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Restaurant sampler

Here is a list of restaurants recently reviewed in the Daily Herald. We do not review restaurants we cannot recommend.

African

AFRICAN HARAMBEE, 7537 N. Clark St., Chicago. (773) 764-2200. Most Chicago-area restaurants serving African fare seem bewildering. But this eclectic, pan-African restaurant on the Chicago-Evanston border makes the cuisine accessible. Its name translates to a call for unity, which is reflected in the number of regions from which the restaurant's fare comes. While more detailed menus would be nice, the gracious owner Sisay Abebe offers helpful explanations. Highlights include an original creation called African summer rolls (egg-roll wrappers rolled around a pleasantly seasoned filling of ground beef, chicken, or a lentil, potato and carrot mixture); stews offering a choice of beef, chicken or lamb; and a handful of seafood items and vegetarian options round out the main course list. Entrees range from $10 to $15. Hours: noon to 10:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; noon to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations for six or more. (Reviewed 11-16-07) -- L.Z.

American

ALINEA, 1723 N. Halsted St., Chicago. (312) 867-0110. This year, the James Beard Foundation honored Alinea executive chef/partner Grant Achatz -- who strips ingredients down to their essentials and then re-imagines them -- as the Great Lakes region's best chef. Late last year Gourmet magazine honored his restaurant, a temple of progressive gastronomy, as the United States' top restaurant. Both honors are well-deserved. Don't let the number of courses on the tasting menus daunt you. The courses are intense, singular bites that include vegetable and fish courses then proceed to sweet items, followed by meatier dishes such as Kobe beef and spare ribs, followed by dessert plates, all of which can be accompanied by a selection from Alinea's 800-bottle wine cellar. Twelve-course tasting menu $135; 24-course menu $195; wine pairings additional $90 to $140. Hours: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesday to Friday; 5 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 9-7-07) -- D.P.

THE BLUEBIRD BISTRO & WINEBAR, 1749 N. Damen Ave., Chicago. (773) 486-2473. Catering to everyday folks who appreciate good wine, the Bluebird is an accessible bistro with more than 100 wines and a serious beer selection. Highlights from the small bites menu include flatbread with Serrano ham, manchego and egg; charcuterie-style plates featuring 2-ounce portions of meat and cheese served with bread, pistachios, olives and cornichons; and a baconed pork chop garnished with a dollop of peach chutney among other items. Small plates $4 to $9; entrees from $10 to $19. Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday to Friday; 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 10-5-07) -- J.O.

BOGART'S AT THE PREMIER, Muvico Rosemont 18 Theater, 9701 Bryn Mawr Ave., Rosemont. (847) 447-1040. Even if you're not catching a movie, you might want to stop into this latest addition to the Levy Restaurants chain. The décor is luxurious and the menu consists of updated, upscale bar-and-grill fare. The prices run upscale too, although the portions tend to be quite large. Highlights include: a coneful of mini hot dogs encased in puff pastries; sliders on mini buns that include filet mignon and ahi tuna; a smoky flavored pulled pork sandwich served with caramelized onions and buttermilk marinated fried chicken among other items. Entrees range from $11.95 to $42.95. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10:45 p.m. Friday and Saturday; limited late-night menu. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 12-21-07) -- L.Z.

THE CELLAR BISTRO, 132 N. Hale St., Wheaton. (630) 653-6299. This casually sleek, affordable restaurant dedicates itself equally to wine (an interesting selection that includes bio-dynamic or organic selections) and food. Highlights include: sharable plates of pan-seared crab cakes on greens with a creamy chipotle chili sauce; a "cheddar carousel" featuring a blend of spreadable cheeses; plate-sized pizzas (especially the spinach and mushroom version); and pan-seared bone-in pork chop with tangy mango chutney among other items. Entrees range from $12 to $21. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 12-14-07) -- J.O.

