Taste the Yucatan
Heaps of habaneros, piles of fragrant limons and fresh-cut banana leaves folded, tied and stacked waist-high fill aisle after aisle at the central market in Merida.
In the building lit with bare light bulbs precariously strung from booth to booth, women in brightly embroidered huilpes peel sour oranges, feed balls of masa into a machine that turns out fresh tortillas and bag freshly ground achiote for shoppers.
Chickens stand around in cages waiting, more or less, to be turned into a pot of spicy sopa de lima while salespeople from nearby shops stop in to snack on deep-fried kibis.
This scene in Merida, the capital of Mexico's Yucatan state, captures the region's unique offerings and causes some culinarians to wonder if Yucatecan cuisine wasn't perhaps the first example of fusion cooking.
"Yucatecan cuisine starts with a Mayan platform with European stuff piled on top," says chef David Sterling, a transplanted New Yorker and founder of Los Dos, a cooking school in the city's historic Colonia Centro.
From the ancient Mayans there's maize, squash, beans (the three seeds planted in the same hole) and chiles, like the ultrahot habanero. European settlers brought pigs, puffed pastry and cheese; later, Lebanese immigrants contributed kibis, fried dumplings made with wheat or ground meat, to the melting pot.
"The Yucatan is a special place; all the geography and culture is very different from the rest of Mexico," says chef Dudley Nieto of Zocalo restaurant in Chicago. "It's the land of the deer, the land of the pheasant … this melting pot created this incredible food."
Queso relleno is a perfect example. An entire ball of Gouda or Edam cheese (from the Dutch) gets hollowed out and filled with picadillo, a mix of chopped meat (Mayan). The ball is wrapped in banana leaves (Mayan) or cheesecloth and steamed in a bain marie (French for water bath) and served with salsa and k'ol blanco (Mayan thickened corn dough).
"The Mayans learned from the Dutch how to make that cheese," Nieto says.
Modern Yucatecan cuisine features many indigenous ingredients and cooking techniques as well. Sterling says a hallmark of the cuisine is its layering of flavors in a single dish: charred chiles or vegetables and spices toasted and ground into rubs, for example.
Recados, spice pastes, are more pungent than moles in central Mexico and feature charred chiles and other toasted ingredients. Available in red, white and black varieties, it could be considered the first convenience food, Sterling adds, explaining that ancient Mayans would make large batches that could keep for months; they pinched off a bit here and there to flavor stews and marinades.
Nieto uses recado blanco (a blend of allspice, clove, pepper and cumin) to flavor his sopa de lima. This popular dish in the Yucatan starts with a bold chicken broth, an array of diced peppers, onions and tomatoes. Slices of limas (limes that are smaller and more sour than the Persian variety common in the U.S.) are added at the end, allowing the hot soup to steam the fruit.
In most restaurants you'll get a side of cebollas encurtidas, red onions pickled in sour orange juice with cloves, allspice, peppercorns, charred garlic and mild chiles.
"Cooks keep big glass jars full of the onions and replenish ingredients as needed," Sterling says. "The garlic and chile may stay in the wonderfully fermenting stew for months."
Cooking in a pibil, a pit lined with hot stones or coals, is a popular method for slow cooking all manner of meats. For cochinita pibil, pork marinated in achiote and sour orange juice gets wrapped in banana leaves and cooked until it falls off the bone.
Look for banana leaves (I've spotted them in the freezer case) and other ingredients in Mexican produce markets.
Yucatecan pantry
Achiote: From a shrub with pink flowers and inedible fruit comes seeds and a natural pigment called annatto. It's the main ingredient in a spice paste called recado rojo.
Allspice: The dried and cured unripe berry from tropical evergreen trees. Ancient Mayans used it in the embalming process; modern cooks use it in pickling spices and meat seasonings.
Chaya: This native shrub of the Yucatan is also known as tree spinach. The raw leaves are toxic, but when cooked it's served as a leafy vegetable, like spinach.
Epazote: Indigenous herb to Mexico with serrated leaves that resemble overgrown spearmint. Strong flavor -- so use in small quantities.
Habanero: Considered to be the world's hottest chile, ranking 250,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Grown commercially only in the Yucatan. Orange ones are more ripe than green.
Naranja agria: Also known as the sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute 2 parts fresh lime juice and 1 part each fresh orange and grapefruit juices.
