Pie is only the beginning of great pumpkin desserts

Walking around the neighborhood tonight you'll see pumpkin in various forms: carved into eerie jack-o-lanterns, etched into artful decorations, painted into cartoonish spooks.

Yet you won't find the favorite of pumpkin forms outside at all, but spiked with cinnamon and clove and plated with a dollop of freshly whipped cream.

While pumpkin pie holds its rightful place as an iconic autumnal dessert, this gourd can be turned into a variety of treats.

Pumpkin primer

Before you pick your recipe, you need to pick your pumpkin. Pumpkins grown for jack-o-lanterns should not be used for culinary purposes outside of roasting the seeds.

Look for sweet varieties that may or may not be the signature orange color.

The pie pumpkin does have a deep orange rind and a tender, flavorful flesh. This is the variety you're most likely to find at the grocery store.

The Cinderella pumpkin is more squat than its pie cousin, with a reddish-orange rind.

The grayish-blue rind of the jarrahdale variety hides a deep orange flesh, according to "For the Love of Pumpkins," a colorful guide produced by Frey Farms in downstate Keenes (www.fortheloveofpumpkins.com).

The peanut pumpkin, an heirloom variety that appears to be covered with peanut-like warts, also works in the kitchen and is used in France for soups, the book says.

Many of today's recipes call for pumpkin puree. Peel and seed the pumpkin and cut it into 1-inch chunks, suggests Elsa Petersen-Schepelern in her posthumously released "Pumpkin Butternut & Squash" (2007 Ryland Peters & Small, $12.95). Boil it in salted water until tender, then drain and pat dry. Then, depending on the desired texture, mash it with a fork or potato masher, or puree it in a food processor.

Alternately, roast the pumpkin cubes in a 400-degree oven for about 10 minutes, then process as desired for a richer, sweeter puree.

The technique preferred by "For the Love of Pumpkins" involves slicing a pumpkin in half at its equator and removing the seeds and pulp. The halves get placed face down in a baking dish and roasted in a 325-degree oven for 45-50 minutes.

A food safety note: Even though you're tossing the rind, you still have to wash it. Many people touched that pumpkin between the field and your counter, and you don't want any bacteria climbing onto the knife and following the blade into the flesh.

Dual personalities

"The very sweetness of pumpkin has given him an identity crisis," writes Petersen-Schepelern. "Is he sweet or savory? The answer is both."

Her book contains several tempting savory recipes, such as pumpkin risotto and roasted pumpkin salad with red onions and lentils, but pumpkin blends so well with spices that lend themselves to sweet preparations.

The pie gets an extra-sweet punch from maple syrup that can cap off a fall menu or Thanksgiving feast. Her pumpkin curd promises a spicy-sweet cousin of tart lemon curd that can sit by itself in tart shells or even combine with cream cheese for pumpkin or nut bread spread or even be worked into a stunning trifle.

Pumpkin Flan With Gingersnap Crust

1 cup granulated sugar

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk

1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk

1 cup canned pure pumpkin

5 large eggs

1 cup gingersnap cookie crumbs (about 24 cookies)

2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Place sugar in small, heavy-duty saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes or until melted and caramel in color. Quickly pour into 9- or 10-inch deep-dish pie plate; swirl around bottom and side to coat.

Place sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, pumpkin and eggs in blender; cover and blend until smooth. Pour over caramel (pie plate will be very full). Place pie plate in large roasting pan; fill pan with water to ¾-inch depth. Carefully place in oven and bake 40-45 minutes or until knife inserted near center comes out almost clean. Remove flan from water; place on wire rack to cool completely.

Combine gingersnap crumbs and butter in medium bowl; pack mixture onto cooled flan (the gingersnap mixture should not be made in advance). Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

To serve: Run knife around edge of dish. Invert serving plate over dish. Turn over; shake gently to release.

Serves eight.

Nutrition values per serving: 490 calories, 15 g fat (8 g saturated), 76 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 12 g protein, 165 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium.

