cups) fresh or frozen raspberries
2 cups granulated sugar
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue stirring frequently until the jam thickens or about 12-15 minutes. Use the spoon test by dipping a metal spoon into the jam, turning it on its side and watching the jam run off. At first, the syrup will come off in drips. Once it falls off in sheets, your jam is ready. Decant into jars and store in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks.
Makes 19 ounces or a little more than 2 cups
Leslie Meredith