Store-brand foods really do stack up in side-by-side comparisons

It's time to take another look at store brands. When we did a side-by-side comparison of canned tomatoes several years ago, the national brands won hands down. Not anymore!

Supermarket chains have improved the quality of both the products and packaging of store brands to the point that they're now generally referred to as "private-label products." And while the Private Label Manufacturers Association says they generally cost 5 percent to 20 percent less than name-brand products, we've seen savings as much as 25 percent.

In today's economy, a savings of even 5 percent feels substantial, and lots of people are giving store brands a try. Kroger, the biggest U.S. grocery-store chain, says 27 percent of its sales come from private-label products. Some stores have introduced a second "premier" house line, and even fancy gourmet-type groceries offer private-label brands.

You're likely to find the largest selection of store brands on the canned-tomato aisle. Even at a smaller Harris Teeter near Alicia in Raleigh, N.C., the selection of canned-tomato varieties and brands stretches at least 10 feet.

Today's recipe for Fire-Roasted Tomatoes and Chicken over Ziti uses canned tomatoes, and if you don't happen to find fire-roasted ones, regular diced works great, too. We experimented with several private labels and national brands, and were equally satisfied. We'd love to hear about your experiences with these products - either positive or negative. E-mail your comments to tellus@kitchenscoop.com. For another flexible canned tomato-based recipe, visitkitchenscoop.com.

Suggested menu: Fire-Roasted Tomatoes and Chicken over Ziti with fresh field greens and sourdough rolls.

• Write to Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross at Desperation Dinners, c/o United Media, 200 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016. Or visit kitchenscoop.com.