Five wines to help you start the new year right
We start the new year with five outstanding wines that highlight the diversity and excitement of the bottles we have to choose from. These include two from a producer on a small island in the Bay of Naples, examples from the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux that punch above their price, and a delightful riesling from one of the pioneers of the Finger Lakes.
Ratings: Three stars: Exceptional; Two stars: Excellent; One star: Very good. Note: Prices are approximate.
Chateau Tournefeuille Lalande-de-Pomerol 2016
Three stars
Bordeaux, France, $33
Here's a top-notch Right Bank bordeaux at a very reasonable price for the quality. The blend is 70% merlot, 30% cabernet franc. It offers classic Bordeaux flavors of black currant, plum, white pepper and graphite, with a rich, mouth-filling texture. Absolutely delicious. Alcohol by volume: 13.5%.
Le Clos de Caillou, Le Caillou Cotes-du-Rhone 2018
Three stars
Rhone Valley, France, $22
Although this wine comes from the humble Cotes-du-Rhone appellation, it has the pedigree and quality of a Rhone cru or a chateauneuf-du-pape. Rich, lush and bursting with dark fruit flavors, it carries savory notes of forest leaves and mushrooms. An herbal finish provides a lovely grace note. Farmed biodynamically. ABV: 14%.
Cenatiempo Per' 'E Palummo 2018
Three stars
Ischia, Italy, $24
The name for this grape translates to "foot of the dove," and whoever came up with that must have been even more entranced than I was when I sipped this beguiling, savory red wine. It reminded me of a top Loire cabernet franc, with leathery, herbal and meaty flavors, and hints of leather, musk, sage, boxwood and rosemary. Imagine sitting in an herb garden on a warm evening at twilight, when everything around you starts to sing. ABV: 13%.
Cenatiempo Biancolella 2018
Three stars
Ischia, Italy, $24
Cenatiempo is a highly allocated winery from Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples. Biancolella is one of Italy's amazingly diverse white grape varieties. This wine has amazing aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and jasmine. There's a fresh salinity, reflecting the sea, perhaps, along with nice texture and concentration. ABV: 12.5%.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling 2017
Two-and-a-half stars
Finger Lakes, New York, $18
Konstantin Frank was a pioneer in growing European vinifera grape varieties in New York's Finger Lakes region. The winery is now owned by his grandson, Fred Frank, and continues to set a high standard in what is now a crowded field. This riesling is just sweet enough to give it fruity lushness to match a wide variety of foods, including spicy dishes; its acidity keeps it balanced. Finger Lakes semi-dry riesling reminds me of Sprite with a kick. That's a simplification, of course, but the lemon-lime citrus flavors are apparent here. ABV: 12%.