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From food to the atmosphere, Redstone a super-sized experience

Several years ago, a place like Redstone American Grill may have fit perfectly with the cultural landscape of excess, exemplifying the holy trinity of upscale casual dining - big space, big plates, big bill.

And why not? Things were (mostly) swell in the Americas. In the several years of its existence, Redstone has opened five restaurants in as many states (the flagship spot is in Minneapolis). Yet as the ubiquitous financial crisis made its rounds, Redstone found itself not immune to existential dilemmas, so it struggled.

Now flush with a fresh injection of cash, the restaurant is carving out a new identity and seems to be doing just fine, thanks.

A recent Thursday night visit found the leviathan space packed and oozing an understated bustle. As the name suggests, stone is a predominant element on the part of the facade, suggesting some sort of impenetrability. Deep reds dominate the interior, accented by low-lit backdrops, playing more to a romantic element. The allusion is clear: once in, you belong.

A centrally erected horseshoe-shaped bar (but with right angles) splits the restaurant in two. Four large televisions tuned to sports provide an additional escape for patrons at the bar deep in conversation and drink.

The wraparound stone patio with a fire pit is a definite attraction, were it not standing lonely out in the rain.

Aside from the self-propagated Western theme, the word that comes to mind and is well-utilized on the menu: jumbo. Make no mistake, dainty is not part of Redstone's demeanor.

You would be well-advised to start with the lodge cornbread. Served in a deep iron skillet with maple butter to boot, this dense, sweet bread lies underneath a delicious, crunchy crust. A dollop of the soft maple butter spreads the sugariness even further.

A calamari appetizer - offered by too many restaurants and risking aversion - does well here, with delicate breading covering impressively fresh squid, topped with a chopped spicy pepper. A mayo-based dipping sauce was redundant.

Grilling is supposed to be Redstone's piece de resistance, in rub and method, so we obliged by testing the variants - the first iteration of which was the piled-high chicken and rib combo. A satisfying, if a bit fatty, browned half-chicken sat atop a slab of sauced and well-rubbed ribs that are sweet and fall off the bone.

A steakhouse this is not and we certainly paid the price to find this out via the rib-eye. Although ordered medium-rare, the cooking lacked precision and was uneven, nearing rare in some parts. The meat had flavor and was above average, to be sure, but for a whopping $38, it simply did not deliver. A blue cheese and tomato salad surrounding the steak fared better.

The undeniable star of our meal was the minimalistic in approach and execution grilled Chilean sea bass. Without heavy sauces or rubs to disturb the delicate taste, the quality and freshness of the fish shined through. A palm-size fillet was lightly crusted with pan juices, preserving the moisture and flavor that otherwise can be so easy to lose. Crisp grilled asparagus and tomato rounded out the dish.

Dessert is not really necessary, but if you still have room, try the banana cream pie. The pie was rich and more than two bites was simply gluttonous.

At the finale, Redstone was best described in the words of our server: definitely a corporation, but unique in its own way.

Redstone American Grill

13 Lincoln Center, Oakbrook Terrace, (630) 268-0313, redstonegrill.com

Cuisine: Modern American

Setting: Upscale after-work playground for the upwardly mobile

Entrees: $16 to $38

Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Credit cards

The grilled bone-in rib-eye is one of many meaty offerings on the Western-influenced menu. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer
Redstone's spacious bar and open dining rooms provide a comfortable culinary escape. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer
A rugged facade welcomes diners to Redstone Grill in Oakbrook Terrace. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer
Executive chef Jason Klever plates the buffalo shrimp appetizer. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer
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