Curry flavor at Roselle's Cool Mirchi

A longtime lack of historical intertwining is most likely the reason why the UK-intoned "Do you fancy a curry?" has never entered the suburban vernacular on even a casual basis, let alone a permanent one.

Brits love a good curry, and it's become as natural to them as fish and chips or slippery side streets. Chicago's suburbs, on the other hand, aren't exactly in the running for Indian-cuisine capital of the country.

Thankfully a recent trip to Roselle's own Cool Mirchi proved to us that you don't necessarily need centuries of historical quarrel to enjoy good old-fashioned Indian food.

The scene

Located in a completely unassuming strip mall on Nigere Street, Cool Mirchi isn't shiny or even that big.

In fact, it kind of resembles a diner with its tiled floor, tables lined up in three rows and invisible (but still obviously present) kitchen.

There really isn't any music to speak of, and the authenticity of the place sort of stretches past language barriers between server and guest, so it was with the reassuring clinking of 30-ounce Taj Mahal beer bottles that a whole other rhythm of communication took over.

The food

The name Mirchi comes from the word for "chili," and while there really isn't anything too "cool" about chilies, per se, the owners thought it would be easy enough to remember. Easy? Yes. Hot? Indeed. Hot and spicy are probably two of the first words that pop into your mind upon the mere mention of Indian food, and rightfully so. But rest assured that Cool Mirchi's dishes span Indian cuisine's varied palate: not only killer spicy, but sweet and mild, too.

When considering a nice curry, Cool Mirchi remembers that spices are central: from mint and cumin to curry leaves and black mustard seed.

A myriad of rice dishes are offered, as well as the ever-present vegetables and vegetarian dishes. For obvious cultural reasons, if you want beef you'll have to try another restaurant, but if a nice chicken, lamb or vegetarian dish is what you're craving, this is your table.

We start off with the Paneer Pakora and Chicken 65. The former comprises crispy, gram-flour-coated cottage cheese fritters with a side of mint chutney, while the latter (in its half-order incarnation) is garlic stir-fried chicken with chilies, spring onions and ginger.

All the food is served in beautiful copper dishes and pots, so it was kind of disappointing that our dinner dishes are plastic.

Regardless, the appetizers deliver. The mixture of textures is great, and the two chutneys are excellent for dipping just about anything -- the pakora, the chicken, our fingers, etc.

Entrees Tangdi Kebab and Chicken Tikka are part of the "Tandoor" section of the menu, which literally means "clay oven." Cooking in one of these ovens is a (very) long-standing and cherished process of preparing meat and naan bread to give it a specific smoky taste -- and unbelievable tenderness thanks to soaring temperatures that can easily get on the other side of 600 degrees.

Tangdi Kebab, marinated grain-fed chicken legs with fresh vegetables and (more) mint chutney, is an excellent way to get your tongue pulsing and your hands dirty, while Orange chicken tikka is large all-white meat chunks with spices that practically dance on your palate.

Tandoori dishes are traditionally dry, so you don't need rice with them, but you'll definitely need some naan bread here and, depending on how you ordered your dish (mild to hot, you choose), you may need a glass of water, too.

The naan should typically resemble a fluffier version of pita bread, but the garlic and basil one we were served was particularly flat, giving us the impression that a completely different type of bread was used.

But a dish that definitely does need its own serving of rice (the vegetable biryani goes very well) is the vegetarian Chana Masala, a whole colorful pot of chick peas cooked with onions and tomatoes, which held up quite nicely by a potpourri of tangy spices.

The experience

There's no ceremony here; you'll get courteous, helpful service throughout your meal, even if it's a bit confused at times. Good, generously portioned curry is the mainstay at Cool Mirchi, and for that along you should give it a try. Besides, where else are you going to get all-around approving glances for ordering a 30-ounce Taj Mahal beer?

Address: 814 E. Nerge Road

Town: Roselle

Phone: (630) 529-0999

Web: www.coolmirchi.com

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Mon. to Thurs.; noon to 3 p.m., 6 to 10 p.m. Friday to Sunday.

Meals served: Buffet lunch, dinner

Alcohol/bar: Full bar

Credit Cards: All major

Carryout: Yes

Children's menu: No

Entertainment: No

Outdoor seating: No

Reservations: Yes

Dress: Casual

Parking: Strip mall parking

Average entree price: $8-$12