Cucumber shows its versatility

The first vegetable I can remember liking is cucumbers. My mother would put slices in chive-flecked sour cream or douse them with vinegar and dill and I would eat bowlfuls.

Turns out there are so many more ways to enjoy these summer beauties.

Chefs throughout the country are taking a closer look at this fruit (yes, it's not a vegetable at all, but a member of the gourd family); instead of tossing slices on a pile of greens as an afterthought, they are featuring cucumbers in fresh salads, sushi preparations and drinks.

A crispy shrimp dish at Duane Park in New York comes with a peanut-cucumber salad. Cucumbers shine in a Champagne vinaigrette alongside tomatoes, jicama, beans, apples and corn at Fraiche in Fairfield, Conn. At Restaurant Seranade in Chatham, N.J., you can find them alongside yellowfin tuna and mango compote.

What impresses Carlyn Berghoff, granddaughter of The Berghoff Restaurant founder and co-author of "The Berghoff Family Cookbook," is how truly versatile cucumbers are.

"They're light, crisp, have nice color," Berghoff says. "Cucumbers have lots of options."

For a refreshing quaff, Berghoff, who lives in Wilmette, suggests them in lemonade or water. Really.

"When I get sick of plain water, I add cucumber," she says. Peel a medium cucumber and add slices to a pitcher of water, then chill it "not more than two hours. It adds nice flavor to your water."

She says this cuke-infused water can also be frozen in ice cube trays and added to lemonade.

For a fancy appetizer or funky cocktail, carve cucumber cups.

In "Slurp: Drinks and Light Fare, All Day, All Night" by Nina Dreyer Hensley, Jim Hensley and Paul Lowe, the authors suggest cutting a cucumber into 2- to 3-inch pieces and hollowing out the top portion with a teaspoon or melon baller.

"Put the cucumber pieces on a plate and fill with vodka or other alcohol. After drinking the vodka, you can eat your glass - not bad!" they write.

Berghoff suggests filling the cucumber cups with whipped Boursin cheese or maybe a creamy shrimp dip.

Berghoff admits cucumbers aren't a super food, like blueberries or pomegranates, but their mild taste and crunch appeal to kids, especially when dredged through ranch dressing.

Composed primarily of water, cucumbers are good sources of vitamins A and C and folic acid and the skin is rich in fiber and holds a variety of minerals, such as silica, which helps strengthen our connective tissues.

The ascorbic acid and caffeic acid in cucumbers prevent water retention, which explains why a few slices placed upon your eyes can relieve swollen eyes or soothe burns and skin irritations.

When shopping for cucumbers, look for firm, well-shaped cucumbers with dark green color that are heavy for their size. Avoid those that look yellow or puffy or have wrinkly tips. Thinner cucumbers generally have fewer seeds.

Stored in the refrigerator, cucumbers should keep for several days. Wrap what you don't use in a plastic bag and use within one or two days.

Dilled Shrimp Cucumber Cup with Boursin Cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

12 large cooked, peeled, and deveined shrimp, split in half lengthwise

2 cucumbers

2 packages (5 ounces each) Boursin cheese or other soft herbed cheese spread

In a medium-size bowl, stir together the olive oil and chopped dill; add the shrimp, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Meanwhile, cut the cucumber widthwise into 24, -inch sections. With a melon baller, scoop out the central seeded area from one side of each section to create a cup.

Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the Boursin cheese to soften it. With a teaspoon, fill each cucumber cup with Boursin cheese; top each with 1 shrimp half. Garnish each cup with a dill sprig, and serve.

Cook's note: Boursin cheese has a smooth and buttery texture, and is versatile to use. The version found in grocery stores is often flavored with herbs, garlic or cracked pepper.

Serves eight.

"The Berghoff Family Cookbook: From Our Table to Yours, Celebrating a Century of Entertaining" by Carlyn Berghoff and Jan Berghoff with Nancy Ross Ryan (2007 Andrews McMeel Publishing, $29.95)

Mediterranean Cucumber Salad

Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Pinch of dried thyme

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salad

1 large cucumber (about 1¼ pounds), peeled and cut into thin diagonal slices

1 carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into thin diagonal slices

1 green onion (white and green parts), cut into thin diagonal slices

8 kalamata olives, pitted and halved lengthwise

1 teaspoon capers, drained

¼ cup (2 ounces) crumbled goat cheese

For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lemon juice, honey, chives, salt, pepper and thyme. Gradually whisk in the canola and olive oils in a slow, steady stream until emulsified.

For the salad: In a large bowl, combine the cucumber, carrot, green onion, olives and capers. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat evenly. Let stand for 15 minutes to let the flavors meld. Divide among 6 small bowls, top each with an equal amount of goat cheese and serve.

Serves six.

Cook's note: Serve with a Sauvignon Blanc.

"Small Plates, Perfect Wines" by Lori Lyn Narlock (2008, Andrews McMeel Publishing, $16.95)

Pita Bread Salad with Cucumbers

1 medium cucumber, peeled and seeded, cut into small dice

Table salt and ground black pepper

4 pita breads, 6-inch size, several days old, torn into -inch pieces

1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved

6 scallions, trimmed and sliced thin, including 2-inches of green

¼ cup minced fresh mint leaves

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro or parsley leaves

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 tablespoons lemon juice from 2 large lemons

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Put cucumber in colander; sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Place weight (such as zipper-lock bag filled with water) over cucumbers; drain to release most of liquid, about 30 minutes. Rinse and pat dry.

Put bread pieces on baking sheet; bake until crisp but not browned, 5-7 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; add cucumber, tomatoes, scallions, and herbs, and toss well. In small bowl, combine oil and juice and salt and pepper to taste. Add to large bowl, toss again, and serve immediately.

Serves six.

America's Test Kitchen

Cucumber Lemondade

1 gallon lemonade fresh or from concentrate

1 large cucumber

Peel cucumber and cut it into small pieces.

Puree with a cup lemonade in blender until smooth.

Strain the cucumber through a sieve into remaining lemonade and stir well. Garnish with cucumber or lemon slice.

Serves 10 to 12.

Cook's note: For an adults-only version, add 1 cup vodka.

Carlyn Berghoff

Cosmic cumcumber wrap

1 ounce lean ground beef

1 tablespoon onion, chopped

1 cup romaine lettuce, shredded

¼ cup fresh tomatoes, diced

¼ cup cucumber, diced

1 (8 inch) whole-wheat tortilla

1 tablespoon fat-free ranch salad dressing

Brown ground beef and onion in skillet over medium heat, drain excess fat. Mix lettuce and tomato together with ground beef mixture.

Chop cucumber and mix with salad dressing.

Place tortilla on a plate and spread with beef mixture. Top with cucumber and salad dressing mixture and roll wrap.

Serves one.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving: 238 calories, 5.4 g fat (1 g saturated) 33 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 13 g protein, 22 mg cholesterol, 373 mg sodium.

Produce for Better Health Foundation and Shoney's, Inc.