Give versatile halibut a try

Knock, knock.

Who's there?

Halibut.

Halibut who?

Halibut having me for dinner?

But seriously folks, halibut should be on your plate -- not only because of its mild flavor or because it's one of the fishery management success stories, but because this meaty fish adapts to so many cooking methods that the ways to enjoy it are endless.

"It's a very versatile fish. It can stand up to any way you want to cook it," says chef Mike Burauskas of McCormick & Schmick's in Skokie.

At the restaurant, which also has outposts in Schaumburg, Oak Brook and Chicago, you're likely to find halibut grilled with a squeeze of lemon, pan-seared over sauteed mushrooms with a sauce of blackberries, blueberries and marionberries, or stuffed with Dungeness crab.

"It's the kind of delicious, versatile fish that makes every cook look good," writes Paul Johnson in his 2007 release, "Forever Fish" (Wiley, $34.95).

"It's a real sweet, mild fish, not like salmon that has a strong taste," Burauskas says. "It's a great starter fish for someone who's not a fish lover."

Sustained success

Pacific halibut is the fish we're talking about here. For many years prior to 1970, Johnson writes, unlimited numbers of boats were allowed to catch as much halibut as they could. By 1990, halibut was so overfished that the amount that had been harvested in a year was now being caught over a two-day season.

In 1995 the halibut fishery system was changed to a quota system and fishermen were allowed to fish anytime within an eight-month period, generally March through November. Smaller fish, which would have been kept in the chaotic two-day derby, were thrown back and allowed to grow, and crews had more time to move gear instead of cutting lines and letting the nets tangle in the waters.

Pacific halibut now thrive throughout the North Pacific and Bering Sea, with Southeast Alaska boasting fertile inshore fishing grounds. On the flip side, the Atlantic halibut population has not faired as well and is considered a threatened species, Johnson reports.

There's also California halibut, a fish in season now, that's quite a bit smaller than its North Pacific cousin but holds up to the same cooking methods, says Mark Palicki, vice president of marketing for the Fortune Fish Co. in Bensenville.

California halibut typically weigh 6 to 50 pounds, while the Pacific species can reach 400 pounds or more.

Halibut are not the prettiest of fish, what with those two eyes on top of their flat bodies. Their topsides are a grayish brown, allowing them to blend in with the ocean floor where they spend much of their time, and their bellies are stark white.

"If you see a 400-pound halibut swimming in the water, I think it looks pretty elegant," Burauskas says.

Catch of the day

During halibut season, Palicki says, sales rival that of salmon, the company's most popular fish.

"We sell more salmon all year-round, but when halibut season comes we sell thousands of pounds, 6,000 to 7,000 pounds a week. Sometimes it's over 10,000 pounds," Palicki says.

Burauskas says diners in the opening weeks of halibut season will see high prices on menus. The cost drops a bit as the season progresses.

"The first few weeks of the season, halibut will be more than a prime filet; the first halibut could cost upward of $20 a pound," Burauskas says. Filet, by comparison, runs $17 to $23 a pound.

Palicki says he prefers halibut steaks, which are cut from the tail end of the halibut. The fillets are cut from the main body area, while the cheek comes from, oddly enough, the cheek.

"Halibut cheeks are usually the most tender, most flavorful and most expensive because there are so few available," Burauskas says.

Johnson describes halibut cheeks as resembling a scallop with firm, sweet flesh.

Fresh and frozen

While halibut season starts in a few weeks, frozen halibut is available year-round in the frozen food cases at the grocery store.

Palicki says his company also sells "re-freshed" halibut. He says the whole fish gets frozen at sea and shipped. His company thaws it, then cuts it down for wholesale.

"As long as it's frozen with the bones and skin, it freezes well," Palicki says.

When buying fresh halibut steaks or fillets, Johnson says you should look for fish with a glassy, translucent appearance and a clear-to-light-green-colored flesh. "Super-fresh halibut will show a rainbow sheen of color where the meat has been sliced across the grain," he writes. "Avoid fish with green or yellow discoloration of the fat; chalky, dull flesh lacking in translucency; or yeasty odors."

In the kitchen

Burauskas says he likes cooking halibut because of the higher oil content (it's a fairly good source of omega-3 and rich in B vitamins). "It's a very large-flaked fish," he explains, "not a steak-y fish, like a swordfish. You still have to be careful not to overcook it, but it retains a lot more moisture and stays tender.

