Fresh limes key to building a classic margarita

As the last of the winter's chill leaves the air, we thirst for fruity drinks and icy cocktails. No more Irish coffees or brandy-infused cocoa for us. We want bright drinks in sunny hues, and in my mind no drink welcomes the sun's rays more than a margarita.

Regarded as the most popular drink in America (though martinis are giving it quite a run), the history behind this tequila-based quaff varies by the source. Was it named for an actress who couldn't handle tequila straight, or the girlfriend of a former Los Angeles bartender or invented by a Mexican bar owner or an Acapulco socialite?

While the lore remains a point of spirited debate, the building blocks of the classic cocktail do not. Lime juice, orange liqueur, sweetener and, of course, tequila.

Esteban Aguado, the bar manager at Fuego in Arlington Heights (and now Logan Square), has made thousands, probably tens of thousands of margaritas, switching up tequila varieties and swapping orange liqueurs to create nirvana in a handblown glass. See what he says you need to make a margarita on Page 2.

Limes: "You want the outside of the lime to be shiny and smooth," Aguado says. The limes for Fuego margaritas come from California, Mexico and South America and are juiced by hand.

"I like the old-school way better than technology," he says. Make sure there are no seeds, but a hint of pulp is OK.

To make four margaritas, you'll need ½ cup lime juice (1 ounce per glass).

Sweetener: Taste the lime juice, as every batch will have different levels of sweetness and tartness. A batch of simple syrup (equal parts water and sugar cooked until clear then cooled) will dull the puckery edge.

"You want it not too sweet, but not on the tart side," he says.

Agave syrup, made from the same plant as tequila, is gaining ground as a popular sweetener, but keep in mind its flavor is sweeter than sugar so you'll need less.

Triple sec: Triple sec is a triple distilled liqueur flavored with orange peel. Aguado uses Grand Marnier (French orange-flavored brandy), Cointreau (French liqueur flavored with sweet and bitter oranges), Gran Torres (Spanish orange-scented liqueur) or Gran Gala (Italy's version of Grand Marnier) depending on the type of margarita he's making.

Cointreau and Grand Marnier add smoothness to high-end versions while Grand Gala's heavier scent make it a good pair for frozen margaritas and those infused with other fruits. Classic recipes call for equal parts lime juice and triple sec, so you'll want a ½ cup for four drinks.

Tequila: For a traditional straight-up or on-the-rocks margarita, you want white or silver tequila, Aguado says. "It's the smoothest." He recommends Don Julio Blanco or Corralejo Blanco. You'll want two parts tequila to lime juice, so for four drinks you'll want 1 cup.

He says he also uses blanco tequila in other fruit-infused margaritas, so the tequila flavor doesn't muddy the fruit's notes.

Reposado tequila has rested two to 12 months in oak, giving it a golden color and deeper flavor. Aguado says this type stands up in frozen margaritas,

"You can buy a very nice tequila for $40 to $60; it's not necessary to spend $100 for a bottle," he says. The pricey ultra premium or anejo (aged) tequilas should be reserved for sipping, he says.

Technique: Straight-up and on-the-rocks margaritas should be assembled in a cocktail shaker, Aguado says. "Put in the ingredients and ice and shake it up; you want it foamy," he says.

Pour the contents in an 8- to 10-ounce glass that's been rimmed with lime juice and salt. The salt balances the acidity of the drink.

Salud!

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