Celebrating what's old is new again in America's wine history
We Americans are always on the lookout for something new, American wine drinkers included.
Internationally, wine lovers stick to time-tested labels, produced not far from their front door.
In contrast, America's thirst for experimentation has encouraged world winemakers to flood our retail shelves with a have-it-your-way assortment of new flavors (recently, sweet red and cannabis-infused), colors (orange), regions (Baja), production ("natural"), packaging (cans) and more.
But in our ever-changing world, old might be the new thing.
Not old like Armenian winemaking, circa 4100 BC. (America's first wines were produced in Mexico about 400 years ago.) Not 30-generations old, like Italy's wine family, Frescobaldi. (Wente tops California wine's family tree with five generations; families Concannon, Mondavi and Foppiano ring in at four.)
What's new in American wine is history, the ability to withstand shocks from nature and our fellow man and continue to produce beautifully crafted, vivacious and (relatively) affordable wines that express the unique quality of our American vineyard.
Napa Valley's Beaulieu Vineyard (pronounced boh-LEE-YEUX; also known as BV) is a cornerstone of American wine history. Since 1900, BV has pioneered innovation in the vineyard and winery, advancing winegrowing in Napa and the world.
Founder Georges de Latour first gained attention by importing phylloxera-resistant rootstock to combat the vineyard scourge devastating Napa. In 1938, he hired as winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff, a young Russian viticulturalist, who pioneered techniques that are essential today, including sound hygiene, cold fermentation, malolactic fermentation and small oak barrel maturation. Tchelistcheff championed cabernet sauvignon and in 1940, produced "Georges de Latour Private Reserve cabernet sauvignon," still considered one of the world's greatest reds.
While Georges de Latour justifiably garners $100 per bottle and up, "Ross's Choice," Tapestry and other selections exemplify BV's heritage, with approachable pricing.
Beaulieu Vineyards, Tapestry Reserve, 2015: The classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon (here, 75%), with merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, selected from blocks in Rutherford, Stags Leap District, Atlas Peak and Coombsville - regions now rivaling France's greatest vineyards. Each variety vinified separately, capturing the best qualities of this exceptional vintage and terroir. Inky garnet in color, with ripe fruit, green tobacco and black spice aromas jumping from the glass at first pour. In the mouth, the wine is plush and powerful, with perfectly ripe plum and berry flavors integrated with toffee and toasty spice from aging in 60% new oak barrels. Long, evocative finish fills the palates with clouds of flavor. The wine cries for fine beef and lamb, but was also delish with my Mushroom Ragout. Nationally priced at $65; check with your local merchant.
Oregon's Willamette Valley wine history began in 1965, well after Napa, but this feisty community has prospered over a finicky climate, persnickety grape and recently, a Samson-versus-Goliath struggle to protect its name, all of which has garnered international investment, acclaim and - in 2016 - a $3 billion annual contribution to Oregon's economy.
Now, the second-generation of three Willamette founding families have joined expertise and vineyards, to produce a single expression of their region's unique terroir.
Second Generation Vineyards (2GV): The capsule is a pain in the neck and the wine takes 30 minutes in the glass to express itself, but patience is rewarded with teasing plumpness, earthiness vying for attention over red and black fruits, all integrated into long and lean structure. One hundred percent Pinot Noir, it's blended from the finest sites of Elk Cove, Ponzi and Sokol-Blosser vineyards. Perfect for two of our country's few regional pairings, Columbia River salmon or Oregon truffles, or close approximations thereof. Only 300 cases were produced. It's $100 per bottle, available through Ponzi Vineyards website: www.ponzivineyards.com/product/2GV-Pinot-Noir.
In 1945, my parents honeymooned in wine country and met second-generation Ernest and Herman Wente, who - among other achievements - bucked millennia of tradition and released the first widely distributed wine named for a grape variety. (How's that catching on, huh?) In the 1980s, I joined Andre Tchelistcheff and his wife for a quiet dinner in wine country; I still regard these hours as the apex of my life in wine.
It's the rare opportunity we all have: to drink the wine, visit the properties and attend promotional events to meet the folks (or not too many generations removed) who literally laid the roots of American wine and its new history, which will comprise key chapters in the annals of world wine for centuries to come.
• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.
Ross' choice
Wine Name: Cabernet Sauvignon
Producer: Beaulieu Vineyard (BV)
Region: Napa Valley
Vintage: 2016
Availability: Widely. National pricing is $33, but check with your local merchant.
Distributed by: Breakthru Beverage, Cicero
Tasting Notes: In its second century, BV continues to define Napa Cab with this elegant, balanced, refreshing and remarkably affordable wine. 20-year BV Winemaker Jeffrey Stambor has full command of his vineyards' potential, blending 78% Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah, Petite Sirah and other grapes for silky tannin, firm acidity and opulent flavors of ripe berries, green herbs, cocoa and exotic spice. Be aware, the wine goes down much easier than its 14.8% alcohol suggests. Enjoy a glass of American wine history with red meats, the richest poultry and veggie dishes.