Suburban crew puts down roots at Barrington's Farmhouse on North
“There's a great new spot in the suburbs serving farm-to-table fare.”
I don't know that I'll ever tire of telling people that. However, it does get frustrating when that great new spot with the hyperseasonal menu and quaint dining room closes inside of a year because the owners bit off more than they could chew. I've got higher hopes for Farmhouse on North in Barrington and its team.
Owner Meghan McGinty comes from a blended family - restaurateurs on one side, farmers on the other - and she knew at a young age - heck, she's still young at 29 - that running a restaurant was in her future. After graduating from Lake Zurich High School, she headed to Loyola University in Chicago to study finance.
“I wanted to make sure I knew that side of the restaurant business,” she said.
I'm counting on that book knowledge and her hands-on experience at area eateries - nearby Ciao Baby! among them - to keep Farmhouse on North around for a good long time. The restaurant opened a few months ago in the space where The Greenery, Eclectic and Savannah once dazzled diners. The property sat vacant since 2009, and when McGinty came across it, the space had been updated from the studs to the electric to the attic.
The decor jumps out of a page from Midwest Living magazine with its white walls, exposed brick, whimsical prints of barnyard animals and wooden mismatched seating that appear to have been pulled from rural churches and, well, farm houses. The chairs have been refinished and upholstered, though the padding was too thin for my tush.
On a busy Friday evening, the main floor dining room was at capacity, so we headed upstairs to The Hayloft for a drink to wait for our table. A handful of local brews claim the tap handles and there's a tight list of wines by the bottle or the glass. The farm-to-table focus hasn't bled into the cocktail menu just yet, though manager and bartender Mike Vaccarello (another Ciao Baby! alumni) did recently debut White Fall Sangria, a pinot grigio-based quaff spiked with cinnamon whiskey. A table opened upstairs, so we took it instead of holding out for a quieter table on the first floor. The Cubs were playing on the flatscreens at the time, so I didn't much mind.
McGinty purchases all of the meat for Farmhouse on North from Slagel Family Farms in downstate Fairbury and chef and Elgin native Marcanthony Griffin does it justice in the kitchen. Everyone in the collar counties needs to experience Griffin's smoked lollipop lamb chop appetizer. Expertly trimmed chops seared to tender pink with a bit of creamy yogurt sauce to tame the jerk spice. I say a “bit” of sauce because there wasn't enough of it - a situation that surfaced with more than one dish.
Cheese curds, filet tartare and garlic-ginger wings round out the starters.
McGinty brags that the meat is so flavorful that she doesn't even put salt and pepper shakers on the tables. Meat isn't the only food that might need a slight shake or a quick grind, so I politely ask her to reconsider. By the time a diner flags down the waitstaff to ask for salt and pepper, the dish in front of them has grown colder. I'm all for using a light hand with salt in the kitchen, but let guests season to taste.
My only complaint with the chicken noodle soup was its lack of salt; the shreds of chicken were tender and the vegetables nicely diced and al dente. The roasted beet salad could have used a grind or two of pepper to complement the citrusy, sweet dressing and fried goat cheese.
My girlfriend and I dined family-style on the free-range chicken breast served with champagne pan sauce and the vegetable risotto. The risotto, with its cheesy, toothy bite and ample chunks of zucchini and patty pan squash, was a highlight for sure yet didn't take away from the cauliflower “rice” and glazed carrots that accompanied the chicken. The sauce was delicate yet herby, and yes, there wasn't enough of it. Griffin's menu also includes a garlicky roasted pork loin, beef sliders served with homemade bacon jam and fish of the day. McGinty said they're considering adding fish fry Friday and fried chicken Saturday to the weekly lineup and are planning to open for lunch and Sunday brunch down the line.
The sweet potato bread pudding sounded tempting, but we went with what the menu touted as the Farmhouse favorite - apple cider doughnuts. The freshly fried mini bites were good - they had a nice crisp crunch but lacked a cidery bite - but the caramel glaze was sweetly sticky and oh-so-good on both the doughnuts and the vanilla ice cream in the bowl.
Our service was well-paced and attentive, traits that show the crew's experience. That coupled with the strong menu bodes well for a long tenure.
<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
Farmhouse on North
117 North Ave., Barrington, (847) 387-3408,
Cuisine: Farm-focused fare with flare
Setting: Cheery, homespun dining room
Entrees: $12-$25
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; bar open until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday