Il Sogno di Barrella's new location has a new look, new offerings
Loyal patrons of Palatine favorite Il Sogno di Barrella are likely flocking to the spot's new location in Wheaton by the dozens. It's either that, or a fast-as-lightning word of mouth is the culprit for the restaurant's filled-to-the-brim status when we stopped by on a recent Saturday night. It could also be a little bit of both - the loyal clientele mixed in with the Wheatonites eager to try what is probably the only truly authentic Italian place in town.
The heart of Barrella is the same - head chef and owner Nunzia "Nancy" Longobardi and her family - but just about everything else, including the décor, menu and wine list, have had an overhaul, in addition to some brand-new elements such as lunch Wednesday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch.
Says Longobardi, "We have added more dinner specials, expanded the wine menu and have a brand new brunch menu, offering crepes, pancakes and Italian frittatas. But I think the reason we have been as successful as we are is because this is truly a family operation, with a real Italian chef in the kitchen. That is something you don't see very often."
Before you get to experience the culinary repertoire, however, you'll find that it's the atmosphere and interior that charm you. The long, steep steps start straight from the front door and carry you up right into the middle of the action; you suddenly find yourself surrounded by full tables and the vibrancy of red and yellow walls.
As we wait for our table at the low-lit sparkling granite bar, we opt for one of the martinis, the Italian Kamikaze (a potent vodka and lemon creation that puts us in a great mood). Meanwhile, behind us, the chef is mingling with the guests, enjoying a drink herself and lively conversation.
We are seated near the back, along a massive brick wall that lines the southern part of the restaurant. The room we are in is narrow and long, and in order to serve its obvious private party mission, it can easily be closed off via the long, dark curtain that starts at the bronzed and ornate plaster ceiling. It's a touch of the Old World that was most likely inherited by the owners, but nevertheless perfectly emulates the old European décor now mostly seen in castles and museums.
Our server, Antonio, has just been quadruple-sat (that's restaurant lingo for the simultaneous seating of four different tables in your station), so he could be forgiven for the prompt yet quick introduction and taking of our order. He does inform us of the specials a bit later on, and they include a red snapper and a tilapia entrée, both filleted tableside. Although the seafood sounds intriguing, made even more so by the fact Naples (a stone's throw away from the ocean) is the chef's homeland, we decide that tonight we are more meat minded.
We do pay homage to the seafood via the misto alla grilia, a smoky grilled octopus, calamari and shrimp appetizer in an olive oil and garlic lemon marinade, with the added kick and color of a balsamic vinegar drizzle.
All entrees come with either soup or salad, so as we enjoy a thick cream of tomato covered in crunchy croutons, and a crisp house salad with vinaigrette, we gaze over the wine list, which boasts an adequate combination of Californian, Italian and French wines. We stop on the by-the-glass choices of Francis Ford Coppola Pinot Noir and Chianti Classico Reserve.
As can be expected, the seafood entrees are extensive and include, among others, such dishes as lobster, shrimp and scallops in a cherry tomato sauce, as well as linguini with a triad of choices: clams, mussels or calamari.
The veal section features classics such as veal saltimbocca and veal in marsala sauce, but we go with the vitello alla barrella (three tender veal medallions topped with prosciutto and a sliver of roasted red pepper under a melted, smoked mozzarella in a white wine sauce with string beans).
The pollo section also stood its ground with the vesuvio and barella, and we opt for the Francese (a fragrant lemon-butter sauce poured over three very succulent egg-battered chicken breasts, also served with crisp green beans).
The two dishes definitely evoke the old Italian world with their homemade taste and heavy-on-the-butter philosophy. They are like an Italian grandmother welcoming you home - heartwarming, and nothing quiet or subtle about it.
Dessert is a profiterole a chocolatto (a handful of bite-sized cream puffs topped with a cold chocolate mousse, a fresh strawberry and powdered sugar) together with two excellent jolting Lavazza cappuccinos, enough to offset the vino for a jovial but safe drive home.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
<p class="factboxheadblack">Il Sogno di Barrella</p> <p class="News">100 N. Hale St., Wheaton; (630) 682-5900; <a href="http://www.barrellaristorante.com" target="new">barrellaristorante.com</a></p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> Old world Italian with some modern accents</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> A multilayer mix of the new vs. the classic</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 4 to 10 p.m. Monday and Tuesday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. (brunch) and 3 to 9 p.m. (dinner) Sunday</p> <p class="News"><b>Price range:</b> Appetizers $9 to $14; entrees $18 to $58; desserts $6 to $10 </p>