HOLY MACKEREL!, 70 Yorktown Center (Westin Lombard), Lombard. (630) 953-3444. The first offshoot of the Harry Caray's namesake restaurant, Holy Mackerel! boasts a classic seafood menu and top-tier prices. Highlights include a colossal shrimp cocktail; spice-battered popcorn shrimp served with a sweet, creamy coconut sauce; pan-seared wild king salmon served with rock shrimp potato hash and raspberry demi-glace; sake kasu-marinated, lemon-ginger and soy-glazed sea bass; beer-battered fish (cod) and chips; and the house specialties -- cioppino packed with jumbo shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, swordfish and Alaskan king crab legs in tomato broth; and a New England lobster boil among other items. Entrees range from $14.95 to $39.95. Hours: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 11-9-07) -- J.O.

HUNTER'S, 305 W. Main St., St. Charles. (630) 444-1835. Besides being downright chummy, Hunter's serves up cuts of beef that would rival those at a top-tier Chicago steakhouse. Highlights include: a nicely satisfying veal osso buco; ravioli filled with tender pulled meat in a savory brown butter sauce; tender, well-marbled Kobe sirloin; chicken Marsala with risotto and pappardelle; barramundi with soy-miso sauce; and roasted duck breast with mandarin orange sauce and roasted potatoes among other items. Entrees range from $15 to $39. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-24-07) -- J.O.

McCORMICK & SCHMICK'S, 1140 E. Higgins Road, Schaumburg. (847) 517-1616. The arrival of this restaurant (part of a Portland-based chain) offering extensive fresh seafood and lake fish options in a clubby, upscale atmosphere marks the latest Chicago restaurant to migrate to the suburbs. And it's every bit as swank as its urban counterpart. Highlights include albacore tempura roll; melt-in-your-mouth seared sea scallops; generous grilled swordfish atop buttery mashed potatoes; cornmeal-dusted walleye with sweet potato hash; and cashew-crusted tilapia with hot rum butter sauce. Entrees range from $13.95 to $37.95. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Friday; noon to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; dinner: 4 to 11 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday. The bar remains open until midnight, 11 p.m. on Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 10-19-07) -- L.B.

SMOKIN' T'S BAR-B-QUE, Long Grove Commons, 3976 Route 22, Long Grove. (847) 726-0726. This to-go restaurant serves up some real smoky barbecue made with some unique twists. Instead of often dry and leathery beef brisket, Smokin' T's serves smoked short ribs sliced from the bone. The bee if juicy, tender and flavorful. The restaurant also offers delicious half bird chicken with a crackling, crispy skin; meaty, St. Louis-style spareribs with a nice and chewy texture along with savory corn-and-chicken soup, spaetzle-like Pennsylvania Dutch-inspired dumplings and smoky baked beans among other items. Entrees range from $5.95 to $22.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 1-4-08) -- L.Z.

URBAN GRILLE, 524 W. State St., Geneva. (630) 262-0100. This popular eatery serves affordable, upscale food that pulls diners in many directions. Highlights include dynamite fried pickles; shrimp Alyx available in appetizer and entree sizes; burgers (including a blend of sirloin and chuck, turkey, organic veggie, salmon or chicken breast) served a variety of ways in several sizes; and a yummy, smoky club sandwich made from grilled pork tenderloin, roast turkey, bacon, mayonnaise and hard-boiled egg on seven-grain bread among other items. Entrees, burgers and sandwiches range from $8.95 to $35.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 10-12-07) -- J.O.

ZAK'S PLACE, 112 S. Washington St., Hinsdale. (630) 323-9257. A regal, cavernous space, Zak's is a neighborhood place with enough cachet to draw out-of-towners. The restaurant plays it safe with a fancy menu that takes few risks. Highlights include: the hearty trio of kebab appetizers; the namesake salad consisting of smoky, grill romaine lettuce topped with a spicy pink chipotle ranch dressing; Kobe beef carpaccio; sweet squash soup; veal skirt steak with orange-cilantro chimichurri; satisfying bone-in rib-eye; and caramelized, pan-roasted scallops with sweet-tart Key lime among other items. Entrees range from $17 to $39. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Saturday; bar menu available from 3 p.m. to close. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 12-7-07) -- J.O.