VeryBestBaking.com

Pumpkin Dip

3 ounces reduced-fat or regular cream cheese, softened

¼ cup powdered sugar

½ cup canned pumpkin

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

teaspoon ground nutmeg

Dash of cloves

8 ounces frozen light nondairy whipped topping, thawed

In a large bowl, beat cream cheese and sugar until well-blended. Stir in pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove, mix until well-combined. Fold in whipped topping.

Serve with apple or pear slices, gingersnaps or cinnamon pita chips.

Makes about 2½ cups.

Nutrition values per 2-tablespoon serving (reduced fat cream cheese): 45 calories, 2 g fat (1.5 g saturated), 6 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 1 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 15 mg sodium.

Market Day

Pumpkin Cookies

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

½ cup shortening

1 cup brown sugar

1 cup canned pumpkin

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Icing

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

¼ cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons canned pumpkin

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 pound powdered sugar (about 4 cups)

Orange gel food coloring

Black sprinkles (or other decorations)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

For the cookies: In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pumpkin pie spice. Set aside.

In a second large bowl, combine the shortening and brown sugar. Use an electric mixer to beat until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Add the pumpkin, egg and vanilla, then mix until well-combined.

Add half the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the other half and mix again.

Scoop the dough onto the prepared baking sheets in 1-tablespoon mounds, arranging them 2 inches apart. Bake for about 14 minutes, or until lightly browned at the edges. Midway through baking, rotate the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back.

For the icing: While the cookies bake, in a medium bowl combine the butter and maple syrup. Use an electric mixer to beat until smooth. Add the pumpkin puree, pumpkin pie spice and vanilla. Mix well.

Add the powdered sugar and mix well, beating until fluffy. Add the food coloring and beat until uniform. Set aside.

Once the cookies have baked, cool them on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. Once cool, either pipe or spread the frosting on them and decorate as desired. Cookies should be refrigerated in an airtight container. Allow them to come to room temperature before serving.

Serves 24.

Nutrition values per serving: 230 calories, 8 g fat (3.5 g saturated), 39 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 2 g protein, 20 mg cholesterol, 130 mg sodium.

J.M. Hirsch, Associated Press

Pecan Pumpkin Butter Trifle

1 loaf spiced pecan pumpkin quick bread

2 cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ cup sugar

1 cup pecan pumpkin butter

½ cup maple syrup

¼ cup brandy

¼ cup water

1 cup pecan halves, toasted

Prepare the quick bread batter and bake according to the package instructions. Let cool completely. Cut the bread into 15 slices, each ½-inch thick. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat together the cream, vanilla and sugar on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, fold in the pecan pumpkin butter. Refrigerate until ready to use.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the maple syrup, brandy and water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

To assemble the trifle: Place 3 slices of bread in the bottom of a trifle bowl or deep soufflé dish, cutting the slices in halves and quarters as needed to form a single layer of bread. Using a pastry brush, brush the bread with some of the maple syrup mixture and let it soak in.

Using an offset spatula, spread ¾ to 1 cup of the whipped cream mixture evenly over the bread. Repeat the layering process 3 to 4 times. Garnish the trifle with the pecan halves.

Serves 12 to 14.

Editor's note: Look for spiced pumpkin pecan quick bread mix and pecan pumpkin butter at Williams-Sonoma. Or, use your favorite pumpkin quick bread mix or homemade recipe and substitute plain pumpkin butter.

Nutrition values per serving: 420 calories, 30 g fat (10 g saturated), 31 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 9 g protein, 60 mg cholesterol, 140 mg sodium.

Williams-Sonoma

Pumpkin Pie

1 pound ready-made shortcrust pastry

3 eggs

1 pound canned solid-pack pumpkin or 2 cups cooked puréed pumpkin

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar

½ cup maple syrup

¼ teaspoon salt

teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

teaspoon ground cloves

teaspoon ground ginger

½-1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1¿ cups evaporated milk

Whipped cream or ice cream, to serve

Equipment

2 pie dishes or removable-bottom tart pans, 8-inch diameter greased

A leaf-shaped cookie cutter (optional)

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Put the pastry on a floured surface and roll to about -inch thick. Use to line the dishes or pans, crimping the edges decoratively. If you have enough pastry and a leaf-shaped cookie cutter, you can cut out some leaves and use them to decorate the edges of the pies. Line with waxed paper and dried beans or rice. Bake 12 to 15 minutes, then remove the beans and paper and bake for a further 5 minutes.