Oregano Yucateco: Oregano grown on the peninsula. Substitute the Mexican variety, not the Greek type.
X'catik: Taking its name from the Mayan word for blond, this milder pepper is pale, long, thin and pointed. Substitute Italian or banana peppers.
Main squeeze
Don't even think of pulling a bottle of lime juice from your fridge. Yucatecan cuisine, as well as that from Mexico's other regions, relies on fresh citrus juice for flavor.
The best way to extract that juice: a squeezer.
The contraption looks a bit like a garlic press and works in much the same way. Cut the fruit in half along the equator, place it cut-side down in the bowl of the squeezer, hold over a cup a bowl and squeeze the handles together.
Yes, cut-side down. I know the lime half fits so snuggly when placed cut-side up, but you want the juice to fall into the cup, not squirt up into your eyes. You do need some arm strength to work this device, so think of your margarita prep as a mini workout!
My husband and I tested a few and like the Amco Houseworks brand. Turns out the company's right here in Vernon Hills. Anyway, the heavy-duty aluminum gadgets are coated with enamel in colors to match the citrus they work with. Stay away from acrylic models or bargain-shop varieties as my husband broke one handle on the very first lime.
You can find Amco Squeezers in three sizes (lime, lemon, orange) at Sur la Table and other kitchen retailers for $12.95 to $15.95.
Recipes
Cebollas Encurtidas -- Pickled Red Onions
2 pounds medium red onions, thinly sliced and separated into rings
2 cups juice of naranja agria (sour orange or Seville orange), see note
1 tablespoon coarse salt
5 whole cloves
5 whole pimienta gorda de Tabasco (allspice)
1 teaspoon peppercorns, coarsely crushed
1 tablespoon dried or#233;gano Yucateco or Mexican oregano, lightly toasted and ground
1 large chile g#252;ero or any "blond" chile such as yellow Italian or banana pepper, charred
1 large head garlic, charred
Place all ingredients in a large nonreactive bowl. Allow to macerate at room temperature for 1 hour.
Toss and refrigerate. Cebollas encurtidas are best when prepared two to three days before you plan to serve it.
Before serving, allow to return to room temperature.
Serves 10.
Cook's notes: Cebollas encurtidas will keep well under refrigeration for one to two weeks. If you can't find sour oranges, substitute: 1 cup fresh lime juice and #189; cup each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice.
Chef David Sterling, Los Dos, Merida, Mexico
Cochinita Pibil -- Spicy Braised Pork
1 habanero chile (if too spicy or unavailable, substitute jalapeno)
1 cup fresh orange juice
4 heads fresh garlic
2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons kosher salt
5 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cubed
1 cup chopped cilantro
1 Spanish onion, finely diced
Banana leaves
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Mix habanero chile, orange juice, garlic, oregano, and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.
Add the pork to the bowl and combine to well-coat the meat.
Heat banana leaves in a microwave or oven for a minute or so (they're more pliable and easier to work with that way).
Wrap pork mixture in banana leaves, then wrap the leaf pouches in aluminum foil. Place in a baking dish and roast 4 hours.
Allow to cool slightly; remove aluminum foil. Pork should be falling apart and extremely tender. Shred with a fork and garnish with cilantro or onion. Enjoy with warm corn tortillas and a cold Mexican beer.
Serves six to eight.
Chef Mark Mendez, Carnivale, Chicago
Costillas al Carbon Yucatecas -- Grilled Yucatan-style Pork Ribs with Guacasalsa
4 pounds meaty pork ribs
2 tablespoons achiote paste
#188; cup fresh squeezed orange juice
#188; cup fresh squeezed lime juice
4 cloves of garlic, minced
3 large ripe roasted tomatoes
#188; medium white onion, grilled
#189; chile habanero (optional)
#188; cup cilantro, coarsley chopped
Salt to taste
Guacasalsa
2 avocados, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks
#189; white onion, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
8 large tomatillos, quartered
3 serrano chiles, chopped
2 tablespoons lime juice
#190; cup milk salt to taste
Cut the ribs into sections of 4 or 5 ribs each and place in a large pot. Add enough salted water to cover the ribs. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam from the surface. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until nearly cooked, about 35 minutes. Transfer the ribs to a glass bowl.
