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This coconut rice with salmon and cilantro sauce deserves a spot in your recipe rotation

One of the most gratifying experiences I can have as a food writer occurs when readers send an email to tell me that a dish I've shared is now part of their regular recipe rotation. I do a little happy dance in my desk chair.

Inevitably, that recipe already is on repeat in my own kitchen because it comes together quickly and is delicious, but also has that little something extra — a surprisingly bold flavor, a touch of elegance or a sauce or component that I find myself carrying over to other dishes.

People who love to cook inevitably talk about food — a lot. If we make something delicious, we have to tell someone about it, to bring them a taste or at least share the recipe.

So, it wasn't surprising that right after I started at The Washington Post in December, my new colleague Olga Massov shared a recipe with me that she frequently served to her family: Coconut Rice With Salmon and Cilantro Sauce from “The Kitchen Shelf” by Rosie Reynolds and Eve O'Sullivan (Phaidon, 2016).

Olga lent me the cookbook, and as I read through the recipe, I thought this little number checks all the boxes. Yes, it has three parts: the rice, the fish and the sauce, but each of those parts is easily executed.

The cookbook's full title includes this phrase: “Take a few pantry essentials, add two ingredients and make everyday eating extraordinary.” The idea is that you use common pantry ingredients with just a couple of fresh additions — in this case cilantro and fish — and you can put a scrumptious meal on the table.

Although it was written four years ago, the cookbook fits in perfectly with the way we are cooking during the pandemic — from our pantries, with minimal extra shopping.

The cookbook authors offer timesaving tips. For example, in this recipe, they suggest two ways to cook the salmon. The faster and easier way is to steam the fillets atop the rice as it cooks. If, however, you prefer a crispy salmon skin, you can allow the rice to cook on its own and pan-fry your salmon.

For me, however, the salmon is the least interesting thing here.

The rice cooked with softened onion, garlic and a pinch of sugar in full-fat coconut milk is creamy and divine on its own. The cilantro sauce — a whole bunch of the herb leaves whirred in a food processor with a syrup made of water, sugar and crushed red pepper flakes — goes over the rice, but I could just eat that up with a spoon.

When I realized that I have now made this dish several times and have made the rice and cilantro sauce to go with other kinds of fish, broiled shrimp and pan-fried skirt steak, I knew it was time to share it with you, too.

Coconut Rice With Salmon and Cilantro Sauce

The rice and sauce are the thing here. Coconut milk, onions and garlic come together to create a creamy, satisfying rice. For the sauce, cilantro and a spicy-sweet syrup are quickly whirred in a food processor. Together, they are sublime. The recipe calls for salmon, but tuna, shrimp, any firm white-fleshed fish or even beef or chicken would taste great with this rice and sauce. Or try it with fried tofu.

Make Ahead: The sauce can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container.

Storage Notes: Leftover salmon and rice can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

For the rice and salmon

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion (about 4 ounces), finely diced

1 clove garlic, finely minced

1½ cups basmati rice, rinsed until the water runs clear

1 (14-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

4 (3- to 4-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets

For the sauce

Scant ½ cup water

1½ tablespoons granulated sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more as needed for serving

1 large bunch fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, coarsely chopped

4 lime wedges, for serving (optional)

Make the rice: In a large lidded skillet or pan, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and just starts to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat it in the oil. Add the coconut milk, then half-fill the empty can with water and add it to the pan. Add the salt and sugar, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low so the mixture is at a simmer and cover the pan.

Cook for 5 minutes, then uncover the pan. Carefully place the salmon fillets on top of the rice, re-cover the pot and cook until the rice is just tender, the salmon cooked, and the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 minutes more. (If the rice is not tender, but the salmon is cooked, remove the fish, re-cover the pot and continue cooking for a few minutes more.)

Make the sauce: While the rice and salmon are cooking, in a small pan over high heat, combine the water, sugar, salt and crushed red pepper and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer the sauce until slightly reduced and syrupy, about 5 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Place the cilantro in a food processor and pulse to chop. Gradually, pour in the syrup and pulse the cilantro until very finely chopped, and the sauce is combined. Taste and adjust the seasonings; the sauce should be slightly sweet, with a hint of heat. Add more crushed red pepper, sugar or salt, as needed.

To serve, transfer the salmon off the rice to a plate. Gently stir the rice and divide the rice across 4 plates. Top with a salmon fillet and drizzle the sauce over. Sprinkle with additional crushed red pepper flakes, if desired, and serve with a wedge of lime, if using.

Alternative for the salmon: If you prefer a pan-seared salmon fillet, cook it separately from the rice. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles when it hits the surface. Add the fillets, skin side up, and cook until just lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the fillets over and reduce the heat to medium. Cook until the salmon looks almost cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes; you can check using the tip of a sharp knife. You should see a slightly darker center. The cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the fillet.

With either fish preparation, if you prefer to serve the salmon without the skin, it is easier to remove it after cooking the fish.

Serves 4

Nutrition | Calories: 619; Total Fat: 30 g; Saturated Fat: 20 g; Cholesterol: 47 mg; Sodium: 332 mg; Carbohydrates: 65 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 6 g; Protein: 24 g.

Adapted from “The Kitchen Shelf” by Rosie Reynolds and Eve O'Sullivan (Phaidon, 2016).

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