Asian

KATY'S DUMPLING HOUSE, 665 N. Cass Ave., Westmont. (630) 323-9393. This low-profile place is a gem that serves up authentic, noodle-based Chinese dishes featuring the namesake "dumplings," chewy, hand-pulled noodles bathed in fragrant sauces. Highlights include: pork and beef, scallion versions; doughy crisp potstickers; chili-flecked Szechwan cold noodles; and dandan noodles in a spicy broth with ground pork and bok choy among other items. Entrée-size soup and stir-fry $4.50 to $6.25. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday to Tuesday. Cash only. (Reviewed 1-11-08) -- J.O.

NOODLES DELIGHT, 853 E. Nerge Road, Roselle, (630) 307-1010, www.noodlesdelight.com. Familiar fare like egg foo yung and chop suey gives way to more exotic dishes like mashed winter melon soup with seafood at this sleek, contemporary dining room in a shopping center at Nerge and Plum Grove roads. Entrees range from $5 to $14.95. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; dinner: 2:30 to 9:15 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 2:30 to 9:45 p.m. Friday and Saturday, noon to 8:45 p.m. Sunday. Accepts major credit cards. (reviewed 11-2-07) -- L.Z.

THALIA SPICE, 833 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago. (312) 226-6020. Comprised of a handful of seats around a sushi bar and a dozen or so tables, this Asian-fusion restaurant -- whose globetrotting menu features Thai, Japanese, Malaysian, Pilipino and Chinese cuisine -- is a gem. Highlights include roti canai (chewy homemade Indian bread sliced into wedges and served with yellow curry); lightly charred skewers of Thai-style grilled pork; marinated beef wrapped in Hawaiian leaves; citrus-flavored chicken tom yum soup and a coconut-based soup loaded with seafood, vegetables, lemongrass, cilantro and galangal; fiery noodles with specks of herbs and green onions; the familial drunken spice noodles with flash-fried veggies and tender beef; plus curry dishes, wraps and rolls among other items. Noodles, curry and rice dishes and entrees range from $6 to $18. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 1-4-08) -- J.O.

Brazilian

ZED451, 801 E. Algonquin Road, Schaumburg. (847) 925-0061. The former traditional Brazilian steakhouse Sal & Carvao, ZED451 offers Brazilian-inspired dining with an exciting selection of seasonal sides. Highlights include an ever-changing selection of breads, soups, salads and sides; a tri-colored corkscrew pasta salad with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, thin-sliced Italian meats and shredded cheese; Granny Smith apple slaw with shredded red and green cabbage and carrots with a tangy dressing; and garlic steak, filet mignon and rosemary-and-thyme-rubbed rump roast among other items. Fixed price $42.50, all-you-can eat. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday; 4:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday; noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 9-28-07) -- D.P.

Eclectic

BETWEEN BOUTIQUE CAFÉ & LOUNGE, 1324 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago. (773) 292-0585. Unassuming from this outside, this Wicker Park destination spot looks like something out of a romance novel with red curtains, private nooks and plush canoodle-worthy seating. The small plates menu features globally inspired comfort foods with Indian, Dutch, Latin and Moroccan influences. Highlights include: chorizo waffles with cumin-dusted chicken and vanilla-saffron cream sauce appetizers; the lobster trifecta including a maki roll with mango rice, curry-infused lobster bisque and a risotto cake with wild mushrooms; duck confit-filled dumplings; and a vegetable torta, fluffy with egg custard among other items. Small plates range from $5 to $18. Hours: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday to Friday; 4 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 9-21-07) -- J.O.

French

DAVID'S BISTRO, 623 N. Wolf Road, Des Plaines. (847) 803-3233. Owner David Maish, a Washburn Trade School alum, hits all the right notes at this pancake house turned French-American bistro that has thrived for 10 years. Highlights include: a glazed pork shank appetizer with bright mango salsa; broiled salmon dusted with Japanese bread crumbs; Creole-rubbed rib-eye with potato and cheddar croquettes; and pork tenderloin accompanied by a combination of diced apples, brown sugar, dates, heavy cream and a handful of Gorgonzola among other items. Entrees range from $19 to $26. Seatings: 4:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 4:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 11-30-07) -- D.P.