In a separate bowl, dissolve the achiote paste in the orange and lime juice, stir in the garlic and a good amount of salt. Pour over the ribs, mix well, cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.
Prepare an indirect heat fire in a charcoal grill. Meanwhile roast the tomatoes, onions and habanero chile on the grill. Remove ribs from the marinade, place on the grill rack and grill, turning often until crispy brown, for about 15 minutes.
Combine the tomatoes, onions and habanero chile in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Pour the puree into a saut#233; pan and heat to serving temperature.
Remove the ribs from the grill and cut into 1-rib portions. Add the ribs to the sauce and simmer, uncovered over low heat for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt.
For guacasalsa: In a blender combine all the ingredients and pulse gently to bring to chunky-pourable texture. Have a little cold water ready to adjust consistency. Season with salt.
This should be made an hour or so ahead of time so it can chill well and the flavor can balance
Arrange the ribs on a platter, spoon the sauce over them and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve guacsalsa along with the ribs as a condiment.
Serves six.
Chef Freddy Sanchez, Adobo Grill, for Haas Avocados from Mexico
Sopa de Lima -- Lime Soup
2 tomatoes
Salt and pepper
3 sweet limes
1 guero or chilaca chile, veins and seeds removed
1 habanero chile, veins and seeds removed
2 quarts salpimentado broth
1 turkey or 2 chicken breasts
#189; cup chopped fresh cilantro
#189; cup chopped fresh epazote (wormseed), or about #188; cup dried
6 tortillas
Lemon slices, for serving
Heat oven to 400 degrees and roast the tomatoes. When the skin begins to split and the tomato smokes a bit, pull away the skin. Remove the seeds with the aid of a teaspoon, transfer tomato to blender or food processor; puree and season with salt and pepper.
Peel and section the limes. Toast the chilies in the oven until the skin is a medium brown.
Into a large pot, add the broth, turkey or chicken breasts, lime sections, chiles, tomato puree, cilantro and epazote. When the meat is cooked, remove from the broth and allow to cool. Reduce the heat and allow to simmer.
While the soup boils, cut the tortillas into strips and either fry in a bit of oil to make them crispy or bake in the oven.
When the meat is cool to the touch shred into small strips and add back to the broth. Bring back to a boil.
Add the tortilla strips to the soup just prior to serving. Garnish with lemon slices.
Serves eight to 12.
Adapted from chef Dudley Nieto, Zocalo, Chicago
Salpimentado Broth
4 chicken wings
2 chicken carcasses
2 tablespoons cooking salt
#189; sweet lime (substitute Persian lime if not available)
1 spring fresh mint (or dried equivalent)
8 whole allspice berries
15 black peppercorns
1 tablespoon fresh oregano (or dried equivalent of 1 teaspoon)
1 stick cinnamon
5 whole cloves
2 medium heads of garlic (about 20 average sized cloves)
2 medium yellow onions, peeled, cut and diced
#189; teaspoon cumin seeds
Cheesecloth
Wire bag ties or string
Place the wings and carcasses in 4 quarts cold water. If they are not covered, add water to cover. Season with the salt, more or less depending on your personal taste, and boil. Remove the scum as it forms on the surface of the broth.
For the spices (garlic, peppercorns, allspice, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, and cumin seeds). If you are using dried oregano no need to roast or toast. Toast spices lightly in a toaster oven or regular oven, taking care not to burn them. Toast the garlic with the spices. It is done when the garlic is a light to medium golden color. Or, you can roast the spices in a cast iron skillet. You will know they are done when the cumin seeds begin to pop and a delicious aroma is wafting off them. Take care not to burn or over-roast.
Grind the spices, without the garlic, until you have a medium powder. You can use a spice grinder, I prefer a mortar and pestle. If you are using dried mint you should add it to this spice bag as well. Put into a 4-inch square of doubled cheesecloth and tie off with the bag ties or string.
At any time, add the onions, garlic, spice bag, lime and mint to the broth. Reduce over a low heat to about 10 cups. This should take about 1 hour.
When done, strain the entire mixture through a sieve or cheesecloth. Discard the bones, spice bag vegetables. Cool and skim grease from surface. This can be kept and served as a broth or used for sopa de lima or other soups.
Chef Dudley Nieto, Zocalo, Chicago