'Local' produce may not be as homegrown as you think

The trend toward eating locally grown produce has been an economic boon for farmers markets in many suburbs and even has grocery store produce sections adding more offerings from close-to-home growers.

Such fresh-off-the-field fruits and vegetables appeal to people seeking healthier and more tasty meals, but also cater to those who want to eat in a way that supports the local economy and uses fewer resources to package and transport food.

Yet "local" doesn't necessarily mean near your backyard. Lettuce, cabbage and corn often come from Indiana; blueberries, asparagus, rhubarb, squash and peaches from Michigan; and carrots, cucumbers, radishes and green beans from Illinois producers.

Roughly 500 producers from around the Midwest sell fresh fruits and vegetables to farmers markets and grocery chains in the Chicago and suburban market, about 20 percent higher than last year, said Carl Duewer, president of the Illinois Vegetable Growers Association.

"Society, in general, has driven this by eating healthier and demanding more produce," Duewer said. "So far, it's been a win-win all around."

Grocery chains say they aren't necessarily competing with the small farmer or businessman, just aiming to provide what shoppers want.

Yet chain stores in some areas could feel the pinch when local farmers markets operate.

"It depends on store location and how close a farmers market is, but typically we see a small drop in produce sales when the local farm markets throughout the five-state region come on board," said Meijer spokesman Frank J. Guglielmi. "We may not get any drop in some areas due to the fact we carry many of the same farmers and our customers know that. In Illinois, we typically don't see too much change since the local produce availability is somewhat limited, but we continue to push to source more from local farmers."

Michigan-based Meijer has stores in Rolling Meadows, Naperville, Bolingbrook and elsewhere and features produce mostly from farmers in Michigan, Ohio and Indiana and only a small amount from Illinois. Guglielmi says Meijer would rather partner with Midwest farmers than compete against them, saying the chain also has an interest in supporting the local economies.

"We have been buying locally grown products for 76 years and always will," said Guglielmi. "Our larger off-season produce suppliers, in states like California, Texas and Florida along with international produce suppliers, know to expect a large drop in our purchases once the harvest from the local growing season in the Midwest begins."

Jewel-Osco, which has its Midwest headquarters in Itasca, has a history of working with Midwest growers. Jewel's "locally harvested" promotion began in mid-July and will continue through early September, said spokeswoman Karen May.

"We are working with more than 40 local growers in Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee this year," she said. "Our stores do call out some of the produce that is part of the initiative with signs."

Whole Foods' sales are up, regardless of whether nearby farmers markets are open, said spokeswoman Kate Klotz.

"Sales are always up during this time of year because people in the Midwest know that everything they get is fresh and in season. So, the easy answer is no, we don't see any sort of dip - we see a general increase."

Whole Foods doesn't aim to compete with farmers, either.

"We work with them to build their business, not only through events and community support, but also with our local loan program," Klotz said.

Still, many suburban families enjoy shopping at their local farmers market. It provides a special, outdoor atmosphere that can't be found inside the aisle of a grocery chain with lots of plastic-wrapped or boxed produce, said Margaret Myren, co-chairwoman of the Barrington Farmers Market. The market has about 20 vendors every Thursday in June through October and has a waiting list for more.

"Everyone is getting the idea now that buying local is better and more nutritious," said Myren. "Whether it's the farmers market or the grocery store, people are recognizing value and want to support family farms."

Also, most shoppers don't buy everything they need at a farmers market and will spend money at the grocery store as well.

"The farmers market isn't really a threat to the grocery stores. They don't provide direct competition ... our goal is mostly to bring people together," Myren said.