Adobo: Mucho gusto!

I'd been back from a trip to Mexico's Yucatan peninsula less than a week when I had dinner at Adobo Grill in Lombard. I held some skepticism that a restaurant on this side of the border, even an outpost with Adobo Grill's reputation, could match the flavors still fresh in my taste memory.

Adobo Grill bested my expectations -- not only on the plate, but also with its warm atmosphere and friendly service.

Adobo Grill, a Chicago favorite since 2000, opened in Lombard on the west side of Yorktown Center in September.

The restaurant embodies Mexico's warm, vibrant lifestyle, with terra cotta walls and colorful art that doesn't stray into cliches. My party of three was seated in a comfortable, raised booth in the bar. The vibe was lively and the television tuned to basketball. This was a fine atmosphere for three former roommates catching up, but if I'd been there on a date or with family, I'd prefer to be in the more open dining room in front of the built-in clay fireplace.

Executive chef Freddy Sanchez has left the new location in the capable hands of chef de cuisine Athon Angel and his crew. The kitchen turns out superb interpretations of regional Mexican fare with the restaurant's acclaimed guacamole at the top of the list.

The guacamole maker wheels the cart to the table, mashing the avocado, garlic, onion, lime and fresh serranos in a stone molcajete to your specifications. We opted for the medium and enjoyed the heated bite; however, we can't imagine our reactions had we ordered it "hot."

Among the other appetizer options, such as corn-husk-wrapped tamales basted with ancho salsa, baked casseroles called cazuelas (roasted chicken with creamy poblano salsa; baked cheese with corn and poblanos; or chile-rubbed beef tenderloin), gorditas and taquitos, we settled on the alambres. Six skewers (two each) of chicken kissed with tamarind-chipotle salsa, flank steak strips cooked with smoky passila peppers and shrimp brushed with ancho-infused salsa shot up from a corn cob like quills of a porcupine. My group couldn't finish these delicious but filling bites.

Lighter appetites might consider sharing the shrimp ceviche, a classic preparation of citrus "cooked" shrimp with avocados (tilapia and tuna variations available) or sampling the four homemade salsas ranging from the mild pico de gallo to the tear-inducing tomato habanero.

Salads and soups present another stage on which Adobo Grill shines. The jicama and mango salad tossed with romaine, watercress and fresco cheese in a pumpkin seed vinaigrette tries to steal the spotlight from the creamy and piquant corn soup. This yummy pottage should be served in a cup, not a bowl, if diners hope to have room for dinner.

The shredded chicken enchiladas came smothered in a not-too-spicy red mole with the usual refried black beans on the side. The red snapper cooked in a Veracruz-style tomato and olive sauce lacked any dominate flavor punch, but the fish was generous and perfectly cooked and allowed the well-seasoned Mexican rice to step forward.

Poc-chuc ranked as our favorite dish of the evening. The pounded pork chop gets soaked in orange juice, dried chiles, thyme and Mexican oregano, then grilled. One taste of the pork with a forkful of pickled purple onions, a ubiquitous Yucatan condiment, and I was transported back to Merida.

Desserts take on a more modern spin, with an out-of-this-world chocolate tamal. Essentially a ball of molten-centered dark chocolate cake tied candy-style in a corn husk, this treat comes garnished with dried cherries and a refreshing scoop of vanilla ice cream.

The churros plate takes this cinnamon-sprinkled festival favorite off the street and elevates it with a decadent dark chocolate dipping sauce. We had high hopes for the roasted plantain-stuffed crepes garnished with roasted pumpkin seeds and caramel (cajeta), but the dessert failed to dazzle. Other desserts include traditional flan and pastel tres leche (three-milk cake); sampler platters are available.

Dazzling does describe the drinks at Adobo Grill. Specializing in Mexican beers and tequila concoctions, bartenders mix up a cosmopolitan-inspired drink with tequila, mix tequila into minty mojitos and squeeze fresh lime juice into the margaritas. Premium tequilas are available for a slight up-charge. La Pina, with pineapple juice, was a particularly refreshing quaff that stopped short of being too sweet.

Our server was positively wonderful -- friendly without being too familiar -- and knowledgeable about the menu. When I mentioned my recent trip, he even brought out a taste of the banana-leaf-wrapped pibil, a Yucatan staple featured on the lunch menu.

I eagerly await a return trip to Mexico but happily will savor Adobo Grill until that time comes.

Adobo Grill

356 Yorktown Shopping Center, Lombard, (630) 627-9990, www.adobogrill.com/lombard

Cuisine: Contemporary regional Mexican

Setting: Terra cotta walls with colorful accents and clay fireplace

Price range: Appetizers $2.99 to $9.79; soups and salads $5.99 to $6.99; entrees $13.99 to $24.99; desserts $4.50 to $8.99; signature cocktails $6.95 to $8.50

Hours: 3 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 3 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards

Also: Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday; brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday; children's menu, gluten-free menu, gaucamole kits and spice rubs for sale