Leaky doors cost money
Q. Both our front (wood) and back (steel) doors look bad and are leaky. Are there many simple DIY efficiency improvements that are effective and low-cost?
A. Older, well-used doors are actually leakier than they appear. People normally don't sit close to a door, so drafts have to be pretty bad before being noticed. On a windy day, move a stick of incense around each door edge and observe the smoke trail to find leaks.
Another method is to have a helper shine a flashlight from outdoors around the edge at night and look for light coming through. Leaky spots also allow more road noise to come through so listen for the noisiest spots around the edge.
Leaky doors cost money in two ways. First, the cold air leaking in makes your heat pump run longer to keep your house warm. Second, the draft, even if you do not notice it, makes you feel chilly. When feeling chilly, people often set the furnace thermostat higher which wastes even more energy.
There are ways to improve the efficiency of old doors, but don't immediately eliminate the possibility of installing a new one. Prices for some well-insulated steel and fiberglass doors, especially one for the back door without glass, are very reasonable. A prehung one is not difficult to install yourself. They are efficient, easy to install and prices on some returned items at home centers are deeply discounted.
Check for rotten wood by probing visually bad spots on the wood door with a screwdriver. If a spot is more than one-quarter inch deep, it will be difficult to repair with wood filler. Place a long straight edge on the door to check for warpage. If the warpage is more than one-half inch across the door, installing new weatherstripping probably won't seal it.
Most metal doors have steel skins, so rust is a common problem, but it can be repaired. Rainwater often gets trapped at the bottom by the weatherstripping. Small rust holes can be filled with auto body compound. Drill several one-eighth-inch drain holes in the weatherstripping so no more water gets trapped.
On the wood door, the weatherstripping may become compressed over time. Push the door very tightly closed to see if this helps. Install closed-cell foam weatherstripping if it needs to be replaced. Metal doors use magnetic weatherstripping, so compression is not often a problem.
To fix leaks for a wood door, reposition the latch plate. Remove some wood in the door frame and move the plate back up to one-quarter inch maximum. Drill out the old screw holes and fill them with a dowel rod. Drill new screw holes to secure the latch plate in its new position. Installing a stepped latch plate is another option to better compress the weatherstripping.
Check the condition of the hinges and replace them if needed. If the hinges and pins get worn, the door will not hang square in the opening, and therefore, will not seal well.
There are many different sizes of hinges so take an old one along to the store and get an exact match. Don't just buy the cheapest ones because there really is a range of quality. A good-quality spring hinge is a good choice, but each may cost $15 or more.
It is almost certain the seal on the bottom of the doors against the floor threshold is worn. If it is not torn, adjust the floor threshold higher. There are several height adjustment screws across the threshold. They may be filled in with dirt from years of use, so poke around to find them. If the seal itself is bad, there are many generic replacement seals you can install.
Another option is an add-on retractable threshold seal which is effective with carpeting by the door. It is mounted on the inside surface of the lower door edge. When the door starts to open, a pin against the door frame is released and the seal automatically lifts to clear the carpeting. It is easy to install and adjust.
The following companies offer door improvement products: Duck Brand, (800) 321-0253, www.duckbrand.com; M-D Building Products, (800) 654-8454, www.mdteam.com; Pemko Manufacturing, (800) 283-9988, www.pemko.com; and Thermwell, (800) 526-5265, www.frostking.com.
Q. We have sheet tile flooring in our kitchen. The kids dragged a chair across it and gouged it badly. What is the best way to fix this spot without its being noticeable?
A. Take a sharp utility knife and cut out an area along the tile pattern lines so that it will be less noticeable. Heat this damaged piece with a hair dryer and carefully pry it out. Scrape out the old adhesive.
Use the damaged piece as a template to cut a new replacement piece. Apply floor tile adhesive with a notched trowel for even coverage. Wait until the adhesive becomes tacky and then press the new piece in place.
• Write to James Dulley at 6906 Royalgreen Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45244 or visit dulley.com.