Reduce oven to 350 degrees.

Put the eggs, pumpkin, sugar, syrup, salt, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cinnamon and milk in a bowl and beat with an electric beater at high speed for 5 minutes. Pour into the pie shells, then cook in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes. Cool, then serve with cream or ice cream.

Makes 2 pies; serves 16.

Cook's note: Store in the refrigerator if making the day before, then reheat -- it should not be served cold.

Nutrition values per serving: 260 calories, 10 g fat (4.5 g saturated), 39 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 4 g protein, 55 mg cholesterol, 180 mg sodium.

"Pumpkin Butternut & Squash" by Elsa Peterson-Shepelern (2007 Ryland Peters Small, $12.95)

Pumpkin Curd Tartlets

Curd

2 pound pumpkin, halved, seeded, peeled and cut into 1½-inch chunks (to make 2 cups purée)

2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and grated

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime

2 cups preserving sugar

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butler, cut into cubes

4 eggs, beaten

Shells

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and diced

1 egg

1 tablespoon milk

Confectioners' sugar, for dusting (optional)

For the curd: Put the pumpkin in a saucepan, add 1 cup water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until tender. Drain, reserving the liquid. Purée the solids in a blender, adding enough liquid to make the blades run.

Squeeze the grated ginger and reserve the juice; discard the solids. Put the lime zest and juice, ginger juice, pumpkin purée and sugar in a medium saucepan; stir over a gentle heat until the sugar dissolves. Strain into a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Add the butter and stir until melted.

Strain the beaten eggs through a fine strainer into the bowl and stir well. Cook gently, stirring often at the beginning, then continuously at the end until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 30 minutes. Do not let boil or the mixture will curdle. Remove from the heat and pour into warm sterilized preserving jars. Seal and let cool. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

For the tartlet shells: Put the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Put the egg and milk into a small bowl and beat with a fork. Add to the food processor and pulse a few times, then process until the dough forms a ball. Wrap in plastic and chill for 30 minutes or up to one week.

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Knead the chilled pastry briefly to soften, then roll out on a lightly floured surface to about -inch thick. Cut into rounds with a 2-inch cookie cutter, then use to line a 12-cup muffin pan. Prick the bases with a fork and cover the remaining pastry with plastic wrap. Bake about 15 minutes until lightly golden. Remove from the oven, cool in the pan for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Wipe the pan clean and repeat with the remaining pastry.

To serve: Fill each tartlet with a large spoon of pumpkin curd, dust with confectioners' sugar, if using, and serve. Leftover curd makes a marvelous spread on toast for breakfast.

Makes about 3 cups (3 jars), 36 tartlets.

Nutrition values per serving: 100 calories, 7 g fat (4 g saturated), 11 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 2 g protein, 45 mg cholesterol, 75 mg sodium.

"Pumpkin Butternut & Squash" by Elsa Peterson-Shepelern (2007 Ryland Peters Small, $12.95)

Calabaza en Tacha -- Candied Pumpkin

1 cup dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon molasses

1½ cups honey

Zest of 1 orange

Juice of 1 orange

3 cinnamon sticks

5 cloves

4 cloves of allspice

2 quarts of water (8 cups)

1 medium pumpkin, seeded and cut into large pieces (8-10 pieces)

In a medium stockpot, combine brown sugar, molasses, honey, orange zest and juice, cinnamon sticks, cloves, allspice and water. Bring to a boil.

Add pumpkin pieces to pot and simmer for about 1 hour until sauce has reduced by almost half and has become a thick syrup. The pumpkin should be fork tender but not falling apart. Allow to cool and serve.

Serves six to eight.

Nutrition values per serving: 310 calories, 0 fat, 83 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 1 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 0 sodium.

National Honey Board