Chef makes transition from Italian to Asian cuisine

As an executive chef with Lettuce Entertain You, Jim Hoveke cooked up top- notch Italian food for his entire culinary career, that is, until he changed gears in order to head up Chicago's Ben Pao. Now, nine years later, Hoveke is at home around Asian cuisine, and has traded in tomatoes and saucepans for a woks and soy sauce.

The Elmwood Park resident and father of two has been in the restaurant business since he was 15 years old and loves the creativity his position allows for keeping his menus fresh and his dishes flavorful.

How did you become interested in cooking? As a child in (northwest suburban) Cary my mother often had me in the kitchen, watching her cook and I picked up a lot from here. She did a lot of baking, though oddly enough, that is one area that is not my strong suit.

Did you attend culinary school? Actually I did not. I went to college for a degree in industrial design. Then the restaurant I was working at went up for sale and I bought it with a friend of mine. I had to leave school to run the place and it was nothing fancy, but I gained a lot of experience.

Where did you learn to cook? I have always worked in restaurants, and just picked up experience and learned from those around me. School is great but I really think that you learn the most from industry experience.

What course did your career take after buying the restaurant? After about five or six years, I sold my portion and went to work at an Italian restaurant where I ended up doing most of the chef's work without the title. I heard Lettuce Entertain You was looking for someone at an Italian restaurant so I applied and got the job at Tucchetti. I've been with Lettuce for 14 years so far and started at Ben Pao about nine years ago.

Tell us about your cooking style. I have always loved Italian cuisine -- it's how I started -- I'm interested in it and love the food, but I have embraced the cuisine at Ben Pao and continue to learn from it and express new ideas in the menus.

What is the best part about being a chef? I like participating in various benefits of special events at Ben Pao. It gives me a chance to get creative and try new things. I was actually at my daughter's kindergarten class the other day. The kids had a blast checking out lotus root, ginger and lemon grass. It was a lot of fun. I also do demos at places like Williams Sonoma, Treasure Island and the Chicago Botanic Garden throughout the year.

What was the transition from Italian to Asian cuisine like? It was very strange to come to Ben Pao. The first time I stepped in to the dry goods room, I probably recognized two items in there. Italian cuisine focuses on sauces that involve a process and take a long time to make. At Ben Pao I had to learn to use a wok and prepare foods that were very fresh and very fast. It was a whole new concept. Woks are so powerful, after awhile it became hard to cook at home without one, I have become so used to it.

What are three ingredients you could not live without when you worked in Italian cuisine? Prior to Ben Pao I'd say tomatoes, garlic and olive oil.

And now? Soy sauce, all sorts of vegetables with different cuts and chicken. I am still in awe at the amount of chicken we sell.

Describe your typical day. I get to the restaurant at about 6:30 a.m. and set up the workload for the day. I also oversee any banquets aside from the usual workload. I usually work about 12 hours a day. I try to get home early to be able to see my wife and kids.

Do your children cook with you? Well they do if you consider making chocolate pudding cooking! My daughter is 5 years old and has an attention span of about five minutes. Anything longer than that is not going to keep her still. But she does have her own chef's coat.

Where is your favorite food destination? I love traveling and San Francisco is a great city to eat. I love the feel of the city and of course, its food. Its proximity to wine country doesn't hurt either.

Tell us a little about this recipe. Mushroom and Eggplant Wontons is an appetizer I offer at banquets and special events, so its great for parties. Be careful to not overcook the ingredients. When you first prepare the filling, don't cook it too long, rather, just enough to blend the flavors a bit. You will be cooking it again after it is rolled.

Mushroom and Eggplant Wontons

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¼ cup minced shallots

½ teaspoon minced garlic

½ teaspoon minced ginger

1 cup Chinese eggplant, chopped into ¼-inch pieces

½ cup shiitake mushrooms, chopped into ¼-inch pieces

½ cup water chestnuts, chopped into ¼-inch pieces

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup water

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

¼ cup minced scallions

Drizzle of sesame oil

1 package gyoza skin (see note)

Heat oil in a wok. Sauté minced shallots for 1 minute until soft. Add minced garlic and ginger; cook for 1 minute. Add diced Chinese eggplant, shiitake mushrooms and diced water chestnuts; sauté a few minutes until soft. Season with salt.

In a small bowl, combine soy sauce, water and hoisin sauce; add to vegetable mixture. Place over minimum heat and toss to coat. Add minced scallions and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from heat. Drizzle with sesame oil and toss. Let cool.

Use teaspoon to place filling into center of a gyoza skin and wrap. Cook either in hot oil like a wonton or steam like a dumpling.

Makes 45-50 pieces.

Editor's note: Look for gyoza skins at an Asian market. These round wrappers are thinner than wonton skins, which can be used as a substitute.

Chef Jim Hoveke, Ben Pao, Chicago