Rediscovering quinoa -- 'the mother of all grains'

Some 6,000 years ago, quinoa (pronounced keen-wa) grew in the Andean region of South America. The Incas revered the grain -- a seed, really -- as "the mother of all grains."

But when Spanish conquerors ruled the region, they destroyed the crop in an effort to control the native population, and quinoa remained lost for centuries.

Until relatively recently.

In the 1980s, farmers started to re-cultivate it and nutritionists began to study it. What they found has led quinoa to be classified as a "super food" along with blueberries and beans.

Quinoa contains an amino acid called lysine, a compound lacking in most grains, which makes it a complete protein. It's also packed with vitamin B6, thiamin, niacin, potassium, riboflavin, copper, zinc, magnesium and folate. And it doesn't contain gluten, which makes it an option for those with wheat allergies.

Add to that list that it tastes good and is easy to cook and it's no wonder we're seeing quinoa on menus and in the stores.

"I generally find it nutty and slightly crunchy," says Robin Asbell, author of "The New Whole Grains Cookbook" (2007, Chronicle, $19.95). "It's quick -- 15 to 20 minutes; brown rice and barley take 40 minutes. By the time you cut vegetables for a stir fry, you can have the quinoa cooked.

"It's very user-friendly," Asbell says.

At a traditional grocery store you're most likely to find white quinoa (tan to light brown in color) in a box tucked in the natural foods section. Red quinoa has a similar nutrition profile but is harder to find. Look for it on-line from www.quinoa.net or other Internet retailers.

No matter the color, quinoa is nothing if not versatile. It can be processed into flour and used in breads, or cooked in liquid from water and broth to fruit juice and wine.

To cook it, simply rinse the grains in a mesh strainer, then add to boiling liquid. Cover and simmer 10-15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed, then remove from heat and keep covered 5 minutes more. The grains should steam, rather than boil, and be fluffy with a bran halo when done.

"You can use it in salads; the grains cook and have that separateness and it's not bland like pasta that needs a strong vinaigrette to give it flavor," Asbell says.

"It absorbs all the flavors it's cooked with," says chef Mark Mendez of Carnivale, a Chicago restaurant that celebrates Latin American cuisine. On the current menu, Mendez combines quinoa with tomato, cucumber, red onion and cilantro.

"It's like tabbouli, but with a Latin spin," he says.

Mendez says quinoa on the fall menu might morph into a risotto-like dish.

"I'll cook vegetables alongside it and mix them together," Mendez says.

Kelly Boston of Palatine gives quinoa an Italian spin, adding Parmesan cheese, tomatoes and basil, and serves it warm alongside grilled chicken.

Zipora Lerman of Northbrook treats it like rice, browning the grains in a little oil over a low flame, then adding water. Her preparation runs from savory, with fried onions and carrots, to sweet, with brown sugar, chopped apples and dried fruit.

"The kids like it that way," she says, referring to her grandchildren.

Served warm with blueberries and bit of butter it can stand in for oatmeal at the breakfast table.

Cooked quinoa also can be added to soups and stews.

Getting to know quinoa

•There are more than 120 species of the Chenopodium, or Goosefoot, plant, but only three main varieties are cultivated: one with very pale seeds, called the white or sweet variety; a dark red fruited variety called red quinoa; and a black quinoa.

•Before cooking, rinse quinoa to remove the saponin, a bitter, resin-like coating. Some commercial varieties have been pre-rinsed.

•Cook one part quinoa with two parts liquid. For example, 1 cup dry quinoa cooked with 2 cups water yields four servings.

•On the stovetop, bring quinoa and water to a boil, cover and cook 10-15 minutes until the water is absorbed. Sit covered 5 minutes more.

•Quinoa also can be cooked in the microwave or a rice cooker.

Carnivale Summer Quinoa Salad

1 cup quinoa, rinsed several times

2 cups water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ cucumber, diced into small squares

½ red onion, diced small

¼ bunch cilantro, chopped fine

¼ bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped fine

Fresh lime juice, about two limes

2 tablespoons high-quality extra virgin olive oil

Bring water and salt to a boil and add quinoa. Turn heat down to low and cook until all the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork and let sit with the lid on for 5 minutes. Let cool in a mixing bowl.

When quinoa is cool, toss all ingredients together thoroughly and taste for seasoning. Add more salt and pepper as needed.

Serves four to six.

Nutrition values per serving: 160 calories, 6 g fat (0.5 g saturated), 21 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 4 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 400 mg sodium.

Chef Mark Mendez, Carnivale, Chicago

Quinoa and Goat Cheese Salad

2 shallots, minced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ cup quinoa

1 cup vegetable broth, cold

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons soft goat cheese, crumbled

¼ cup toasted pine nuts

1 large apple, cored and diced small

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

1 tablespoon chives, minced

Zest of half an orange or lemon

In a 2-quart sauce pot, sweat shallots in vegetable oil on medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Add quinoa and stir in, lightly toasting for 2 minutes.

