The color, nutrients of spring greens highlight this soup

It's that time of year when the color green takes center stage.

No, we're not talking about the “wearing of the green” or even the drinking of the green (beer). We're talking about the eating of the greens. And, boy, are greens different.

They each have their own flavor profile — and you have to be careful when tossing them into any kind of dish — soup, pasta, casseroles, even smoothies. I was reminded of this the hard way when making this Spring Greens Soup. My first batch included a couple of hands full of baby kale mixed in with spinach, and the result was far too bitter for my taste.

Let's say not all greens are the same.

• Arugula is sharp and bitter with peppery notes. It can substitute for spinach in many recipes, but it definitely is more assertive. It generally is served raw with a vinaigrette, but you can sauté it with garlic and pancetta for an excellent side dish.

• Chard is earthy, a bit salty, and works well with acidic flavors like tomatoes, but it is also great in a hearty stew and most soups.

• Kale is definitely a love/hate proposition. Its sharp, complex and bitter flavor needs a sharp cheese (Parmesan, perhaps) or an acidic fruit like cranberries or oranges to stand up to its flavor. In soup, you should go for something hearty like a bean and sausage soup — something that will give the kale a run for its money.

• Romaine is sweet and a bit earthy. We mostly think of it as a base for salads but don't forget you can grill it, too. And it would be fine in this soup.

• And then there's spinach, my go-to green. It is earthy and acidic and goes in almost any soup, from a light chicken soup to a heartier stew. I generally add a few hands full right at the end of cooking to let it wilt just a tad.

For this soup, I definitely would recommend a gentler mixture of greens, spinach and baby chard, for instance. The soup should be mild and creamy — like a soup smoothie — with the gremolata served on top as the burst of flavor and crunch in the end.

In other words, it should taste like spring in a bowl — mild, green and with a hint of brightness.

• M. Eileen Brown is the Daily Herald's vice president of sales and marketing and an incurable soup-a-holic. She specializes in vegetarian soups and blogs at soupalooza.com/.

Spring Greens Soup

1 cup frozen peas

8 cups assorted spring greens (spinach, arugula and/or baby chard)

1 medium cucumber, halved, seeded and chopped

½ of an avocado, peeled and chopped

1 lemon, zested and juiced

1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup very thin radish matchsticks

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

¼ cup milk or unflavored plant milk

Place peas in a bowl with enough boiling water to cover. Let stand 1 minute; drain well. In a blender combine peas, spring greens, cucumber, avocado, lemon juice and broth. Blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Season with pepper. Cover and chill at least 4 hours.

For gremolata, in a small bowl combine parsley, radishes, chives and the lemon zest. Cover and chill until ready to use.

Before serving, stir the milk into soup. Top servings with gremolata.

Serves 4

Adapted from forksoverknives.com