At McCormick & Schmick's, he says, chefs like to pair the fish with other ingredients indigenous to the Pacific Northwest, such as wild berries and crab.

Johnson suggests steaming fillets in napa cabbage leaves, then drizzling them with chili oil or grilling them over charcoal with wild mushrooms.

Any way you cook it, you're in for a halibut meal.

Miso-glazed Roasted Alaska Halibut With Broccoli-ginger Slaw

2 tablespoons yellow or white miso (fermented soybean paste)

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon lite soy sauce

1 tablespoon firmly-packed golden brown sugar

½ teaspoon peeled, finely-grated fresh ginger

4 halibut steaks or fillets (4-6 ounces each), fresh, thawed or frozen

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

Slaw

2 teaspoons peeled, finely grated fresh ginger

½ cup fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon lite soy sauce

1 package (12 ounces) broccoli coleslaw

1 cup red seedless grapes, halved

1 cup English cucumber, peeled, seeded, halved and thinly sliced (or sliced celery)

1 medium navel orange, peeled, sectioned and coarsely chopped

½ cup fresh mint leaves, torn

¼ cup toasted chopped peanuts, if desired

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

In small bowl whisk together miso, mirin, soy sauce, brown sugar and ginger until well blended; set aside.

Heat an oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Rinse any ice glaze from frozen halibut under cold water; pat dry with paper towel. Brush both sides of halibut with oil. Place halibut in heated skillet and cook, uncovered, about 4 minutes, until browned. Turn halibut over and sear the other side, about 2 minutes.

Transfer skillet to the oven; bake fish 5 minutes then brush with miso glaze. Bake an additional 6-9 minutes for frozen halibut or 2-5 minutes for fresh/thawed fish. Cook just until fish is opaque throughout.

For the slaw: In a large bowl whisk together ginger, lime juice, sugar, mirin and soy sauce until sugar dissolves. Add the broccoli coleslaw, grapes, cucumber, orange sections, mint and peanuts just before serving; toss gently.

To serve: Divide slaw among four plates. Arrange halibut on top of slaw and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Serves four.

Nutrition values per serving: 420 calories, 13 g fat (2 g saturated) 42 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 36 g protein, 45 mg cholesterol, 645 mg sodium.

Gloria Bradley, Naperville, second place winner in the Alaska Seafood's

"Frozen to Fabulous" recipe contest

Greek-baked Alaska Halibut in a Pouch

4 Alaska Halibut steaks or fillets (4-6 ounces each), fresh, thawed or frozen

4 sheets aluminum foil (12-by-18-inches each)

Greek seasoning or lemon pepper

1 Roma tomato, thinly sliced

½ cup thinly sliced red onion

½ small red bell pepper, thinly sliced

½ small green bell pepper, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons Fumé Blanc or another crisp white wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

1½ teaspoons dry oregano leaves

½ cup crumbled feta cheese

Fresh chopped parsley for garnish

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Rinse any ice glaze from frozen halibut under cold water; pat dry with paper towel. Place the foil sheets, dull side up, on a countertop. Spray foil with cooking spray. Center halibut portions on each sheet of foil and sprinkle fish liberally with seasoning.

In a small bowl, toss together the tomato, onion, peppers, lemon zest and juice, wine, olive oil, oregano and cheese. Divide the topping evenly between the halibut portions; drizzle any remaining juice onto fish.

To seal packets, bring up foil sides and double-fold top and ends. Seal packets well, but leave room for heat circulation inside. Place packets on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven 22-25 minutes for frozen halibut or 12 to 13 minutes for fresh/thawed fish. Cook just until fish is opaque throughout. Carefully open packets at the table and garnish halibut with parsley, if desired.

Serves four.

Cook's note: This dish is also excellent with ½ cup cooked rice placed under each halibut portion; the rice soaks up the excellent juice and flavors as the fish bakes. You may need to increase the cooking time by a couple of minutes with the addition of the rice.

Nutrition values per serving: 318 calories, 15 g fat (4 g saturated), 5 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 39 g protein, 71 mg cholesterol, 333 mg sodium.