OLD TOWN BRASSERIE, 1209 N. Wells St., Chicago. (312) 943-3000. Former Le Francais chef Roland Liccioni, cabaret impressario Bob Djahanguiri and vocalist Nan Mason combine their talents in this combination restaurant and late-night cabaret featuring live music on the weekends. The menu is short and simple, but Liccioni is at the top of his form as reflected in his luscious lobster ravioli; lobster mousse in a wonton wrapper; house-made pates; notable duck consommé; and perfectly cooked Mediterranean sea bass with a creamy sauce served atop wild rice among other items. Entrees range from $20 to $30. Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. weeknights; 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; limited late-night menu available. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations (essential on weekends). (Reviewed 1-11-08) -- L.Z.

Italian

A MANO, 335 N. Dearborn St., Chicago. (312) 629-3500. The names of restaurateur Dan Sachs, chef John Caputo and wine director Brian Duncan are familiar to foodies. The trio has had a hand in several dining spots, the latest of which is A Mano. which offers a trattoria-style menu featuring seasonal, often organic fare ranging from quick bites to full-scale meals to grab-and-go paninis. Highlights include: pesce crudo (the Italian version of sashimi); smoked salmon with mozzarella; a sweet braised boar and raisin-topped pappardelle; pumpkin ravioli; fragrant rosemary-zapped ahi tuna saltimbocca; and slow-cooked Berkshire pork chop with raised endive and apples among other items. Pasta, pizza and entrees range from $7.50 to $39. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Saturday: dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; light menu available between lunch and dinner. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 12-7-07) -- J.O.

BARELLA RISTORANTE, 7723 Rand Road, Palatine. (847) 991-6700. The comfortable space lacks panache, but the food makes up for it, and then some. Highlights include veal-stuffed eggplant rolls with thinly sliced and perfectly cooked eggplant; traditional fare including homemade ravioli and gnocchi; well-executed spaghetti carbonara with generous bits of pancetta cheese clinging to the noodles; pleasing fettuccini with mushrooms featuring sautéed porcini mushrooms and shrimp; and chicken parmesan among other items. Entrees range from $10.95 to $28.95. Hours: 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday; 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 12-28-07) -- D.P.

BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE, The Shops on Butterfield, 330 Yorktown Center, Lombard. (630) 424-1515. Part of an Ohio-based chain, this crowd-pleaser serves gussied-up Northern Italian fare in a swanky setting. Unlike many of the red-sauced Italian spots, this restaurant features plenty of lighter prepared fare, including thinly sliced blackened tuna caponata and grilled sliced beef tenderloin infused with rosemary. Other highlights include: innovative flatbreads like grilled chicken and mushroom with Fontina and Boursin cheeses; garganelli carbonara with wood-grilled chicken; rack of roasted lamb with Marsala sauce; lightly breaded veal Milanese; a prosciutto and fontina-stuffed chicken; Mediterranean penne with mushrooms, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and feta; and mushroom ravioli in creamy Alfredo sauce among other items. Entrees range from $12.95 to $27.50. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-24-07) -- J.O.

CRUST, 2056 W. Division St., Chicago. (773) 235-5511. The area's only certified organic pizza restaurant, Crust has created a niche in a saturated market serving up healthy, mostly locally grown food. The restaurant specializes in individual-sized, wood-oven-fired pizzas, but the concise menu also includes salads and sandwiches. Highlights include: a fine, deceptively simple brown derby salad; a carbonara-inspired flatbread featuring chewy, crunchy crust slathered with béchamel and topped with slab bacon, pea shoots and peas and a runny-centered egg; the wild herb and cheese flatbread with Kalona Cooperative ricotta, provolone, havarti and mozzarella with a hint of roasted garlic; and a German-inspired flammkuchen with caramelized onions, béchamel, caraway seeds, slab bacon and cracked black pepper among other items. Sandwiches and flatbreads range from $8 to $13. Hours: noon to 10 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday; noon to midnight Thursday to Saturday; bar open later Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 9-14-07) -- J.O.

