Lazy teenager turns into an accomplished chef

Jose Oliver freely admits that he was a lazy teenager.

Growing up in central Mexico he was a bit of a rebel and resented trekking out to the dairy farm to work with his father. As punishment of sorts his mother stopped doing his laundry and cooking for him, so Oliver had to learn the basics himself.

He may not have appreciated it at the time, but over the years Oliver learned to love cooking and became quite good at it. At his new restaurant in Lombard, Fonda Isabel, he highlights authentic, home-spun cuisine and pays homage to his mother.

His road to Lombard was a long one. Upon graduating high school he applied, at the urging of an aunt, to work in the kitchen at The Fairmont Acapulco Princess Resort where she worked as a server.

"I figured I would get to hang out on the beach and stay a few months," Oliver, 44, recalls. "I worked there for several years all the while asking the chefs a lot of questions!"

At 21 year he moved to Chicago. He first learned to make pizza with Connie's Pizza and through the years has worked in various server rolls at O'Hare Airport, The Radisson Hotel in Lisle, and then as a chef at Elliot's Deli before he opened Taco Grill & Salsa Bar in Westmont.

He lives in Lisle with his wife, Ivonne, and his children, Manuel, 13, and Bianca, 11.

What was your first restaurant job? My first restaurant job was as a busboy/bar back in my hometown. I wasn't getting a paycheck I worked for tips and food, which was OK. I really enjoyed tasting different food, because of this I became a very good friend of the chef (Fernando) and really interested in the art of cooking.

At what point did you realize you were going to cook for a living? When I moved to Acapulco and I had the chance to work for big hotels with several restaurants and great chefs, I realized that this was the business that I wanted to be a part of.

What's the biggest challenge in owning your own restaurant? To be original in my recipes and in that way that keeps people interested in my cooking style. I am always thinking about new plates, new presentations and any way to surprise my customers. That is my biggest challenge.

What's the greatest reward that comes form owning your restaurant? To make a living doing what I love to do: cooking.

What do most Americans don't know about Mexican cuisine? That Mexican cuisine is more than tacos, rice and beans. And burritos are not part of the authentic Mexican cuisine.

What is your favorite ingredient and how do you like to use it? Garlic. I like to use it raw, baked, roasted, sauteed as much as possible.

What do you do in your spare time? Spend quality time with my family ... watch a movie, go out to a good restaurant, watch a good boxing match, drink good tequila.

Tell about your Pollo a la Isabel: The inspiration behind Pollo a la Isabel is my mom. She used to cook this dish when I was a kid and every time I cook it I remember her.

Try this at home or at Fonda Isabel, 18W333 Roosevelt Road, Lombard. (630) 691-2222.

• To suggest a chef to be profiled, write to food@dailyherald.com.

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