Alaska Seafood

Spicy Alaska Halibut Stew

4 halibut steaks or fillets (4 to 6 ounces each), fresh, thawed or frozen

6 ounces bulk mild Italian sausage

1 cup chopped onion

½ cup chopped green pepper

1 can (14 ounces) fat-free chicken broth

1 can (15 ounces) whole kernel corn

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, drained and rinsed

1 can (28 ounces) peeled diced tomatoes

¼-½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon seafood seasoning

½-1 teaspoon dried dill weed

Rinse any ice glaze from frozen halibut under cold water; pat dry with a paper towel. Thaw frozen halibut in microwave for 6-10 minutes on medium-low (30 percent power). Cut halibut into 1-inch pieces.

Brown sausage in large soup pot over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, breaking into chunks. Drain off any grease.

To the pot, add onion, green pepper, chicken broth, corn, black beans, and tomatoes; simmer 10 minutes. Add seasonings and halibut. Simmer an additional 7-10 minutes until halibut is opaque throughout.

Serves four.

Nutrition values per serving: 520 calories, 14 g fat (4 g saturated), 50 g carbohydrates, 12 g fiber, 43 g protein, 69 mg cholesterol, 1,485 mg sodium.

Alaska Seafood

Halibut Baked in Pumpkin Seed Mole

¼ cup unsalted hulled pumpkin seeds (see note)

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

1 pound tomatillos

Pinch of ground cumin

2 serrano chiles

1 small white onion, diced

2 garlic cloves

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

2-3 large romaine lettuce leaves, torn into pieces (about 1 cup)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ cup water

4 halibut fillets (5 ounces each)

Garnishes

1 bunch red radishes, cut into thin slices

Cilantro sprigs

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

For the mole: In a dry medium saute pan or skillet, lightly toast the pumpkin seeds over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until they start to pop; cook for just another minute or two while gently shaking the pan. Do not let them overbrown, or they will taste bitter. Pour the pumpkin seeds into a bowl.

In the same pan, toast the coriander seeds until fragrant, about 3 or 4 minutes. Crush the coriander seeds in a mortar. Let both kinds of seeds cool.

Remove the papery husks from the tomatillos. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the tomatillos for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they change color from bright green to yellow-green.

In a blender or food processor, combine the seeds, tomatillos, cumin, chiles, onion, garlic, cilantro, lettuce, salt and water and blend to a slightly textured puree, adding the water as needed to keep the sauce moving freely.

Pour half the mole into an ovenproof baking dish; place the halibut fillets in the dish and cover with the remaining mole. Bake, uncovered, 15-20 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the fish is almost opaque throughout. Serve garnished with radishes and cilantro sprigs.

Serves four.

Cook's note: Pumpkin seeds are available in natural food or Latin grocery stores (where they are known as pepitas).

Nutrition values per serving: 270 calories, 10 g fat (1.5 g saturated), 11 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 34 g protein, 45 mg cholesterol, 950 mg sodium.

"Fish Forever" by Paul Johnson (2007 Wiley, $34.95)

Lemon Butter Sauce

1 shallot, chopped

1 cup white wine

3 lemons, quartered

½ cup cream

¾ pound butter, cut into 1-inch cubes

In a small sauce pan over medium heat, combine shallot, wine and lemon quarters. When wine is reduced by half, add cream; reduce further then reduce heat to simmer. Slowly add butter cubes to mixture, whisking briskly. Strain mixture and reserve for service later.

Chef Michael Burauskas,

McCormick & Schmick's, Skokie

Roasted Hazelnut Halibut

4 halibut fillets (5 ounces each)

3 ounces olive oil, divided

1 cup toasted hazelnuts, chopped

½ cups white wine

16 black mussels

1 pound baby vegetables, such as carrots, onions, green beans

6 ounces Lemon Butter Sauce (recipe below)

¾-1 pound prepared mashed potatoes

4 springs fresh thyme, for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Moisten halibut with a bit of oil and roll in hazelnuts.

Heat the rest of the oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Place filets into the hot pan and sear for about 1 minute on first side. Flip fillet over and deglaze with white wine, breaking up any toasty bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon; be careful to remove from heat as to avoid flare-ups. Let cook for 1 minute more.

Add vegetables and mussels to the pan and transfer pan to oven for 4 to 5 minutes.

To serve: Place mashed potatoes at center of a round plate and arrange vegetables and mussels around. Place halibut on top of potatoes and garnish with a fresh thyme sprig.

Serves four

Nutrition values per serving: 790 calories, 56 g fat (18 g saturated), 23 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 43 g protein, 120 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium.

Chef Michael Burauskas, McCormick & Schmick's, Skokie