Leave the pumping up for the gym; I want my meat unenhanced

Over the past few years, when you've shopped for fresh meat or poultry, you may have noticed labels with the word "enhanced" on them. And, if you shop at Wal-Mart, nearly everything in the meat section has been enhanced.

So what does "enhanced" mean? Here's Wal-Mart definition, circa 2006:

"Our case-ready meat selections offer an extraordinarily flavorful and tender eating experience because they can contain an added solution that helps make the cooked product tastier and juicier. The solution is used at a level of up to 12 percent and is made from pure, wholesome ingredients, such as water, salt, sodium phosphate, natural flavorings and herbs, such as rosemary."

If plumping-up pork chops, chicken breasts and beef steaks with "wholesome" ingredients makes them more tender and taste better, that should be great. Right?

Not in my kitchen. Here's why.

Let's begin with cost. That "up to 12-percent" solution's almost all water; meaning Wal-Mart and other stores are asking me to pay high meat prices for their very low cost water.

Even if enhanced and plain meats cost the same price per pound, plumped-up meat, after factoring-in protein content, can cost 13-percent more. That doesn't seem like much, but according to the Truthful Labeling Coalition: "The U.S. government estimates that consumers spend $2 billion per year buying salt water at chicken prices." And, that number doesn't include what we pay for water in plumped-up pork or beef.

Next issue: Most meat and poultry is naturally low in sodium. A 4-ounce skinless, boneless chicken breast, for example, contains just 77 sodium milligrams. The same size enhanced chicken breast, according to researchers at the University of Wisconsin, could contain 450 to 1,000 mg of sodium. For those concerned about sodium intake, those levels are alarming.

Secondly, what's "wholesome" about sodium phosphate? According to the American Meat Institute, a trade group, sodium phosphate retains moisture and protects flavor. I prefer to pass on the sodium phosphate and add moisture and flavor with homemade marinade or brine using prime, all-natural ingredients.

To confuse the issue even further, the label on a package of boneless, skinless chicken thighs at Sam's Club reads "all natural" but also says "enhanced" and indicates added chicken broth.

According to the USDA "a product containing no artificial ingredient or added color and is only minimally processed (a process which does not fundamentally alter the raw product) may be labeled natural."

To my way of thinking, chicken with up to 12-percent added solution, no matter what's in that solution, is not "minimally processed" and should in no way be labeled or considered natural. Your thoughts?

Today the column marks its 16th anniversary. I love writing this column and sharing my recipes and stories with you. This column wouldn't be here every week without you, and I want to thank you for that from the bottom of my heart

Try this recipe: If you've got a source for unenhanced pork chops, give my lean version of Shake 'n Bake a try. Sure you could use enhanced pork, but the water they give off during baking will make the coating soggy instead of crunchy.

• Don Mauer welcomes questions, shared recipes and makeover requests for your favorite dishes. Address them to Don Mauer, Daily Herald Food section, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006 or don@theleanwizard.com.

Golden Crunchy and Spicy Pork Chops

2 cups panko bread crumbs

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon rubbed sage

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon celery seeds

½ teaspoon dried basil

½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

5 tablespoons low fat mayonnaise dressing, divided

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

4 center-cut boneless pork chops (6-7 ounces each)

Vegetable oil spray, preferably olive oil

Place oven rack in center position and heat oven to 425 degrees.

Line a jellyroll pan with foil and place an oven-safe wire rack into the pan. Set aside.

To a food processor fitted with plastic blade, add panko, paprika, sage, onion powder, garlic powder, celery seeds, basil, black pepper and 2 tablespoons mayonnaise to a food processor; pulse 3 or 4 times to thoroughly and quickly mix the ingredients. Transfer crumb mixture to a nonstick pie pan.

In a small bowl, whisk remaining 3 tablespoons mayonnaise and mustard.

Pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Using your fingers, coat each chop with 1 tablespoon mayonnaise mixture. Place chops in crumb mixture, sprinkle top of pork chop with crumb mixture, and press down firmly on chop to adhere crumbs. Turn chops over and repeat, making sure crumbs coat both sides and edges. Place chops on prepared rack. .

Bake pork chops until juices run clear and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the chop reads 145 to 150 degrees, about 18-20 minutes. Remove chops from oven and let rest, on rack, for 5-10 minutes. Serve immediately.

Serves four.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving: 534 calories (26 percent from fat), 15.5 g fat (3.8 g saturated), 50.1 g carbohydrates, 4.5 g fiber, 43.5 g protein, 107 mg cholesterol, 727 mg sodium.