ROSEBUD OLD WORLD ITALIAN, 1370 Bank Drive, Schaumburg. (847) 240-1414. Everybody leaves this restaurant with a doggie bag of classic Italian-American dishes. Part of a mini-chain consisting of half a dozen local offshoots that originated 30 years ago on Chicago's Taylor Street with the Rosebud Restaurant, this latest incarnation serves up huge portions of Italian favorites (sharing is encouraged) in a bustling, noisy atmosphere. Highlights include: an exemplary fish salad combining plump shrimp, baby octopus, rings of squid and morsels of whelk with pickled peppers, lemon and olive oil; signature "square noodle" pasta with light tomato-basil sauce with a dollop of creamy ricotta; and a big, moist and meaty chicken Vesuvio fragrant with garlic and paired with cooked potato wedges among other items. Entrees range from $12.95 to $35.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 8-31-07) -- L.Z.

TESSA'S, 16 W. Jefferson Ave., Naperville. (630) 357-9200. The large (overwhelming even), tried-and-true menu takes familiar fare to delightful (albeit garlicky) heights. Highlights include the red-wine-soaked garlic bread finished with a fresh crackle of sea salt; rustic but upscale main courses including chicken farfalle with garlic-packed basil-pesto cream sauce clinging to piquant cheese-topped bowties; tender veal osso buco, which falls apart at the tap of a fork; apple rosemary-stuffed pork chops; and tomato fondue rigatoni finished with a cheesy, tomato-based cream sauce among other items. Entrees range from $8 to $42. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-17-07) -- J.O.

TIVOLI RISTORANTE, 956 Neltnor Blvd. (Route 59), West Chicago. (630) 957-6500. It's impossible not to think of the Rat Pack dining at this restaurant considering its classic menu, retro charm and headliner Frank D'Rone, who opened for Frank Sinatra in Las Vegas. Highlights include bruschetta with eggplant and capers; baked penne with a sweet, evenly spiced marinara; expertly fried veal parmesan coated in a light breading and smothered under a layer of marinara and mozzarella; parmesan-and-herb-crusted filet; and salmon Vesuvio among other items. Entrees range from $16 to $42. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday; 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 10-26-07) -- D.P.

Japanese

NAOMI SUSHI, 1309 N. Rand Road, Prospect Heights. (847) 590-9722. This satisfying restaurant may not adhere to Japan's strict sushi restaurant standards, but it satisfies nonetheless. Highlights include the chirashi-zushi composed of a beautiful array of fresh raw seafood artfully arranged atop a bowl of vinegared rice; a wide variety of maki that includes combinations not found elsewhere like The Viagra (grilled freshwater eel with avocado, masago and cream cheese), the 911 (jalapenos, tomatoes, crab and spicy tobiko) and the Jackie Chan (one of the few nonseafood items, containing mozzarella, beef rib-eye, garlic and soy sauce). Other options include deep-fried crab puffs served with deliciously gooey miso-paste dip; egg-yolk sauced shrimp; toothsome tonkatsu (a deep-fried pork cutlet clad in extra-crunchy Japanese breadcrumbs); and a superlative grilled sea bass blanketed under a rich and creamy horseradish sauce among other items. Entrees range from $12 to $32. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday; 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 10-19-07) -- L.Z.

TORISHIN, 1584 S. Busse Road, Mount Prospect. (847) 437-4590. Not your typical sushi establishment, the simple but welcoming Torishin serves traditional as well as izakaya-style fare (inexpensive "drinking foods" recalling U.S. "pub grub") favored by Japanese workers who are off the clock. The food is fresh and lovingly prepared, which makes for a loyal clientele. Highlights include the meat-filled, pan-fried gyoza; shrimp and vegetable tempura; masuro shiso age (fresh wedges of tuna wrapped in lightly minty shiso leaf, tempura-battered and fried); savory paper-thin beef sukiyaki served in a cast-iron pot with noodles, tofu, scallions, mushrooms and a star-shaped carrot garnish; and bowl meals including pork cutlet and egg that come with miso soup. Entrees range from $8.50 to $19.90. Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 11-16-07) -- J.O.

Malaysian

PENANG, 1720 W. Algonquin Road, Arlington Heights. (847) 222-1888. Part of an East Coast chain, this restaurant named for one of Malaysia's 13 states specializes in cuisine of that country along with dishes from neighboring Thailand. Indian, Indonesian and Chinese influences figure strongly in the food defined by fresh seasonings of lemongrass, shallots, ginger, galangal, lime, cilantro, garlic, chilies, curry leaves and turmeric. Highlights include appetizers roti canai and roti telur (crepe-like flatbreads served with Malaysian curries); beef rendang, a chunky flank steak stewed until tender and nicely flavored with coconut milk, onion, lemongrass and chilies; flavorful pork chops given a light, tasty, slightly sweet glaze; and outstanding seafood noodles among other items. Entrees range from $8.95 to $24.95. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 9-14-07) -- L.Z.

Mediterranean

AMPHORA, 7547 N. Clark St., Chicago. (773) 262-5767. Great food and a friendly atmosphere characterize this Mediterranean/American Rogers Park restaurant. The menu stretches beyond Greek to include items like grilled kefta (a mixture of ground beef and lamb flavored with onions, garlic, parsley and fresh mint); spreads including taramasalata, hummus and baba ghannouj; Italian-style items; and American dishes like grilled pork chop with garlic mashed potatoes. Highlights include spanakopita (Greek spinach-cheese pie); "flat breads" (think crust pizzas with a range of Mediterranean-style toppings); small plates that include mussels steamed in wine and saffron and cod cakes with lemon-pepper aioli; shrimp de Jonghe; and large plates including beef tenderloin medallions with fresh-cut frites and grilled Atlantic salmon among other items. Entrees range from $13 to $24. Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 11-9-07) -- L.Z.

Mexican

LA CASA DE ISAAC, 431 Temple Ave., Highland Park. (847) 433-5550. Chef Isaac Nava has his name over the door, but this friendly, intimate, moderately priced Mexican restaurant is entirely a family-run affair. Bright flavors characterize the food, the highlights of which include warm tortilla chips served with tangy red salsa; excellent ceviche made with tilapia marinated in lemon with tomato and avocado; a taco trio served in doubled tortillas featuring options of nicely grilled steak, slightly spicy chicken tinga and earthy beef tongue as well as grilled chicken and ground beef picadillo; the house specialty, a hefty portion of enchiladas packed with chicken in a sprightly green tomatillo sauce; and an intensely beefy cecina estilo Huitzuco, a thin-cut, salt-marinated steak served with grilled onions and jalapenos among other items. Entrees range from $4.75 to $16. Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday; one hour after sunset to midnight or later on Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 8-17-07) -- L.Z.

VICTORIA'S MEXICAN GRILL, 410 Robert Parker Coffin Road (Building 42), Long Grove. (847) 634-3772. This casual Mexican-American restaurant serves fresh, homemade fare, lightly seasoned and subtly flavored. Highlights include: flavorful kamus (a nacho variation styled as a "Mexican pizza"); mammoth burritos, including a deep-fried version known as chimichanga; and enchiladas stuffed with a choice of steak, chicken, vegetables or cheese among other items. Entrees range from $6.50 to $13.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 9-21-07) -- L.Z.

Middle Eastern

KABOB.A.LICIOUS, Kingsport Plaza, 937 S. Roselle Road, Schaumburg. (847) 352-2000. With its fresh, tasty, inexpensive Middle-Eastern-inspired food, this quick-service spot is poised for success. Highlights include: seven types of char-grilled kebabs featuring chunks of beef, morsels of lamb steak, cubes of breast chicken, tofu accented with red and green bell peppers or seasoned ground meat (or chicken) molded onto skewers, all of which are available as a sandwich, with a salad, in a double-skewer entrée option or unaccompanied as an add-on to other meals. Sandwiches and entrees range from $2.95 to $12.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 12-14-07) -- L.Z.