Add vegetable stock, bring to a boil, reduce heat, lightly season and simmer about 15 minutes, stirring every 3 or 4 minutes. The quinoa is finished when all the liquid is absorbed, but check to make sure there is no crunch, otherwise, add a little more liquid and cook another couple of minutes. Season to taste, then cool quickly on a lined tray.

When cool, place quinoa in a bowl and fold in goat cheese, pine nuts, apple, cider vinegar, chives, olive oil and orange zest. Adjust seasoning.

Serves eight.

Cook's note: This is a perfect accompaniment served either chilled or at room temperature. Goes great with baked fish or roasted chicken breast.

Nutrition values per serving: 100 calories, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 7 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 2 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 55 mg sodium.

Chef Jeff Mauro, La Pomme Rouge, Chicago

Peruvian Quinoa Shrimp Chicharrones With Green Aji Sauce

Sauce

1 large jalapeno chile, seeded

2 cloves garlic

1 bunch cilantro, cleaned and stemmed (2 cups leaves)

2 tablespoons lime juice

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Shrimp

½ cup red quinoa, rinsed

16 jumbo shrimp or prawns, tails on, deveined

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne

½ cup unbleached white flour

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

For the sauce: In a food processor or blender, finely mince the jalapeno, garlic and cilantro. Add the lime juice and salt, and puree. Drizzle in the olive oil to make a smooth sauce. Reserve.

For the shrimp: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. After rinsing the quinoa, add it to the boiling water and cook for 10 minutes, then drain. Spread the quinoa out on a baking sheet lined with paper towels to dry. It should be quite dry to the touch; pat it with towels if necessary.

Pat the shrimp dry, if damp, and put it in a medium bowl.

In a small bowl, mix the oregano, cumin and cayenne; sprinkle over the shrimp and toss to coat.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. When the oven reaches temperature, place 2 heavy baking pans in for 5 minutes.

Prepare 2 shallow pans, one with the flour, one with the beaten eggs. Dip the shrimp in the flour, then the egg, then the quinoa. Take each baking pan out of the oven and spray liberally with oil, then quickly place the shrimp on the hot pans, keeping them from touching. Spray the coated shrimp with oil, and bake for 5 minutes. Flip the shrimp with tongs and bake for 5 minutes more. Cut one through the thickest park to make sure it's cooked through. The baking time will vary with the size of the shrimp. Serve the shrimp hot with the aji sauce.

Serves four.

Nutrition values per serving: 360 calories, 17 g fat (2.5 g saturated), 40 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 13 g protein, 95 mg cholesterol, 220 mg sodium.

"The New Whole Grains Cookbook" by Robin Asbell (2007 Chronicle $19.95)

Mexican Quinoa With Pepitas and Cilantro

1½ cups water

1 cup quinoa

½ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

1 cup cilantro leaves, washed and dried

2 cloves garlic

½ jalapeno chile

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon lime juice

1 small red bell pepper, chopped

2 scallions, chopped

In a 2-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid, bring the water to a boil.

In a medium bowl, rinse the quinoa with warm water, pour off most of the water, then drain in a fine-mesh strainer. When the water boils, add the quinoa and bring it back to a boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. The water should all be absorbed, and small holes should have formed on the surface of the grain. Let stand, covered for 5 minutes, to finish steaming.

In a large saute pan over high heat, dry-toast the pumpkin seeds. Shaking the pan, move the seeds over the heat until they begin to pop. Remove from the heat and put them into a food processor or blender. Add the cilantro, garlic, jalapeno, salt and cumin and process, scraping the sides down frequently until all the ingredients are well-minced. Gradually add the olive oil and lime juice, processing until smooth.

If serving immediately, stir the cilantro mixture, bell pepper and scallions into the quinoa while still warm. Otherwise, chill the quinoa and add the remaining ingredients when it is cool.

Makes 3½ cups without the vegetables, about 4 servings.

Serving suggestion: Use, before adding the vegetables, in a wrap with roasted yam, zucchini and bell pepper, black beans and shredded cheese.

Nutrition values per serving: 360 calories, 20 g fat (2.5 g saturated), 34 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 12 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 310 mg sodium.

"The New Whole Grains Cookbook" by Robin Asbell (2007, Chronicle $19.95)

Zuppa Florentina

8 large shallots or 1 large onion, chopped (2 cups)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 sprig rosemary

2 large bay leaves

6 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

½ cup quinoa

1 large carrot, chopped

5 ounces salad spinach leaves, chopped

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Grated parmesan cheese for serving, optional

In a large Dutch oven or soup pot, saute the shallots in the olive oil, starting out at medium-high heat and lowering the heat once the shallots have softened. The longer you saute them, the better the flavor will be -- 20-60 minutes is best. You want them to turn a caramel brown and shrink to half their original volume. Add the garlic and saute for just a couple of minutes longer.

Add the rosemary, bay leaves, stock, grain and carrots and bring it to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes. When the grain is tender, remove the bay leaves, stir the spinach into the hot soup, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve in bowls, topped with parmesan, if desired.

Serves four.

Nutrition values per serving: 280 calories, 10 g fat (1.5 g saturated), 34 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 14 g protein, 40 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium.

"The New Whole Grains Cookbook" by Robin Asbell (2007, Chronicle $19.95)