Kudos to the chef
If you traverse Rand Road, chances are you've passed right by Barrella Ristorante without giving the white building with arched windows a second thought. Awkwardly set amid used-car lots and deck contractors, the subtle sign is easy to miss. The next time you're out that way, do yourself a favor and go in.
The physical space lacks panache (it's been a handful of restaurants in the past decade), but the food coming from the kitchen makes up for that and then some.
The dining room is comfortable with upholstered chairs and a handful of cozy booths. The lighting scheme seems unfinished but still provides ample watts for perusing the menu. A small bar separates the dining room from the kitchen.
On the other side of that wall is where chef and owner Nunzia "Nancy" Longobardi creates the familiar cuisine of her native Naples. Longobardi opened Barrella three years ago after 13 years at Ristorante Arenella (just down the road), the restaurant her parents founded; one of her brothers now runs it.
With nephew Alfonzo Longobardi joining her in the kitchen and her daughter Rosaria Miglaiccio taking care of the front of the house, Longobardi orchestrates a warm restaurant experience.
That experience begins with wine and cocktails. Miglaiccio has put together a list of 80-some Italian-food-friendly vintages; a handful of recognized labels are available by the glass.
I'm not sure how Italian martinis are, but since they're the drink of the moment, Barrella has developed some tempting versions such as the cranberry-splashed Pool Side Martini and a creamy tiramisu.
Seafood dominates the appetizer menu with baked or sauteed clams; grilled octopus, calamari or shrimp; and fried calamari overshadowing the bruschetta. The calamari comes dipped in a light breading and is served with a tangy cocktail sauce.
The best appetizer in the house isn't on the menu but rather is offered as a daily special: veal-stuffed eggplant rolls. The eggplant is so thinly sliced and perfectly cooked that it doesn't have that bitterness sometimes associated with the vegetable. Longobardi calls it her most popular dish, and she makes them fresh each day. The seasoned meat doesn't overpower the eggplant wrapper, and a sweet tomato sauce completes this fabulous starter.
Entrees come with a house salad, a pleasant mix of greens with a light vinaigrette, or a hearty minestrone. Barrella also offers a prosciutto and parmesan insalata, a fish salad and a traditional caprese salad. I tried the caprese and was disappointed with the mealy tomatoes. Ordering that salad in December was a severe lapse in judgment on my part; that salad is best enjoyed in summer when basil and tomato are at their peak.
The entrees, however, did not disappoint. The menu includes a variety of traditional fare such as homemade ravioli and gnocchi with tomato sauce as well as updated plates like penne focaccia with pancetta, shallots and roasted peppers.
Longobardi's spaghetti carbonara is well-executed with generous bits of pancetta and cheese clinging to the noodles. Her fettucini with mushrooms is equally pleasing: slices of sauteed porcinis and shrimp bursting from their tails mingling in a cherry tomato sauce. Longobardi uses a light hand with the sauce, believing, as does Mario Batali, that most Americans oversauce their pasta.
The chicken parmesan had plenty of sauce smothering the tender, breaded breasts. Keep the bread basket on the table and grab a piece of herbed focaccia for sopping up all the yummy sauce.
Yet don't eat so much that you don't have room for dessert. It would be a shame to miss the homemade tiramisu -- the finest I've had in quite some time -- or the cannolis or cream puffs. Even the desserts that Longobardi orders out, such as the cocoa-dusted, hazelnut-centered chocolate tartufo, are worth the extra calories.
Our service at Barrella started out slow but got on track once our order was placed. The waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, the meal well-paced, our dishes cleared and water replenished on cue.
We had no trouble snagging a table on a Friday night, but I suspect that will change as more people slow down and take notice of the little white building on Rand Road.
Barrella Ristorante
7723 Rand Road, Palatine, (847) 991-6700, www.barrellaristorante.com
Cuisine: Classic Italian
Setting: Warm, spacious dining room
Price range: Appetizers $8.95 to $13.95; salads $7.95 to $12.95; pasta $10.95 to $26.95; chicken, fish and meat entrees $14.95 to $28.95; desserts $6 to $9; wine by the glass $6 to $12
Hours: 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday; 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards
Also: New Year's Eve package; private parties and catering