Moroccan

ALHAMBRA PALACE, 1240 W. Randolph St., Chicago. (312) 666-9555. Spanning more than 30,000 square feet and with seating for more than 1,000, calling the lavish music venue/banquet facility/restaurant-lounge Alhambra Palace "over the top" is an understatement. The menu includes classics like moist, flavorful falafel served with punchy tahini sauce; super fresh Lebanese salad; mezza platters featuring a sampling of the first course dishes, which are recommended above some of the disappointing entrees. More enjoyable was the kefta kebabs made of highly seasoned ground lamb and served with tomatoes, onions, peppers and rice; braised duck leg paired with pomegranate, pistachios and roasted root vegetable puree; and cumin-rubbed salmon among other items. Entrees range from $17 to $32. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Saturday; dinner 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday to Friday; 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-31-07) -- J.O.

Peruvian

D'CANDELA, 4053 N. Kedzie Ave., Chicago. (773) 478-0819. Offering home-style cooking in simple surroundings, this restaurant offers a small but representative menu devoted to Peru's sophisticated cuisine, which draws upon African and Asian as well as European influences. Highlights include: papa a la huancaina (a boiled potato served chilled under a blanket of smooth spicy cheese sauce); Peruvian-style tamales steamed in banana leaves with bits of chicken, olives and nuts and served with a lively relish; well-seasoned chicken roasted slowly over charcoal; and bistec apanado (breaded fried steak) served with a dollop of huacatay salsa among other items. Entrees range from $5.50 to $14.50. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations for six or more. (Reviewed 11-23-07) -- L.Z.

Polish

PIEROGI PLACE, 1665 Algonquin Road, Rolling Meadows, (847) 734-6811, www.pierogi-place.com. Dumplings rule at this ethnic fast-casual eatery near Wal-Mart. Like its sibling, Pierogi Factory in Chicago, Pierogi Place offers 10 types of savory dumplings served boiled or deep fried. Entrees range from $4.99 to $9.99. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 11-2-07) -- L.Z.

Spanish

MACARENA TAPAS, 618 S. Route 59, Naperville. (630) 420-8995. Under chef John Borras, former student of one of Spain's best chefs, the mostly tapas menu dazzles thanks to a chef who combines unusual flavors in dishes like the mango "caviar," which features fruit with an aspic-like accent. Other highlights include: lomo empuchada made up of paprika-cured pork with a mound of marinated raisins, pine nuts and balsamic glaze; zippy garlic potato salad; the unusual marshmallows a la Napoleon consisting of Manchego crisps sandwiched between two large marshmallows served with balsamic and berry sauces; and chorizo empanadas with roasted pepper aioli among other items. Hot and cold tapas and paella range from $4 to $14. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 11-23-07) -- J.O.

Turkish

CAFÉ ORCHID, 1746 W. Addison St., Chicago. (773) 327-3808. The front of this Lakeview dining spot is off-putting but the back consists of a sweet little dining spot serving Mediterranean specialties at reasonable prices. Menu offerings range from the familiar (falafel and grilled salmon) to the unique (balik sarma which is sardine filets wrapped in grape leaves and alabalik which is a casserole of rainbow trout and mozzarella cheese). Highlights include: an appetizer consisting of five different types of hummus and baba ghannouj which is a spread made from grilled, mashed eggplant; ezme (a fresh, fiery blend of roasted bell and hot peppers, tomatoes, onion, garlic, parsley and chopped walnuts); baked eggplant stuffed with tomatoes and vegetables and topped with mozzarella; fried squid; mini burger patties of well-seasoned lamb and doner kebab (the Turkish version of gyros) among other items. Entrees range from $9.95 to $20.95. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; dinner: 3 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 12-21-07) -- L.Z.

Vietnamese

PHO LE, 551 S. Schmale Road (at Geneva Road), Carol Stream. (630) 588-8299. This casual, inexpensive restaurant serves up excellent chicken wings; crunchy cigar-size egg rolls filled with a savory mixture of ground pork, mushrooms and carrots; beefy noodle soup that's really a meal in a bowl; grilled pork served in rice noodle dishes or over rice and in a combination plate whose thin-cut pork chop is flavored with lemongrass and served over rice among other items. Entrees range from $6 to $25.95. Hours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday and Wednesday to Sunday. Accepts some major credit cards. (Reviewed 10-12-07) -- L.Z.

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