Well-made Italian classics dominate at Toscani in Wood Dale

Since early January, west suburban diners with an appetite for Italian-American classics have found just the ticket via Toscani in Wood Dale.

Housed in the Georgetown Square shopping complex (in what was once an Asian fusion buffet), this spacious venue with seating for about 300 is operated by the Frank Murati family, which has run a similar restaurant in Arlington Heights known as Toscana going on eight years. A large wall mural depicting Tuscany's wine-growing countryside gives the restaurant a homey feel.

The menu at the Wood Dale location basically mirrors that of its flagship restaurant. Tried-and-true selections such as baked lasagna, made-in-house pizza, eggplant parmigiana and homemade spinach gnocchi as well as a selection of veal, seafood and chicken dishes are all represented — nothing you haven't seen before.

And if you don't spot your favorite dish, chances are the kitchen will prepare it or put it in the queue as a future chef's special.

From Toscani's moderately priced wine list we enjoyed a glass of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Fratelli, a well-balanced dry red with a soft, fruity bouquet.

Our dinner began with complimentary bread service (something more and more restaurants are forgoing) featuring a fine-textured tomato focaccia.

Unfortunately, I found the Shrimp de Jonghe appetizer, a Chicago specialty shared with a dining partner, off the mark. While the large shrimp couldn't have been better, the sherry-laced bread crumbs in this casserole were a letdown: flattened into a gummy mass.

Stick with the other starters such as little neck clams or mussels sauteed in garlic and olive oil, calamari fritti or calamari Toscani (sauteed with crushed red pepper), or Italian sausage and peppers.

The menu also highlights a half-dozen thin-crust pizzas in either 10-, 14- or 16-inch pies. The Toscani Special is loaded up with sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions and green peppers; Piccante Murati's combines roast beef and hot giardiniera.

On to the entrees, Alfredo sauce with mushrooms and strips of crispy chicken breast starred in the rigatoni Prato. The pasta was perfectly shaped for capturing the delicious creamy sauce.

Meanwhile, we also sampled another well-made traditional dish. Veal Florentina was prepared with prosciutto, spinach, mozzarella and sauteed mushrooms in a light sauce. Both entrees included a decent house salad.

Given the oversized portions, it's not surprising that the waitstaff is proficient at boxing up leftovers. That's a good strategy if you're contemplating dessert. The usual suspects on an Italian dessert menu are at hand: tiramisu, cannoli and chocolate cake.

So is a heavenly salted caramel mousse cake, which I recommend to go along with a fresh-brewed cup of Lavazza coffee. The three-layered confection included a dense caramel cake base, salted-caramel mousse and a fudge topping. A perfect way to end a meal.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Toscani

356 Georgetown Square, Wood Dale, (630) 422-7944, <a href="http://www.toscaniwooddale.com">toscaniwooddale.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Italian-American

<b>Setting:</b> Casual, family-friendly

<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers $4-$10; entrees average in the midteens; desserts $5-$6

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; noon to 10 p.m. Saturday; noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday